Old World vs. New World Round Six: Syrah!

Syrah is the handsome actor who isn’t just a pretty face—he wows the world with his feisty dramatic turns. Dressed up, Syrah can play big city sophisticate, luxuriating in new French oak. Dressed down and with a berry jam-filled core, he can become a comedic pretty boy character, possibly named Shiraz, before shifting again, becoming a film noir hero, cloaked in cloud of smoke yet oozing sex appeal. What a hunk. I kind of picture Syrah as the Jon Hamm of grapes. A grape so good they would use it to “Hermitagé” Bordeaux. That’s right, Syrah was used to make the BDX better. It is a Mondeuse Blanche X Dureza crossing, so likely was born in the Rhône-Alpes region, a discovery that silenced a lot of rumors like that it came from Shiraz in Iran. Or Syracuse—the Italian place not New York. It has attitude all its own but is not a New Yorker. Something to remember: IT IS NOT PETITE SIRAH. That is another grape entirely. Phew. Had to get that out. As you were. Typical tasting notes for Syrah are deep purple-y things like blackberries, blueberries or violets and boysenberries. It can also be peppery, and then the most distinguishing factor: it gets meaty and olive-y, which are tasting notes I apparently mix up in my palate memory which makes sense as I consume neither one of those things ever. Reasonably high tannins and acid will carry all of these complexities into old age elegantly. Like our movie star, Syrah just gets better with time. Before its movie star days, when it grew a few gray hairs and a strong jawline, it was a silly boy who didn’t know how to use his words. It is a later budding variety in both the vineyard and the bottle. And once poured, its reductive nature sometimes means it needs yet more time to make friends with oxygen again. Like a kid with an old soul, it needs time to grow into its wisdom. Unlike a kid, it is filled with alcohol. So, I was in pursuit of the best Syrah. I tasted my way through the Northern Rhône, Australia, California, Washington, and surprise up and comer New Zealand. Who was the darling? Who won its way into my shower? Which yes, is bad behavior on my part, taking wine in the shower, but I mentioned the masculine sex appeal of Syrah right? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ NEW ZEALAND Rather than start with the old venerable makers, I am going to hit you with the surprise region. The one that wowed my palate. How I love New Zealand wines, if nothing else then for the fact that they named a region Gimblett Gravels. Which is what the soil is. Gravelly. And that gravel is super important. It drains nicely so the grapes don’t get bloated, and the stones hold on to the heat needed to ripen a grape like Syrah. 2014 Smith and Sheth Cru Omahu Syrah New World ripeness and Old (World) Spice. Created by Brian Sheth and Steve Smith (a master of wine!), who are devoted to Hawke’s Bay. With good reason. They’ve created a very unique Syrah. It has all the elements of classic Syrah (see my basic Syrah tasting notes above) but they all have a unique vibrancy and energy that makes you know they come from somewhere special. CALIFORNIA 2005 Olabisi Suisun Valley Syrah Pitch black but a ruby going on garnet-ish rim. Smelling it alternated violently between bacon fat with a smidge of white pepper, red and black cherries and some dried herbs. And then back to fat. On the palate flowers roses and candied violet jumped in and then the bacon fat came back and I LOVE wine that is different with every sip. Complex is fun. At least in wine. In a person mostly but sometimes perplexing because unlike wine you need to commit longer than a bottle. Though both are worth it. Usually. 2016 TOP “Exert” Syrah Wow oh wow. First time I met Elena Martinez, who partners with her husband Stanley Barrios to make TOP Winery wines she spoke of the importance of balance in spinning tops, life…and wine. And they know how to do it. I’ve tasted quite a few of their wines over vintages and they have a way with acid and tannin balance in all their wines from Grenache Blanc (tricky to get right!) to GSM blends to Syrah. This wine will hold up for some time, but you will not be sorry if it is in your glass now. 2012 Martian Red Shift Syrah Lighter on the palate and wallet but it still packs a tasty punch. Like someone who has stuck their hand in Kool-Aid powder, pre-sugaring, then suckerpunches you. But without the pain. They may have been snacking on olives pre-Kool-Aid prep and if you are a blind tasting savant you will know all that. You will feel wise drinking this wine too as you are supporting a woman-run winery. FRANCE