Jay Kline

9.0

Popped and poured; no formal notes. This is Vincent Couche’s multi-vintage cuvée, made in the traditional Champagne method but uses Pinot Noir from Molesme and Chardonnay from 1er-cru Chablis. It’s aged in a combination of amphora and oak. As you might expect, this is bright and laser cut with lemon and lime citrus. Loads of minerals. Great acid. Nerdy and makes for a great aperitif. — 9 hours ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Apropos, the vines for “La Chapelle” are adjacent to the chapel perched at the very top of the Mont Brouilly where it is quite dry and the soil is very poor. The vineyard is also remarkably steep making manual harvest essential.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of three days. Fairly consistent throughout but I felt it was most enjoyable on Day 2 and 3. The 2022 “La Chapelle” pours a deep ruby/purple color; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is youthful and fresh with beautiful notes of tart blackberries, red plum, wet stone, a combination of red and purple flowers, licorice, dried green herbs, some wood varnish. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+ and has a stiff spine of minerals. This is a cerebral wine compared to “Godefroy” (which is almost quaffable in comparison). Drinking well now to enjoy its freshness but will undoubtedly drink well through 2037+. Thanks for the assist @Lyle Fass — 5 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

This is the Sezzana “10 Year Release” which was held in bottle at the cellars of Casanova della Spinetta until, you guessed it, 2016. It’s a blend of Sangiovese and a splash of Colorino.

Poured into a decanter prior to dinner and enjoyed over the course of a couple of hours. The 2006 pours a deep garnet color with medium+ viscosity and light staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of tart, ripe and dried red and dark fruits: Morello cherry, lingonberry, blackberry, red flowers, black tea, dried green herbs, cocoa, new leather and some fine baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+ and pretty glossy. The more modern lean to this wine is typically not my style but this is undeniably a good IGT from Toscano. It’s quite lovely now with a decant and should remain so through 2031 with ease. — 12 days ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Holly and I celebrated 19 years together this week so naturally, another bottle of 2005 emerged from our cellar. Clarendon Hills is known mostly for their Rhône-styled wines but their Cabernet Sauvignon’s are of equal quality. The 2005 Hickinbotham was poured into a decanter about 90 minutes prior to service and enjoyed over the course of a couple of hours. The wine pours, a deep ruby color with an opaque core; medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears and signs of sediment. On the nose, the wine is vinous with notes of ripe and some desiccated, dark fruits and red fruits: blackberries, black currants, red plums, dried tobacco leaf, Herbs de Provence, oiled leather, mocha, dusty gravel, and baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry, medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose however the fruit seems riper in profile. The finish is long and rich; decadent. A dense wine of strong character and a lovely pairing with grilled lamb chops and kofta. Drinking so well right now and I expect this will continue to do so well past 2035. — 12 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

“Bricco Ambrogio” stands alone as the only MGA in the tiny commune of Roddi and it’s almost completely under vine. In fact, the most prominent geological feature in Roddi is the hill of Bricco Ambrogio. While the Lodali family were the first to bottle a single expression, back in the late 1970’s, we largely have Paolo Scavino to thank for the growth of its reputation as a source of depth and balanced Barolo over the last 20+ years.

The 2020 “Bricco Ambrogio” pours a bright, luminous garnet color; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing and predominately red fruited with notes of Morello cherry, cranberry, raspberry, rosebushes, tar, dried green herbs, cedar chest, spices, and gravely earth. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finishes long, grippy and spicy. A lovely Bricco Ambrogio with beautiful balance and sneaky power; arguably the benchmark for the MGA. Drinking well now in its youth (thank you 2020) but will surely gain complexity after 2030 and deliver smiles through 2040+. — a day ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Mention “Monvigliero” around any Barolo nut and there is a better than good chance you might witness the following behavior: waxing poetic in hushed tones, sighing, swooning…possibly fainting. Monvigliero truly is the zeitgeist. For over 40 years, Comm. G.B. Burlotto (and Fratelli Alessandria before them), have quietly been making great single-vineyard Monvigliero and it was only in the last 10-15 years that the world started to catch on to the magic that was happening in Verduno. In the last handful of years alone, there have been a flurry of producers with holdings in Monvigliero that have released their own single-vineyard expression. However, what many may not realize is that Enrico Scavino and his daughters have been producing a “Monvigliero” since 2007, making them one of the first half dozen to do so. I’m only suggesting that the Scavino’s knew there was something special there well before the hype train came to the station.

