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Those who know me well know just how much I adore the wines, the family, and the place. There’s a certain magic at Keller, one that many fellow Riesling-lovers can attest to. But this bottle, this 17’ Kirchspiel, holds a little more weight than most for me. Not just because it’s an extraordinary vintage, though it most certainly is. But because I was there working harvest that year
Sorting the Kirchspiel fruit was relentless work. Many passes. No shortcuts. We removed anything botrytised and hail-afflicted, every last questionable berry. Pressing was just as meticulous: whole bunch, long and slow cycles, gentle pressures (never exceeding 1.8 bar) to keep the botrytis influence to an absolute minimum. It was all about purity. And purity is exactly what defines the 17’ Kirchspiel.
I’ve had this wine a number of times, but this bottle, slow-oxed since lunch, was something else. A near-perfect showing. Lemon, grapefruit, flint, and white floral, all wrapped up in a saline, chalk-laden precision that feels like liquid geology. Every element in place, nothing extraneous. A dense, electric core of energy, though slightly quieter than its rowdier siblings. The structure is packed, tightly coiled, and unmistakably Kirchspiel.
Effortless energy, but born from backbreaking work. Very worth it. — 3 days ago
Delicate nose of white flowers, stone fruit, hint of petrol; palate of peach, apricot, honey; classic; more concentration and complexity would push it higher, but it is enjoyable — a month ago
Aaron Tan
Those who know me well know just how much I adore the wines, the family, and the place. There’s a certain magic at Keller, one that many fellow Riesling-lovers can attest to. But this bottle, this 17’ Kirchspiel, holds a little more weight than most for me. Not just because it’s an extraordinary vintage, though it most certainly is. But because I was there working harvest that year
Sorting the Kirchspiel fruit was relentless work. Many passes. No shortcuts. We removed anything botrytised and hail-afflicted, every last questionable berry. Pressing was just as meticulous: whole bunch, long and slow cycles, gentle pressures (never exceeding 1.8 bar) to keep the botrytis influence to an absolute minimum. It was all about purity. And purity is exactly what defines the 17’ Kirchspiel.
I’ve had this wine a number of times, but this bottle, slow-oxed since lunch, was something else. A near-perfect showing. Lemon, grapefruit, flint, and white floral, all wrapped up in a saline, chalk-laden precision that feels like liquid geology. Every element in place, nothing extraneous. A dense, electric core of energy, though slightly quieter than its rowdier siblings. The structure is packed, tightly coiled, and unmistakably Kirchspiel.
Effortless energy, but born from backbreaking work. Very worth it. — 3 days ago