In the Northern Rhône, Syrah is your stud of grapes. The only red. It has its way with the winemakers (or is it the other way around?) and varying examples of its purple-y goodness are created from the peppery, more sprightly Côte Rotie in the north to the heartier (and sometimes angrier) Cornas of the south. Syrah also figures in the Southern Rhone, but there usually in the venerable GSM blend with its chums Grenache and Mourvedre. Clifford’s notes north to south: Côte Rotie is gonna be peppery and lighter. It can be blended with 20% Viognier these days that is rare. Skipping past the white wine appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet you hit St. Joseph which can vary wildly. Same for Crozes-Hermitage. Those two can be great value for money or not quite worth the price. Hermitage proper will be big and bold, albeit potentially blended with up to 15% Marsanne and/or Roussanne. Lastly, at least in terms of red wine appellations, we come to Cornas. It is 100% Syrah wine made here. Some people find them unsophisticated, or at least a bit brutish but I like the pain. Here a couple of my Northern Rhône favorites. 2015 Domaine Clusel-Roch Côte-Rotie Classique It could use a few more years to age but damn it is still fantastique. If I close my eyes and drink it, I imagine that I am slamming/squishing blackberries on my face while taking notes with a pencil on rock, wearing a leather jacket I spilled pepper on last time I was eating steak which for me as a vegetarian is highly un-imaginable but that is…what I get. It is deep and spicy and old-fashioned with an edge. 2013 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Selection Farconnet The wine I want to marry, perhaps. It is rough, but gentle enough to take care of me, plying me with toast, blackberry compote and an iced mocha in the morning. And its stubble may be rough now but it will age gracefully into a tender companion. AUSTRALIA And now to the land where they renamed the grape. It is tempting to sweep all Aussie Shiraz under one big fruity bombastic parasol but…oh hey did you know Australia is very big? And wines from Hunter Valley will be very different from Barossa will be very different from McLaren Vale. Even just between Eden Valley and Barossa Valley—subregions of the Barossa Zone—Shiraz can change from fuller with more robust tannins to more Eden’s more elegant taste on the beast. Australia is also fond of using American oak. 2016 Yangarra Estate PF McLaren Vale Blueberries and caramel with tannins that do not hurt, except in the good way. I dig this winemaker, with his biodynamic ways and devotion to only Rhône grapes. Is PF for Preservative Free? OR does PF stand for Peter Fraser, the winemaker? They say the former—and they aren’t lying. They don’t even sulphur. This is one of those “natural” wines that I want to make everyone drink so they learn that “natural” can also be perfect. Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz Deep and rich, rich and deep. The Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz was fruit forward and (according to my boyfriend) was a great accompaniment to the pork chop he was eating. I was eating a chocolate protein bar (we have very different diets) and can report it did okay by that. Was it tasty? Yah. WASHINGTON 2016 Savage Grace Yakima Valley Red Willow Vineyard Syrah This beguiling gem is the wine that keeps evolving, surprising and enchanting you. It seems insanely light for a Syrah at first, then jettisons brawn at you before pulling back flirtatiously and sending you flowers. What fun. It has a dark soul and a light heart. 2016 Colombia Crest Grand Estates Columbia Valley Syrah This is your value for the dollar bills basic Syrah. It will not keep you in the throes of passion but it will wash down a steak (I imagine). I’d drink it again. Okay. Who was my favorite wine? It would likely be the Hermitage. That is a wine that can TAKE ME THERE. But in terms of something I can enjoy in the hot hot heat of the shower…I’m going for the appropriately named Savage Grace which I find mostly graceful but spirited enough to merit the savage bit too. Actually, savage grace is an excellent pair of words to describe Syrah in general. And John Hamm. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Want to read more from Ellen? Check out her recent articles: May Day! May Day! Emergency Drinks in Dire Straits Pink Wine, Pink Wine Everywhere Seder Sips Old World vs. New World Round Five: Zinfandel! But Is It Vegan? Classic Pairings for the Veggie Soul: Pairing Five You can also listen to Ellen's podcast with Shaughn Buchholz, The Wine Situation here .