Jay Kline

9.3

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of 90 minutes. The 2019 “Margheria” pours a pale garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with gorgeous notes of ripe red fruit: Morello cherry, raspberry, orange zest, roses, talcum powder, dried herbs, and dry earth. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long, super grippy and slightly savory. Ooooof, I love Azelia’s expression of Margheria. It’s so transparent, so elegant. Drink now with patience but better after 2029 and through 2059.

For those who care: Historically, Luigi Scavino (Azelia) tended to treat their wines slightly different, dependent upon MGA. Margheria was getting their most traditional treatment being aged exclusively in Slavonian botti. FWIW, I always felt this was their most exciting single MGA bottling. Now, I believe all of their single MGA’s are treated in the similar, aforementioned fashion. The results speak for themselves. — 21 hours ago

Jay Kline

9.5

In honor of the Beta Wine, Spring allocation day (the 2021 Lupina and Maus), I decided to check into the 2021 “Montecillo” which was released last Fall. Based off previous experience, I poured into a decanter about an hour prior to service and then enjoyed over then next five hours; and this just continued to slowly reveal more layers as the minutes rolled by. The 2021 pours a deep, slightly hazy ruby color with an opaque core; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of ripe and tart, mostly black fruit: currants (for dayzzzzz!), blackberries, Montmorency cherry, tobacco, pencil shavings, a touch of Poblano pepper, a kiss of VA, and abundant, racy minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is extremely long and grippy. Dark to the core, this wine. And yet, there is a depth to the soul that makes it so accessible. Like listening to Portishead, Live at the Roseland NYC. Profound. If Lupina, Maus, Paratus and Hamilton draw any similarities, this will be a really fun vintage of Ketan’s wines to follow for decades to come. Drink now with patience and through 2051. — 4 days ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Opened and decanted two hours prior to service; enjoyed over the course of a couple hours. The 1997 “Vigneto Brich Ronchi” pours a deep, hazy garnet color with an opaque core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears and some signs of sediment. On the nose, the wine is vinous with notes of ripe and desiccated black and red fruits: Blackberry, Morello cherry, bruised strawberry, dried roses, tar, leather, potting soil, and subtle warm spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. The finish is long and savory. This is in a lovely spot. Drink now through 2027. — 6 days ago

Jay Kline

9.1

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of 90 minutes. The wine pours, a deep, ruby color with a dark but transparent core; medium viscosity, with very light staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is youthful with notes of ripe red and some black fruits: raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, red flowers, licorice, warm, spices, and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium. To palate, better after 2030 and through 2045. — a day ago

Jay Kline

9.1

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course two hours. The 2023 Morgon (S) pours a brilliant ruby/purple color with a transparent core; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of ripe and tart red fruits: strawberry, raspberry, cherry, a touch of bubblegum, red flowers, licorice, black pepper, a mix of cool spices and rocky minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+. This is a more dense expression of Lapierre’s Morgon which isn’t a surprise considering the vintage. Quite lovely with chicken pâté. Drink now through 2037. — 2 days ago

Jay Kline

9.0

Opened about an hour before service and enjoyed over the course of a few hours. The 2020 pours a garnet color with a transparent core, medium+ with light staining. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of tart and ripe red fruits: Morello cherry, blackberries, tomato leaf, dried herbs, some warm spices and dry soil. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes form the nose. The finish is medium+. Lovely. Drink now through 2030. — 5 days ago

Jay Kline

9.4

It’s been almost 8 years since I last enjoyed the 2011 Asili and I’m happy to report that it’s still a stunner. Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of two hours. The wine pours a garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with powerful notes of ripe and tart red fruits: raspberries, strawberry, pomegranate, roses, tar, talcum powder, dried green herbs and dry earth. On the palate, the wine is one dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. This is gorgeous and it’s no wonder I thought so highly of it back in 2017. While this is firing on all cylinders right now, the future remains bright. Drink now through 2041+. Bottle 7924/13,333. — 7 days ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of three days. Consistent throughout. The 2019 “La Rocca” pours a bright, deep straw color with medium viscosity. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of ripe, squishy tropical and orchard fruit: pineapple, apricot, yellow flowers, nuts, saffron and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long, elegant with a silky texture. This worked wonders with homemade Runza’s. This is a significant step up from the Soave Classico. Drink now through 2034. — 2 days ago

Jay Kline

8.7

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of two days and consistent throughout. The 2023 Rosé pours a very pretty faint pink color; medium viscosity. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of fresh, ripe red, orchard fruits and melon fruit: raspberries, watermelon, limes, flowers and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium acidity. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is short. This is a refreshing, super quaffable rosé that makes me long for summer. Drink now. — 3 days ago

Jay Kline

9.5

This was one of those rare nights where I had zero obligations…so I decided it might be fun to grab one of the relative newcomers to my cellar and head down to Mertz, sit at the bar, and share with the staff. Upon arrival, I was met immediately by the incomparable Matt Brown who asked if I would like to sit next to Dan Morgan. “Morgan Ranch Dan Morgan? Uhhh…yuh!” I duly handed my bottle to Matt and he kindly introduced me to Dan. After exchanging some pleasantries, I sat down and suggested we open the Brisset and see what it’s about. Dan was game so we proceeded to enjoy the evening, covering a range of topics from travel to the state of our education system and much more. It should go without saying that we each enjoyed a couple of steaks from his ranch too. I mean, obviously.

Initially, we popped and poured a single glass. It was beautiful, particularly on the nose, but seemed a touch reticent on the palate so we elected to splash decant. We enjoyed this bottle over the course of several hours where it really started to thrill after getting a nice bit of air. The wine pours a deep ruby color with a deep but transparent core; medium viscosity, with very light staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with gorgeous, even unctuous, notes of ripe red (and some black) fruits: strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, Bing cherry, red flowers, licorice, warm spices, and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+. Wow…such a youthful beauty…and it’s already giving me some sugar. The quality is obvious, almost startling. Drink now with patience but better after 2032 and through 2052+. Thanks for the assist @Lyle Fass

P.S. I should provide the Morgan Ranch backstory. Located in Burwell, Nebraska, the Morgan Family were one of the very first producers of Japanese Wagyu cattle outside of Japan; Dan brought the first herd from Japan back in 1993. They are, to my knowledge, the only Wagyu producer that exports back into Japan. — 4 days ago