Haze Of The Air

Château Mouton Rothschild

Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend 1990

Part of a Chateau Mouton Rothschild vertical from 1988-1990. This was my second time enjoying the 1990 vintage and, much like my previous experience, this was rather quiet early and then came on with the business, late. As before, a mix of red and black cassis, ripe and desiccated cherries, tobacco leaf, cedar box, old leather, damp earth, some mushrooms and baking spices. After two similar experiences, I believe this vintage needs a lot of patience and a lot of air to wake up. Without either, it will be misunderstood. Drink now through 2040+ — 2 months ago

Jan, Ira and 14 others liked this

Tenuta Monolo

Riserva Bramaterra Nebbiolo Blend 2003

Lyle Fass
9.6

My 2nd bottle of the 2003 and wow this is a stunner. Warmer vintages in cooler wine regions is where it’s at. Glorious nose of mid season cherry, sour cherry and more! Smoke, tar, tobacco, cigar box. Unreal minerality and a distinctive earthiness. Just gorgeous. So expansive and detailed. Palate is so so juicy and fresh with unreal acidity that buffets the incomprehensible juicy cherry and meaty fruit. Getting Gevrey vibes here. Amazing purity and freshness and just super clean. Opulent with so much energy and depth. Really covers the inner mouth with so much sexy fruit. The sexiest one yet but still has the house style. I’ve never had a wine where a warm vintage has elevated it this much. Genius and stunning. Nose starts with some oolong tea now after air. Palate has mid season juicy cherries that are in such abundance. It’s so well made, so balanced and just off the charts pure with velvety and sweet tannins and just such insane fruit capture. — 5 months ago

Erik, Ira and 12 others liked this

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave

Hermitage Syrah 2001

This bottle was a library release from the Chave cellars. Decanted about an hour prior to service (but could have benefited from more time) and enjoyed over the course of several hours. The 2001 Chave rouge pours a deep ruby/purple color with a near opaque core; medium+ viscosity with significant staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of charred blueberry pie, mushrooms, scorched earth, grilled meat, coffee, black pepper and soft baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and super complex. With more and more air, this really came into its own. Totally Chave. Totally Hermitage. Totally awesome. Drink now with a little patience and through 2041. — 6 months ago

Severn, Shay and 12 others liked this
Lyle Fass

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94 is my fave old one that is affordable. Also 96.
Jay Kline

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@Lyle Fass I have not had an opportunity to enjoy either but I hope that changes!
Lyle Fass

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@Jay Kline less ripe years pre 2004 I adore. After 2004 I find the wines are more forced, modern and “made.”

Weingut Keller

Abts E de Riesling 2017

One of the best evenings of wine I’ve had this year, and it was just focused on this duo. Opened as inspiration for this year’s red pick at Miao Lu (a name to remember for those reading. I’ll say it here first - some of the best Pinot’s and Chard’s in the world will be coming out of this project high up in Yunnan!), and they both gave great context to the task.

When I harvested with Klaus-Peter in 2017, the vineyards bore the scars of hail, every last one of them. The damage was manifest in what we came to call "hail berries" (misshapen berries). To my untrained palate, they tasted perfectly fine. Naturally, I asked KP why we were discarding them, and his response, while not entirely unexpected, was still astonishing (paraphrasing of course): "I don't need to know precisely what they do," he said, "but if there's even a chance they might diminish the wine by 1%, they're gone. And these? They look capable of much worse."

That unyielding spirit of his was, I must admit, my torment at Abtserde, the vineyard hit hardest by the hail. We spent an entire day sorting and picking a single row - granted, the rows were long, but the pace was glacial. The true enemy, though, wasn’t the relentless sorting, but the wasps. Those little demons made an already grueling task even more daunting, dodging their stings as we plucked berries one by one, like selecting pearls from a troubled sea. What we ended up with were, quite literally, tiny gems - "caviar" berries of purity. By day’s end, the sight was something to behold. Despite the torment, the hard work was unquestionably worth it. The 17’ Abtserde is my wine of the vintage.

