Will Stanley

9.6

My first time here in Chablis! I chose to have with dinner (Wine Not, a fantastic wine bar & restaurant in Chablis) a bottle from a winemaker who doesn’t need a great deal of introduction nowadays. Samuel Billaud has fast become one of the region’s most exciting winemakers, so I was eager to try something of his. This was on the list for the veritable bargain of €65. Mont de Milieu is a premier cru from the right bank of the Sereine, a vineyard which shares a very similar aspect, and soils, to Les Clos. The 2020 here is a wine of immense presence, structure, classicism, with a slight hedonistic character. The flavours lean toward the fuller side of the spectrum, with flavours of marzipan, orange peel and fresh cut marmalade, with a hint of honey. But there is terrific zip on entry, incredible minerality; any weight to this wine is lean, muscular and structured, possessing deft acidity, a lovely herbaceous quality (think tomato vine) and a finish to die for. I’ve immediately bought four bottles of this back home and can’t wait to enjoy it again. — 2 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

First things first, the wines of Bel Air Marquis d’Aligre or “BAMA”, as they are affectionately known, are not for everyone. They are essentially relics of a bygone era, made by a man who has largely resisted change over the last 74 years. Yes, that’s right, Jean-Pierre has been making the wine at BAMA since 1950. While nearly everyone around him has adopted whatever technology or technique that is trending, Jean-Pierre has held fast to his tradition. Before I get into the tasting notes, it’s worth sharing that opening a bottle of BAMA is a wild trip. A spirit walk of sorts. There are periods when you think the wine is fading and then minutes later, it’s a whirling dervish. It transformed every 20 minutes so be ready for the ride of your life.

Popped and poured; consumed over two days. Remarkable throughout. In the glass, the wine is a deep garnet color moving towards a rust color rim; slightly hazy with a near opaque, translucent core. Medium viscosity with light staining of the tears and some signs of fine sediment. On the nose, the wine is vinous showing notes of desiccated cherries, currants, rhubarb, prunes, pomegranate, tobacco, cedar box, a well-conditioned horse saddle, an old library, espresso, roasted Brussels sprouts and damp earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium(+?) tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is seriously 5 minutes long; it’s got the elegance of Margaux with an unctuous texture. Truly remarkable. A veritable abyss of complexity. Drink now with patience but honestly, I’m not even sure a wine like this ever dies so I wouldn’t be concerned about holding these for another couple decades. Special thanks to @Lyle Fass for the assist. — a year ago

Will Stanley

9.7

Simply one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tried to date, the 1961 Real Vinicola is my first venture into mature Port and a complete eye-opener to this style of wine.

A veritable miracle on opening, the wine has a clear brick-red colour and a hauntingly beautiful nose. There are exotic aromas of toasted nuts, dried cherry, fig, raisin, lavender and clove; it’s a wine you don’t need to taste for a long time, such is the intrigue up front. The palate, then, is explosive for a wine of this age, almost full bodied with great complexity and acidity that belies its six decades of life.

The finish is staggeringly long, with a lasting impression on the palate. A new and totally enthralling experience for me in the world of wine. — 3 years ago

Matt

9.7

Ah, "Terras Gauda Rías Baixas Albariño'-a veritable jewel from the spectacular landscapes of Spain's Galicia, specifically the picturesque Rías Baixas DO, where the Atlantic whispers sweet nothings to the vines. This splendid Albariño unveils a bouquet of zesty lemon, fragrant white flowers, and a hint of sea breeze, tantalising the senses like a playful flirtation. The producer, Bodegas Terras Gauda, founded by the illustrious Ramón V. de Garay, is famed for its commitment to sustainable practices. Fun fact: they pioneered the use of genetic research in their vineyards-a cleverer endeavor than my attempts at crossword puzzles! Albariño, that beguiling grape, is renowned for its bright acidity and versatility; a wonderful partner in crime for seafood, particularly oysters, as the minerality complements their briny sweetness. It also loves the spicy embrace of Asian cuisine, where its zesty notes dance playfully. This delightful nectar has garnered praise, earning a commendable 90 points from Wine Enthusiast. Truly, it's one to uncap whilst contemplating life or... other intimate matters far too risqué for polite company! — 3 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Opened and decanted about an hour before dinner. No formal notes. The 2007 B. Levet "La Chavaroche" is flat out beautiful right now. The aromatics are off the charts with gorgeous, ripe dark fruits, a bit of the animal, a veritable hillside of lavender, black olives, some deli case, black pepper, some leather and earth. The structure is still firm but everything is well integrated at this point; superbly balanced; great acid. The finish is long and has some ferrous minerals that I simply love. A sublime pairing with a Morgan Ranch Wagyu tenderloin served with corn purée, charred broccolini and juniper ash. The 2007's are absolutely ready to drink now with a short decant (mostly to remove any sediment) however, they will continue to drink well for another 10+ easy from good cellars.
— a year ago

