The House Of Independent Producers
Krug
Krug Collection Brut Champagne Blend 2002
Pym Rae
Tesseron Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2016
This is Alfred Tesseron’s (Owner of Pontet Canet) Napa Valley’s project on Mount Veeder. You can also clearly see Sugar Loaf from the property.
The previous owner of the property was the late comedian Robin Williams. Robin never made wine and the fruit was sold to other producers.
The name Pym-Rae is an homage to Robin Willams two children.
The Winemaker for Pym-Rae is the son of Jean-Michel (Winemaker of Pontet Canet), Thomas Comme. Thomas has taken out all the drip irrigation and dry farms all the fruit. He has some progressive ideas on farming fruit. Pym-Rae is also certified biodynamic and organic.
This 2016 inaugural vintage is just now about to be released.
The nose reveals; big and brooding dark currants, deep; blackberries, black raspberries, big black plum, purple fruit mix, blueberries, black cherries with poached strawberries. Grilled meats, anise to black licorice, sweet tarriness, touch of incense, burnt ambers, crushed dry rocks, dark, rich earth, cinnamon, clove, vanilla, limestone minerals, alluvial soils with nice, purple, dark flowers with violets and hints of lavender.
The body is huge, brooding and thick. Big, dark, meaty, tarry rounded tannins with dusty edges. The structure & tension say it’s big and meant to be well cellared. The length is nice and the balance sets in as it opens up but, will be much better with 5-10 years plus of cellaring. Dark currants, deep, ripe, lush & ruby; blackberries, black raspberries, big black plum, purple fruit mix, blueberries, black cherries with poached strawberries. Grilled meats, cracked pepper, anise to black licorice, sweet tarriness, black olive, touch of incense, burnt ambers, dark spice with palate heat, lots of crushed dry rocks, dark, rich earth, dry stones, dark chocolate, caramel, cinnamon, clove, vanilla, good presence of dry herbs, cigar box, lots of graphite, limestone minerals, dusty top soil, alluvial soils with nice, dry, withering purple, dark flowers with violets and hints of lavender. beautiful round acidity. The finish starts with ripe, lush fruit and slides into pronounced dry, powdery, tannins and earthiness. It persists until you put something else in your mouth. This is not a pop & pour wine. It needs a very long decant if you drink it young and really should be cellared 8-10 plus years.
Patience will increase my rating by 2-4 points. It is just too young and massive for me to give it a higher score. However, it has all the stuffing for greatness.
Photos of; the yard and estate vines above the main house, 2019 Cabernet grapes that will start harvesting in the next week, a look inside the house Robin built and the infinity pool and view from the terrace. — 5 years ago
Gaston Chiquet
Special Club Brut Champagne Blend 2007
This is Gaston’s Special Club. What does it mean when a Champagne is labeled as Special Club?
The Special Club, or Club Trésors de Champagne, was originally founded in 1971 by 12 of the oldest families of the Champagne region. Since then, the club has grown to include 29 producers committed to excellence in all aspects of production. This exclusive membership is only open to Recoltant Manipulants (a French designation for a producer of grower Champagne). Champagnes must be produced, bottled and aged at the member’s estate. The Special Club Champagnes represent the tête de cuvée (a premier bottling often carrying a vintage date) selection for each member.
Special Club Champagne designation means they are only made in outstanding vintages from grapes harvested from member’s own vineyards. Each producer must submit his wine to two blind tastings panels of esteemed oenologists and wine professionals. The still wines (vins clairs) are tasted first and if approved may be bottled in the uniquely-shaped Special Club bottle before undergoing secondary fermentation.
After a minimum of three years aging on lees, the wines are tasted again for final approval.
On the nose; green apple, bruised Bosc pear, touch of golden apple, pineapple, cream soda, light citrus, sea shells/spray, brioche, gray volcanic minerals, soft chalk, spring flowers & citrus blossoms.
The palate is soft, delicate, subtly rich with micro oxygenation. Green apple, bruised Bosc pear, bruised golden apple, pineapple, cream soda, light citrus, sea shells/spray, brioche, gray volcanic minerals that have teeth and dig deep into your palate, soft powdery chalk, spring flowers & citrus blossoms.
