Freddy R. Troya

9.0

Gambino Vini – Tifeo Etna Bianco 2023
Etna DOC, Sicily – Italy 🇮🇹

Overview
A striking white blend from the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, crafted with 72% Carricante and 28% Catarratto, two of Sicily’s most important indigenous grapes. Etna Bianco wines are fast becoming symbols of Italy’s volcanic terroirs, delivering mineral-driven, authentic expressions far from mainstream white styles.

Aromas & Flavors
Expressive and layered, offering citrus zest, green apple, and pear, complemented by wild herbs and subtle floral tones. A hint of saline minerality underscores the volcanic origin, while a smoky whisper adds complexity.

Mouthfeel
Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and a lingering citrus-stone finish. Textured yet refreshing, it balances richness and precision beautifully.

Winemaking Notes
High-altitude vineyards on Etna’s northern slopes provide cool nights and intense sun exposure, yielding grapes with freshness and concentration.

Food Pairing
Perfect with seafood pasta, grilled swordfish, Sicilian caponata, or fresh cheeses. A versatile choice that can elevate both traditional Sicilian fare and modern pairings.

Verdict
A compelling introduction to Etna’s whites: mineral, distinctive, and deeply expressive. For wine lovers seeking to explore volcanic terroirs, this is a must-try.

📚 Educational Sidebar – Why This Can Age
Carricante, Etna’s flagship white grape, has been cultivated for over 1,000 years. With naturally high acidity and strong minerality, it develops honeyed, nutty, and petrol-like complexity over time, much like Riesling. While delicious now, top Etna Bianco blends like this can age gracefully for 7–10 years, layering depth without losing freshness. Cheers! — 19 days ago

Freddy R. Troya

9.0

Winzer Krems Grüner Veltliner – Kellermeister Privat
Kremstal DAC, Austria 🇦🇹

Overview
A classic Grüner Veltliner from the Kremstal DAC, one of Austria’s benchmark regions for this varietal. Known for its cool climate and mineral-rich soils along the Danube, Kremstal consistently produces bright, crisp, and ultra-refreshing Grüners with excellent typicity.

Aromas & Flavors
Vivid notes of pear, green apple, and citrus zest, lifted by the grape’s signature white pepper spice. There’s also a subtle herbal undertone that rounds out the freshness.

Mouthfeel
Light to medium-bodied, with zippy acidity that keeps it lively and food-friendly. A faint touch of tannin adds structure without weighing it down. Clean, dry, and palate-reviving.

Winemaking Notes
Produced under Winzer Krems’ Kellermeister Privat label, which emphasizes classic varietal expression. Stainless steel fermentation preserves brightness and minerality, keeping the wine fresh and precise.

Food Pairing
Perfect with fresh salads, grilled vegetables, or seafood. A natural companion to spicy Asian dishes thanks to its crisp acidity, or simply enjoy it chilled on a warm day.

Verdict
A textbook Grüner Veltliner that embodies everything people love about the style: refreshing, balanced, and versatile. A great palate “reset” wine, ideal for everyday enjoyment or pairing across cuisines. 📚 Educational Sidebar – Austria’s DAC System
Austria uses DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) to certify quality wines tied to specific terroirs — much like France’s AOC. Kremstal DAC, where this wine hails from, is known for fruit-forward Grüner Veltliner and Riesling with lively minerality and freshness. — 3 months ago

Karen Tripson

9.0

Tastes like California in the best way. — 4 years ago

Peter Stern

9.1

Juicy, delicious! — 5 years ago

Freddy R. Troya

9.0

Vigne Franche – Sauvignon Gris 2024
Vin de France – France 🇫🇷

Overview
A 100% Sauvignon Gris made as a natural wine — no added sulfites, no added yeasts, and fully vegan-friendly. Sauvignon Gris, a close cousin of Sauvignon Blanc, offers rounder texture and a slightly more exotic fruit character. In this 2024 expression, the natural vinification brings freshness and a touch of rustic charm.