Willie Carter

9.1

A deep raspberry in the glass. A steady stream of fine, minuscule bubbles with wonderful creaminess and finely textured. The nose is lithe and gorgeous with an abundance of spice upfront. A veritable explosion of fresh red berries. Cherries, wild strawberries, and raspberries. Blood orange and kumquats along with apricots and apple crumble. Delightful brioche bread aromas and butter. The red fruits here are just so nice.

At first smell and sip, it’s abundantly clear that this follows in the long line of champagnes with pure class from Pol Roger. 60/40 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay with 15% of the Pinot vinified as red wine. Aged for six years before release and undergoes full malo. Incredible depth and power here. Classy and high toned, this is controlled opulence. Despite the 8 g/l dosage, the acidity is still high and vivacious.

Full bodied yet graceful, this simply dances upon the tongue. With cherry and more apricot notes, the palate comes alive. Spice tickles the tongue and the underlying biscuits please. Long finish that truly leaves you wanting more. Develops so very nicely in the glass over time. Exquisite today, but will be so much better down the road. — 3 years ago

Randy Fuller

9.7

The golden tint has a green element to it. The wine’s nose is a veritable fruit basket of tropical aromas - pineapple, mango, lemons - and a quarry full of minerals. The mouthfeel is rich and creamy, yet with a zing of acidity that tingles. The palate brings Meyer lemon, some tangerine and a touch of apricot to the party. Delicious. — 3 years ago

Jay Kline

9.2

I’ve been wanting to try the wines of Cantina Tomaso Gianolio for years but finding them on this side of the Atlantic has been a challenge. As of now, I don’t know much about where Davide and Igor Gianolio source their fruit but the family has been making these wines in a traditional manner for over 90 years so I’m sure the source is exceptional. So traditional, even the cork is short and stubby, lol!

Popped and poured; enjoyed over two days. Consistent throughout. The 2019 pours a light garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing and tar forward early but it quickly transforms into a veritable beauty with notes of raspberries, rose water, tar, star anise, talcum powder, and dry, stony earth. On the palate, the with is dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Elegant and lovely expression of the 2019 vintage. Drink now with patience and through 2044 (if the cork will keep that long). Huge thanks to @Lyle Fass for the assist! — 8 months ago

Will Stanley

9.6

Truly benchmark Rioja, La Rioja Alta’s ‘904’ Gran Reserva from the 2010 vintage - as fabled in Rioja as it is in Bordeaux - is a disarmingly gorgeous wine with superb ageing potential. I first tried this wine over two years ago, and found it a little closed at the time and was underwhelmed by the palate. The nose was terrific though, and that holds true today - it’s simply breathtaking, the sort of wine you spend ten minutes sniffing before taking your first sip. Today’s palate, however, is well and truly open for business. What a veritable explosion of flavour; a kaleidoscopic array of the best of both traditional and modern Rioja, all of it fresh, none of it tired, with a pure and ethereal presence of black and blue fruits, flowers, vanilla bean, clove, clementine and macerated cherry. When wine folk talk of a long finish, this wine gets a nod - it leaves an imprint on one’s palate that lasts minutes. I’m quite amazed by the improvement that two years has afforded this wine, both bottles bought at the same time and stored side-by-side in my cellar. At last, this has begun to show its potential and I cannot wait to see how it develops in the coming 20, 30, 40 years.

In the meantime, do not sleep on the 2010 Viña Ardanza, a wine that I have enjoyed many a time in the last two years, and one that would be included in my all-time list of value fine wines, were anyone to ask!

96+ — 2 years ago

Adriana Fabbro

9.0

When working in wine retail the week before Christmas, take out is a must and stalwart pairings like pho and Sancerre on a rainy December evening don’t let you down. Riper fruit: lime, lemongrass, some white peach, white pepper & flintiness. Fuller body (a veritable 14.5% ABV - welcome to Sancerre in the age of global warming!)
— 3 years ago