Jay Kline

9.5

Popped and poured; enjoyed as a preamble to my birthday dinner. The “La Pucelle” pours a straw color with medium viscosity and a persistent mousse. On the nose, the wine is developing with powerful notes of yellow apple, Bosc pear, raspberry, white peach, brioche some chanterelle mushrooms and a mix of chalky and limestone minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with high acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is forever. Zippy. Divine. A “wow” Champagne that seems to straddle the freshness of the reductive approach and the complexity of the oxidative approach.

Always 100% Pinot Noir, this release of “La Pucelle” is a deft blend of the 2014 and 2012 vintages; 32/68 respectively. Disgorged 2015. Though this is NV, expect a long life. My only regret is drinking this so quickly because this has a bigger story to tell. But I was sharing with 9 other people and holy smokes, it’s already the belle of the ball. Thank you @Lyle Fass for the assist! — 5 days ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Wrapping up a wild weekend, I finished this bottle of Cuchet-Beliando Cornas that I opened Friday evening. It was awesome on the pop and pour and continued to develop in a lovely arc through Sunday evening when I enjoyed my last glass. The 2017 pours a deep ruby/purple with a magenta rim and what’s basically an opaque core. Medium+ viscosity and moderate staining, with some signs of sediment. On the nose the wine is developing with notes of the most pure black and red brambles, some blueberries, a bit of animale, deli case, pimento loaf, lavender, a whole Pensey’s bag of Tellicherry pepper corns, black olives, cedar and gentle warm spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium acid. Confirming the notes from the palate although the brambles are a bit more red. The finish is long and with loads of meat and black pepper. This is a stunning Cornas that has some real class behind the feral Cornas curtain. I really love this…but I’m an absolute sucker for the Rhône. Drink now with some patience but this will be brilliant for decades. 2024-2057. Thanks for the assist @Lyle Fass — a month ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Popped and poured; consumed over three days. Best on Day 3 but this was pretty awesome from the draw. Brisset’s humble Bourgogne Blanc sources fruit outside of the appellations of Chassange-Montrachet, Volnay and Meursault. I wouldn’t blame anyone for suspecting it to be 1er cru. The 2021 “Cuvée Cassanes” pours a straw color with medium viscosity. There is a gorgeous nose of green apples, underripe pineapple, kiwi, star fruit, and a mix of limestone and chalky minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ acid. The wine has lovely texture. The finish is long and has some super chalky minerals. A distinctive Bourgogne Blanc. I wish (and will) buy more of this in the future. An awesome pairing with pheasant pâté. Drink now through 2031. Thanks to @Lyle Fass for the assist! — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.6

The 2016 “Don Fiorino” Riserva is a very special bottling from Produttori. So special in fact, that I can only recall them making a similar Riserva on two other occasions in their history: 1990 and 2008. When the vintage is strong, Produttori will bottle single-cru Riservas from 9 specific MGA’s within the cooperative. However, in 2016 the vintage was deemed to be so remarkable that they made a Riserva blend. Included in this blend are the 9 typical MGA’s along with grapes from some other, important MGA’s that are never bottled on their own (I believe Cottà and Faset are two of them). To commemorate the occasion, the wine was named after the priest, Don Fiorino Marengo who founded the Produttori in 1958. This is a wine fitting to such a legacy. Imagine the 2016 Produttori classico cranked up to 11. That’s about what we’ve got.

Popped and poured, enjoyed over the course of an hour. The 2016 “Don Fiorino” pours a deep garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the palate, the wine is developing with powerful notes of tart and ripe dark fruits: black cherry, pomegranate molasses, red flowers, talcum powder, sage and gravelly earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with low-key high tannin and zippy, medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is remarkably long and juicy. So juicy in fact that it seems to mask the tannins but they are definitely there. The density is unreal. I expect this wine to live forever. Drink now with patience to appreciate its precocious youth (and because the 2016 vintage is so damned giving) but I expect this to be even better after 2031 and then remarkable through 2066. Thanks to @Lyle Fass for the assist. — a day ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Popped and poured; enjoyed over two days and consistent throughout. The 2021 “La Dardouille” pours a bright purple color with a near transparent core. Medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, youthful with a bucket of fresh, darker fruits: blackberries, dark cherry, plum, and blue berries with purple flowers, black pepper, dried earth, minerals and some light baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium(+?) tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose with the black pepper really showing more prominently. Long, mineral finish. All of that being said, the elegance of this wine is arguably its most distinctive characteristic. This is a very light-handed Saint-Joseph and its transparency is a gift. Very pretty stuff. Drink now to enjoy its youthful beauty but some patience will likely reward as I expect this will flesh out. Drink through 2036. Thanks for the assist @Lyle Fass — 3 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

First things first, the wines of Bel Air Marquis d’Aligre or “BAMA”, as they are affectionately known, are not for everyone. They are essentially relics of a bygone era, made by a man who has largely resisted change over the last 74 years. Yes, that’s right, Jean-Pierre has been making the wine at BAMA since 1950. While nearly everyone around him has adopted whatever technology or technique that is trending, Jean-Pierre has held fast to his tradition. Before I get into the tasting notes, it’s worth sharing that opening a bottle of BAMA is a wild trip. A spirit walk of sorts. There are periods when you think the wine is fading and then minutes later, it’s a whirling dervish. It transformed every 20 minutes so be ready for the ride of your life.