I’ve had the 17’ Abtserde on numerous occasions but this takes the cake as the best (note to self: best to decant a young Abtserde hard). It is a marvel of purity and depth, with its nose evoking Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, and flint. These aromas reappear on the palate with a nearly overwhelming intensity, blending piquant brightness and mineral-rich concentration. With more air, a floral, bittersweet herbal note very typical of the vineyard appears (smells like the place even). As the evening unfolded, the wine seemed to grow younger, each glass more lively than the last. The final sip was almost painfully austere, like drinking pure limestone, its explosive palate held together by sharp acidity and a palpable, phenolic grip. The finish seemed endless. One of my best Keller experiences this year.
— 3 months ago

Lyle, Andrew and 12 others liked this
Ira Schwartz

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@Aaron Tan A very enjoyable read.
Tom Casagrande

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Great story and note!

Martin Woods

Jessie James Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021

Excellent really. Sweet Pinot Fruit. Cherry 🍒 mostly. Just 13.5%. Very refined. Like a Burgundy at a much better price point. Planted in 1996 to Pommard, Wadenswil and 114. Dry farmed! Needs at least 2 hours of air. Teanotes, … fresh! In my book one of the top 10 Pinots in the US. — 9 months ago

Grant, Lyle and 4 others liked this
Lyle Fass

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sick wine

Domaine François Raveneau

Valmur Chablis Grand Cru Chardonnay

Super fresh and precise on the nose. Packed with minerals- lime, slate, salinity. Quite a glycerin mouthfeel. Super fresh and compact. All the transparency of 2011 and Raveneau. Needs time in the glass to open up. Still a puppy, but spectacular and all in place. Benefitting from air. — 3 years ago

Walker StrangisTony GarciaDavid Schachter
with Walker, Tony and 1 other
Ira, Severn and 12 others liked this

R. López de Heredia

Viña Tondonia Reserva Rioja Tempranillo Blend 2011

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of three days. Consistently enjoyable throughout, but best after several hours of air and through Day 3. The wine pours, a deep garnet color with a near opaque core; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. No signs of sediment. On the nose, the wine is developing with expressive notes of ripe and dried cherry, plums, toasted coconut, fresh dill, cedar chest, and soft baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose however, the fruit is much more tart. The finish is long and tangy. A textbook example of old-school Rioja. Lovely. Drink now with patience and through 2036. — 5 months ago

Andrew, David and 18 others liked this
Ceccherini Cristiano

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I always wish i have more Lopez de Heredia in my cellar evertime i look at your reviews. Cheers!
Jay Kline

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@Ceccherini Cristiano lol…I think the same thing. I certainly have some in the cellar but not nearly as deep as I would like. I guess there’s always time, right? 🤣 Regardless, thank you.
Ceccherini Cristiano

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@Jay Kline there's always time, agreed!
You are most welcome

Château Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre

Margaux Red Bordeaux Blend 1998

Nose: dark and serious with major tobacco. Hints of vegetal tones. Lilacs as it opens.

Palate: still fresh. Tobacco. Dense dark berry fruit.

Like a lecture on Hegel. Very serious.

As this opens more delicious and less ungiving. Beautiful silky texture.

3 hours in getting crazy. Nose has these gorgeous dense florals. So complex. Pink roses. This is why we drink wine. Still so fresh on the palate. Long.

12.5%

Fass selections.

— 6 months ago

Zach, Andrew and 1 other liked this

Château Haut-Brion

Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 1955

Dark scarlet color with translucent light reddish rims. Old wine nose. Notes of black and red fruit, gravel, barnyard floor, old leather and some old desk wood. Fruit is a bit faded but this has plenty of life with decent acidity and a nice structure. Got better with air and opened up nicely. Better than the last bottle of this lot, despite being a more ragged looking bottle. — 3 years ago

Eric, Brent and 27 others liked this

Dominus Estate

Dominus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2002

Needed quite a bit of air. Palate initially leaner / lighter — filled out after about 1.5 hours. Would definitely try again. — 4 years ago