Aromas & Flavors
Zesty notes of citrus peel, grapefruit, and gooseberry, layered with stone fruit and a hint of herbs. The natural style adds a lightly textured, almost cider-like nuance that makes it playful and distinctive.

Mouthfeel
Crisp and refreshing, light-bodied but with a textured mid-palate. Bright acidity keeps it lively, while the unfiltered style leaves a casual, slightly wild impression.

Food Pairing
Perfect for mezze, grilled shrimp, fresh summer salads, or simply sipping with friends. A crowd-pleaser that also works as an introduction to natural wines.

Verdict
An approachable natural white that’s fun, zesty, and easy to enjoy. Built for casual moments but with enough character to stand out.

📌 Sidebar – Educational Note
Sauvignon Gris is a pink-skinned mutation of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s rarer, fuller-bodied, and tends to deliver rounder, more aromatic wines than its better-known cousin — making it an exciting discovery for wine lovers. — 20 days ago

Freddy R. Troya

9.2

Winzer Krems – Grüner Veltliner – Chremisa Edition
Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), Austria 🇦🇹

Overview
Created in 1995 to honor the 1,000-year anniversary of the City of Krems (first recorded in 995 AD), the Chremisa Edition has become a flagship expression of Austrian Grüner Veltliner. It shows why this grape, deeply rooted in Lower Austria, is revered worldwide: structured, spicy, mineral-driven, and endlessly food-friendly.

Aromas & Flavors
Bright aromas of grapefruit, honeysuckle, and orchard blossoms, lifted by Grüner’s signature white pepper note. On the palate, it’s refreshing yet layered, with citrus zest, green apple, and a mineral streak that gives precision and elegance.

Mouthfeel
Medium-bodied, lively, and perfectly balanced. Acidity cleanses and recalibrates the palate, while a subtle spiciness adds dimension. Crisp yet textured, finishing long with finesse.

Winemaking Notes
Produced under the Sandgrube 13 label of Winzer Krems, one of Austria’s most historic cooperatives. Grapes are sourced from vineyards along the Danube with loess and primary rock soils, ideal for showcasing Grüner’s minerality. Stainless-steel vinification preserves freshness and typicity.

Food Pairing
An all-rounder: pairs beautifully with schnitzel, roast chicken, or veal; also great with baked mushrooms, Asian cuisine, or tangy vinaigrette salads. Can be enjoyed as an aperitif or even as a “meditation wine” on its own.

Verdict
A timeless Grüner — layered, spicy, refreshing — bridging Austria’s thousand-year wine heritage with today’s palate.

📚 Educational Sidebar – Austria’s Grüner Legacy
Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white grape, covering nearly one-third of all vineyards. Famous for its peppery spice, bright acidity, and food-pairing versatility, it thrives in regions like Kremstal, Kamptal, and Wachau. Look for styles ranging from light “Steinfeder” to powerful, age-worthy “Smaragd” in Wachau classifications. — 3 months ago

Doug Powers

9.1

Heavier and seeming more evolved than the great 2010 Orthogneiss, instead of the lovely honey notes this shows mature notes, still very good acidity, but seems ready to drink, very good. As a minor sidebar, I had the same experience 3 months ago when I compared the 2009s of each, that is, the “lesser regarded” Orthogneiss outperformed the Granite, not sure why?? — 2 years ago

with Jim

Freddy R. Troya

9.0

Adolph Müller – Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese V.2019
Mosel – Germany 🇩🇪

Overview
From one of the most famous vineyard areas in the Mosel, this Riesling Spätlese showcases the classic late-harvest style: naturally riper grapes delivering more fruit concentration and a touch of sweetness, all balanced by Mosel’s hallmark acidity.

Aromas & Flavors
Notes of ripe peach, honeyed apricot, and yellow apple with hints of citrus zest and light petrol. There’s also a delicate floral lift that keeps the wine bright.