Popped and poured; consumed over two days. Remarkable throughout. In the glass, the wine is a deep garnet color moving towards a rust color rim; slightly hazy with a near opaque, translucent core. Medium viscosity with light staining of the tears and some signs of fine sediment. On the nose, the wine is vinous showing notes of desiccated cherries, currants, rhubarb, prunes, pomegranate, tobacco, cedar box, a well-conditioned horse saddle, an old library, espresso, roasted Brussels sprouts and damp earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium(+?) tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is seriously 5 minutes long; it’s got the elegance of Margaux with an unctuous texture. Truly remarkable. A veritable abyss of complexity. Drink now with patience but honestly, I’m not even sure a wine like this ever dies so I wouldn’t be concerned about holding these for another couple decades. Special thanks to @Lyle Fass for the assist. — 6 months ago

Jay Kline

9.4

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of several hours. The 2019 pours a deeper garnet (than the Barbaresco) but otherwise the same with a transparent core, medium+ viscosity and no staining of the tears. On the nose, more power here too. A tar bomb early which settles in and takes a seat behind a basket full of black cherries, macerated blackberries, roses, orange rind, menthol, fresh sage and some dried basil and old wood. On the palate, bone dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. Such a lovely body and don’t even get me started on the texture. I’m smitten. Drink now with patience through 2049. Thanks @Lyle Fass for the assist! — 15 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

I’ve been wanting to try the wines of Cantina Tomaso Gianolio for years but finding them on this side of the Atlantic has been a challenge. As of now, I don’t know much about where Davide and Igor Gianolio source their fruit but the family has been making these wines in a traditional manner for over 90 years so I’m sure the source is exceptional. So traditional, even the cork is short and stubby, lol!

Popped and poured; enjoyed over two days. Consistent throughout. The 2019 pours a light garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing and tar forward early but it quickly transforms into a veritable beauty with notes of raspberries, rose water, tar, star anise, talcum powder, and dry, stony earth. On the palate, the with is dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Elegant and lovely expression of the 2019 vintage. Drink now with patience and through 2044 (if the cork will keep that long). Huge thanks to @Lyle Fass for the assist! — 21 days ago

Nikki Hamburger

9.0

Yummy but not Andrew's and mines fav outta Christmas gift box — 4 months ago

Jay Kline

9.1

The 2020 vintage presented many challenges for wine producers around the world but the fires in California added a layer of complexity that nobody needed. Many of the producers I enjoy didn’t even make red wine and if they did, it was never released. For some, the effects were more catastrophic. Unfortunately for McHenry Vineyard, the situation was the latter. Not only was the entire crop lost to smoke taint in the CZU Lighting Complex Fire but the winery and most of the structures on the property were destroyed. They even lost some of the majestic redwoods that have surrounded the vineyard for centuries. Despite the pandemic and the destruction, Brandon and Annelisa were resolved to rebuild. However, with the crop lost and nowhere to make wine for the foreseeable future, they had to enlist some help. In the near term, Brandon was able to purchase fruit from the Christie Vineyard in Corralitos (the longtime source for Storrs Winery & Vineyard) and John Benedetti of Sante Arcangeli came in the with the assist; just as he had in the production of the 2019 vintage. The fruit from Christie Vineyard is more Dijon heavy than McHenry’s estate vineyard but John did a great job of honoring the McHenry approach and style. The results were remarkable.

Popped and poured and enjoyed over a four hour period, the 2020 McHenry “Christie Vineyard” pours a bright, luminous ruby color with a transparent core. No obvious staining of the tears; medium+ viscosity. On the nose, bright ripened cherries, raspberries, roses, cloves and other spices. The wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. The finish is long. The overall impression is fresh, juicy and full of life. Like all vintages of McHenry, production is minuscule with only 150 cases produced.

As a sort of epilogue, Mother Earth giveth and taketh away. For all of the gifts that California’s climate brings to the production of wine, they are not immune to the whims of nature and these sorts of stories are becoming more and more common. With that being said, there have been at least two other occasions in McHenry’s past where they have been forced to purchase fruit or choose not release wine due to fire or pests. Unfortunately, this will probably not be their last but as long as they are determined to make beautifully balanced Pinot Noir way up on Bonny Doon Road, I will be drinking them. — a year ago