Klaus Stülb

Weingut Keller

Abts E de Riesling 2017

One of the best evenings of wine I’ve had this year, and it was just focused on this duo. Opened as inspiration for this year’s red pick at Miao Lu (a name to remember for those reading. I’ll say it here first - some of the best Pinot’s and Chard’s in the world will be coming out of this project high up in Yunnan!), and they both gave great context to the task.

When I harvested with Klaus-Peter in 2017, the vineyards bore the scars of hail, every last one of them. The damage was manifest in what we came to call "hail berries" (misshapen berries). To my untrained palate, they tasted perfectly fine. Naturally, I asked KP why we were discarding them, and his response, while not entirely unexpected, was still astonishing (paraphrasing of course): "I don't need to know precisely what they do," he said, "but if there's even a chance they might diminish the wine by 1%, they're gone. And these? They look capable of much worse."

That unyielding spirit of his was, I must admit, my torment at Abtserde, the vineyard hit hardest by the hail. We spent an entire day sorting and picking a single row - granted, the rows were long, but the pace was glacial. The true enemy, though, wasn’t the relentless sorting, but the wasps. Those little demons made an already grueling task even more daunting, dodging their stings as we plucked berries one by one, like selecting pearls from a troubled sea. What we ended up with were, quite literally, tiny gems - "caviar" berries of purity. By day’s end, the sight was something to behold. Despite the torment, the hard work was unquestionably worth it. The 17’ Abtserde is my wine of the vintage.

I’ve had the 17’ Abtserde on numerous occasions but this takes the cake as the best (note to self: best to decant a young Abtserde hard). It is a marvel of purity and depth, with its nose evoking Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, and flint. These aromas reappear on the palate with a nearly overwhelming intensity, blending piquant brightness and mineral-rich concentration. With more air, a floral, bittersweet herbal note very typical of the vineyard appears (smells like the place even). As the evening unfolded, the wine seemed to grow younger, each glass more lively than the last. The final sip was almost painfully austere, like drinking pure limestone, its explosive palate held together by sharp acidity and a palpable, phenolic grip. The finish seemed endless. One of my best Keller experiences this year.
— 2 months ago

Lyle, Andrew and 12 others liked this
Ira Schwartz

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@Aaron Tan A very enjoyable read.
Tom Casagrande

Tom Casagrande Influencer Badge

Great story and note!

Weingut Klaus Lentsch

Bachgart Südtirol Blauburgunder 2016

2nd time. Liked it as much as first time. Delicate but well balanced. Nice acidity and robust dark fruit. 13% al. — 5 years ago

Prager

Klaus Smaragd Riesling 2015

Gaining complexity over time with some nice savory spices along with light pit fruit, some dry slate and a moderate finish. Lacks a little tension but a nice fat and sassy wine. — 10 months ago

Weingut Keller

von der Fels Rheinhessen Riesling 2015

Alder Yarrow
9.5

There are some times when the only thing that will suffice is one of the world’s greatest Rieslings. Klaus-Peter Keller @kellerdalsheim is, in my mind, the undisputed master of the Rheinhessen region of Germany. The Keller family has been making wine for 10 generations, and the oldest parcel of Riesling they have has been handed down within the family since 1789. Keller, who apprenticed in Burgundy before studying enology at Geisenheim told me that he looks for “playful elegance” in wine. He wants it to dance on the palate. And I’ve never had a bottle of his wine that hasn’t made ME want to dance. This one marries lemon pith and lemon oil with Asian pear and mandarine orange peel. But all of these flavors are perceived through a quartz-like minerality that evokes the feeling of licking an icicle or exploring a glacial cave. Stunning clarity and incredible acidity makes for a profound glass of mostly-dry Riesling. — 3 years ago

Milissa, Lyle and 13 others liked this

Weingut Klaus Lentsch

Bachgart Südtirol Riserva Blauburgunder

Great concentrated taste, salinity that is balanced and makes you want to eat and drink more!!! Myrtleberry — 6 years ago

Prinz von Hessen (Landgräflich Hessiches Weingut)

Großes Gewächs Johannisberger Klaus Riesling 2016

Crisp, fresh & tart on the nose with fresh cut hay, herby notes, (under)ripe lemons and a cold, steely very Rheingau core underneath.
On the palate this a fuller, riper mouthfeel, with a hint of creaminess and ripe fruit. Lemon curd, lemon sorbet, a hint of underripe mango, some white peach. A nice juicy, if not overly long, finish.
Nice drinking and has enough weight & structure but not the depth or precision you’d expect from GG level.
Edit: Day 2 with half a bottle left from yesterday. A nice waxy, lanolin character evolved. Seems more serious and complete. 0.1pts up
— 3 years ago

Daniel liked this

Weingut Keller

Feuervogel Silvaner 2015

Alder Yarrow
9.5

Oh the glories of a well-made Silvaner! And you don’t get much better made than Klaus-Peter! @kellerdalsheim. This wine was ringing like a struck bell with honeysuckle, orange blossom water and the crackling minerality of icicles dripping in the sunlight. Pure and energetic and totally satisfying. — 3 years ago

Josh, Sarah and 9 others liked this
Josh Morgenthau

Josh Morgenthau Influencer Badge

Beautiful

Steindorfer

Cuvée Klaus Eiswein 2015

Will serve with Xmas dessert! — 4 years ago

Weingut Klaus Lentsch

Riserva Sudtirol Alto Adige Lagrein

Super dark rich color - a lil tannic — I want to eat braised short ribs with this - also again a great salinity- so maybe something with anchovies — 6 years ago

Paul liked this