Popped and poured; enjoyed with dinner and over the course of a couple hours. The 2020 “Monvigliero” pours a deep garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. The nose is gorgeous; seemingly darker fruited with blackberry, pomegranate, black cherry lozenges, roses and spice box. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannin (though friendly) and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and lithe. An elegant wine and downright delicious. I think Paolo Scavino did a fabulous job of capturing the synergy of what Mother Nature gave in the 2020 vintage and the source of their fruit in the heart of the Monvigliero MGA. These are very early days for this wine but it’s already a joy to drink now but I expect this will continue a lovely evolution through 2038, easy. — 7 days ago

Jay Kline

8.9

“Saint-Estèphe de Calon-Ségur” was the previous name of the third wine of Calon-Ségur, now known as “Le C de Calon-Ségur” (from 2019). The third wine of the estate is made with some of the younger vines and aged in thrice-used barrels for 16 months.

Popped and poured, enjoyed over the course of 90 minutes. The 2018 pours a deep ruby/purple color with an opaque core; medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of tart and ripe black fruits: black currant, blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, cocoa and soft baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium. This is a fairly easy wine to enjoy and has a more modern feel which serves it well for more early drinking. Drink now through 2028. — 12 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

The Godefroy lieu-dit sits below the Brouilly hill, to the east. The vines here are very old; some over a century!

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of two days. Fairly consistent throughout. The 2022 “Godefroy” pours a deep ruby/purple color; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with perfumed notes of ripe strawberries, Rainier cherry, red plum, forest floor, and red flowers. There’s also a slight funky note, a sort of mushroom thing that I really liked. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+; almost chewy. Compared to the “La Chapelle” from earlier in the week, Godefroy is rounder; a bit more fun, flirty and funky whereas “La Chapelle” is darker fruited, more chiseled; stony and sexy. Drinking well now and through 2037+. Thanks for the assist @Lyle Fass — 4 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

As someone who has been described as an Italophile, I’m particularly enamored with the wines of Piemonte. You’ve probably all heard the saying, “the more you learn, the less you seem to know”. Yeah, I don’t know that it really makes sense. Yet, it seems to apply more and more these days. This wonderful bottle from Giovanni Rosso was an entire lesson of its own for me.

Okay, so I’ve been enjoying the Barolo’s from Giovanni Rosso for almost a decade now and it was not until this bottle that I realized this is not their “classico” but instead, a blend of their holdings exclusively throughout Serralunga d’Alba. A sort of “super classico” (I just made that up) I guess one could say. Since the mid-1990’s, they have been best known for their Serralunga parcels in Cerretta (Bricco). Later, in 2004, they were the first to release a single-vineyard bottling of the Serra MGA (not to be confused with the La Serra MGA in La Morra 🙄). More recently, they have picked up parcels in other Serralunga MGA’s including Costabella, Sorano, Lirano, Damiano, as well as the up and coming Meriame and their most famous of all, Vignarionda (the only other MGA from which they do a single-vineyard besides the aforementioned Serra and Cerretta). I know…it’s a lot to absorb. Let’s just get to the notes.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of an hour. The 2019 “Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba” pours a pale garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with powerful, heady notes of red (mostly) and black fruit: fresh raspberries, pomegranate, blood orange, roses, talcum powder, freshly tarred roof and dry earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. This is a powerful expression of the 2019 vintage that needs some time to settle down. The fruit profile is quite big but the classic Serralunga structure is there in the background. You can drink now if you’re a hedonist (guilty) but I suspect a bigger reward to come from 2029-2040+. — 8 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Salanques: Poured into a decanter several hours prior and returned to the bottle just before dinner. The 2007 “Salanques” pours, a deep garnet color with a near opaque, core; medium+ viscosity with light staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of ripe and slightly desiccated red and dark fruits, red cherries, blackberries, dried red flowers, well-oiled leather, rocky minerals, light baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin (that is mostly integrated) and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+. Showing remarkable elegance; this is a delicious, gorgeous Priorat that is currently firing on all cylinders. A lovely pairing with paella a variety of traditional Spanish tapas. Drink now and over the next 10 years. — 12 days ago