Mouthfeel
Lush and slightly off-dry, with juicy stone fruit balanced by a spine of acidity. Refreshing yet round, the sweetness never feels heavy, instead creating a long, clean, harmonious finish.

Winemaking Notes
Traditional Mosel practices: steep-slope vineyards on slate soils, late-harvested grapes, and cool fermentation that preserves purity and minerality.

Food Pairing
Brilliant with spicy Thai or Indian dishes, smoked trout, or strong cheeses like Munster or Roquefort. Also a lovely aperitif.

Verdict
A charming, accessible Mosel Riesling Spätlese — vibrant, fruity, and balanced. Delicious now, but will age gracefully for a decade or more. Cheers!

Educational Sidebar
📌 “Spätlese” = late-harvest. Grapes are picked riper, leading to more fruit intensity and natural sweetness compared to “Kabinett.” — 25 days ago

Freddy R. Troya

9.0

Domaine Derey Frères – Marsannay “Les Vignes Marie” 2021 🇫🇷
Marsannay AOC, Côte de Nuits – Burgundy, France

Overview
100% Pinot Noir from Marsannay, the only Côte de Nuits village allowed to produce wines in all three colors (red, white, and rosé). “Les Vignes Marie” is a standout parcel that shows the classic finesse of Burgundy Pinot while keeping Marsannay’s hallmark freshness and approachability.

Aromas & Flavors
Bright red cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry lead the nose, with hints of rose petal, subtle spice, and earthy forest floor. A touch of mineral undertone brings lift and precision.

Mouthfeel
Elegant and medium-bodied with silky tannins, lively acidity, and a refined structure. Balanced and supple, finishing with freshness that keeps you coming back for another sip.

Winemaking Notes
The Derey family has been established in Marsannay since the mid-17th century, and their work focuses on organic farming and gentle cellar practices. The 2021 vintage, cooler and classic in style, emphasizes delicacy over power.

Food Pairing
Perfect with roast chicken, duck breast, mushroom risotto, or a charcuterie board. Its finesse makes it versatile across light meats and earthy vegetarian dishes.

Verdict
A graceful Burgundy Pinot that captures Marsannay’s balance between Côte de Nuits structure and charming approachability. For me, this sits as one of my most favorite wines in the Côte de Nuits — at a very affordable price point, it punches well above its weight and shows how Burgundy can still deliver tremendous value.

📚 Educational Sidebar – Why Marsannay Matters
Marsannay, at the northern gateway of the Côte de Nuits, is often overshadowed by its neighbors like Gevrey-Chambertin. But its wines deliver exceptional value, showing Pinot Noir with purity, finesse, and terroir character — a smart entry point into Burgundy without the Grand Cru price tag. Cheers! — 25 days ago

Doug Powers

9.4

Still shows some lovely primary redfruits, cassis, currants, quite tannic as well (characteristic of the 1986s I cellared), long, lingering finish, should show even better after my wife’s grilled lamb and my grilled steak come off the grill. I will say I was nervous when the final 1/8-inch of the cork severed off my old Ah-So cork puller, but not a problem!

Interesting sidebar — I purchased this upon arrival in 1989 at K&L in SF — by that time there were widespread reports of bad corks in Ducru from (at least) 1985 and 1986, so when I visited the shop I explained the situation and committed to purchasing 6 bottles, but only if I knew this batch didn’t have the cork problems — so, I said I’d pay for another bottle and we could open it together in the shop, I’d pay and also buy the other 6 bottles if it was NOT corked, and said if it was corked, then they’d pay for the opened bottle and I wouldn’t take the 6 other bottles — they agreed, we mutually tried the bottle then and there, no cork taint so I paid for 7 bottles total.

Telling the story in part because K&L has always been, IMHO, one of the classiest wine shops in the U.S., and they deserve credit agreeing to my deal (BTW, Wine Advocate had written about the cork taint issue within the preceding 3-6 months, so they were aware of the potential for it) — anyway, they’ve gotten a lot more of my business in the past 35+ years since!! — 2 years ago

with Jim