Weingut

Weingut Knoll

Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd Riesling 2015

Shay A
9.2

Any time I open a Riesling or GV from a reputable producer, I wonder why I don’t open them more often.

Great vintage, great Austrian producer.

I really enjoy the differences between Alsatian Rieslings, German Rieslings and Austrian Rieslings, the latter normally being a bit more textural/full-bodied (and higher in ABV at 13%, compared to the typical 8-10% range of the others). Pale yellow in the glass. White peach and a sweet lemon/lemongrass type of aromatic. Ripe stone fruits (more peach but also apricot) and minerals/slate alongside a spine of acidity that isn’t sharp, but balanced. Tasty.
— 12 hours ago

Pinotman, Tom and 16 others liked this
Pinotman /// Andreas

Pinotman /// Andreas

The Alsatian Riesling are often broad and big. Top ones are just rare in the US. One has to go to the source to try more producers.
Pinotman /// Andreas

Pinotman /// Andreas

Aka visit Elsass.
Shay A

Shay A Influencer Badge Premium Badge

@Pinotman /// Andreas : Thanks for the info. I’m normally opening sweet(er) German Rieslings, which makes sense at the lower ABV. I have a lengthy experience with Alsatian Rieslings and normally don’t find them “big”, but I suppose it’s relative. 2007 Trimbach CFE I had a few days ago was more elegant, but not as chiseled as I’d expect from a dry German Riesling. Also get TDN/petrol profile more common with Alsatian Rieslings than others.

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Weingut Keller

Abts E de Riesling 2017

One of the best evenings of wine I’ve had this year, and it was just focused on this duo. Opened as inspiration for this year’s red pick at Miao Lu (a name to remember for those reading. I’ll say it here first - some of the best Pinot’s and Chard’s in the world will be coming out of this project high up in Yunnan!), and they both gave great context to the task.

When I harvested with Klaus-Peter in 2017, the vineyards bore the scars of hail, every last one of them. The damage was manifest in what we came to call "hail berries" (misshapen berries). To my untrained palate, they tasted perfectly fine. Naturally, I asked KP why we were discarding them, and his response, while not entirely unexpected, was still astonishing (paraphrasing of course): "I don't need to know precisely what they do," he said, "but if there's even a chance they might diminish the wine by 1%, they're gone. And these? They look capable of much worse."

That unyielding spirit of his was, I must admit, my torment at Abtserde, the vineyard hit hardest by the hail. We spent an entire day sorting and picking a single row - granted, the rows were long, but the pace was glacial. The true enemy, though, wasn’t the relentless sorting, but the wasps. Those little demons made an already grueling task even more daunting, dodging their stings as we plucked berries one by one, like selecting pearls from a troubled sea. What we ended up with were, quite literally, tiny gems - "caviar" berries of purity. By day’s end, the sight was something to behold. Despite the torment, the hard work was unquestionably worth it. The 17’ Abtserde is my wine of the vintage.

I’ve had the 17’ Abtserde on numerous occasions but this takes the cake as the best (note to self: best to decant a young Abtserde hard). It is a marvel of purity and depth, with its nose evoking Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, and flint. These aromas reappear on the palate with a nearly overwhelming intensity, blending piquant brightness and mineral-rich concentration. With more air, a floral, bittersweet herbal note very typical of the vineyard appears (smells like the place even). As the evening unfolded, the wine seemed to grow younger, each glass more lively than the last. The final sip was almost painfully austere, like drinking pure limestone, its explosive palate held together by sharp acidity and a palpable, phenolic grip. The finish seemed endless. One of my best Keller experiences this year.
— 4 months ago

Lyle, Andrew and 12 others liked this
Ira Schwartz

Ira Schwartz Influencer Badge Premium Badge

@Aaron Tan A very enjoyable read.
Tom Casagrande

Tom Casagrande Influencer Badge

Great story and note!