Photos of; the house of Gaston Chiquet, cellar-hand hand riddling bottles, Owner/Winemaker Nicolas Chiquet inspecting bottles and one of their Grand Cru Vineyard.
Producer notes...Nicolas farms 23 heactares in the Valle de la Marne in the villages of Ay, Dizy, Hautvillers and Mareuil-sur-Ay. All of the fruit (including that which is used in the non-vintage cuvee) comes from premier and grand cru grapes. Nicolas does not employ any oak aging at Gaston Chiquet; he believes that concentration, fruit maturity and malolactic fermentation impart enough body and texture to make aging in barrel unnecessary.
The vineyards are planted to equal (forty percent each) parts chardonnay, pinot meunier and twenty percent are planted to pinot noir. Gaston-Chiquet. He also produces a vintage dated chardonnay from 5 parcels on the western side of the grand cru village of Ay. Usually recognized as a grand cru village for pinot noir, these vines of chardonnay were planted in Ay in the 1930s.
In 1919, two brothers, Fernand and Gaston Chiquet winemakers came together to create their house Chiquet Brothers. They were ‘pioneers’ in Champagne, the very first winemakers to take the initiative, bold at the time, to keep their grapes, turn them into Champagne and sell their own wine. Nicolas Chiquet planted his first vines in 1746, and since then eight generations have have managed their house. Gaston Chiquet registered the company in 1935 and expanded the property with land in Aÿ, Cumières and Hautvillers. Gaston Chiquet is best known for making the only blanc de blancs from the Pinot village of Aÿ. Aÿ was the big name in the area long before wines became sparkling, and many were the kings and popes who counted Vin d’Aÿ as their favorite wine. The vineyards slope down steeply to the village by the Marne River, and the best locations are just over the town, sheltered from the wind and with maximum exposure to the sun. — 6 years ago
Charles Heidsieck
Millésimé Brut Rosé Champagne Blend 2006
My last bottle. When it comes to big house producers, Charles Heidsieck may very well be my favorite. This 2006 rosé has 8-10% still red wine in it, and spent about seven years before disgorgement.
This was opened alongside a Ulysse Collin Les Maillons (which is one of my favorite grower champagnes, yet I’m out at their increasing price point). The inherit sweetness here is so divine. More balanced than the bottle I opened 2-3yrs ago, yet more compact than the 2007 I opened a few months ago. Required about an hour to come in to its own. Salmon-colored in the glass with an intoxicating nose…strawberry shortbread, toasted pastries (cranberry scone), faint limestone. Typical CHeidsieck palate with richness but great focus…turns a bit darker red fruit driven but already possesses a mature-profile with nougat and spiced red fruits at the finish. Definitely some flair of orange zest too. Benchmark vintage rosé! — 2 years ago
Sandhi Wines
Bentrock Chardonnay 2017
Richer and more austere than expected of Sandhi. Vanilla lemon curd. Clear, though moderate oak. Med- acid, a touch too low to balance the oak. Sandhi’s house style evokes Chablis, and this is more white burg. It’s nice, but not what I was expecting and I prefer other Cali producers for this style. — 4 years ago
Alban Vineyards
Patrina Alban Estate Syrah 2010
With BBQ Chicken & Roasted, Rosemary Potatoes on opening night of the D&S Lounge.
John Alban’s wines remind me most of all the California producers/versions of North Rhone or Côte-Rôtie wines. Côte-Rôtie translates into for us as “Roasted Slope.” I assume that’s why his craft was dubbed as the “Original Rhône Ranger.”
Although this has the roasted characterizations of those wines, this certainly has more ripe, ruby style fruits. Also, more purple & blue fruits.
John’s higher end wines, Reva & Pondora remind me of the a French producer, Rostaing. Those two vineyard productions more closely mimic the Rostaing style.
The Patrina is a good intro into Alban wines. You can tell it is a direct descendant but, for far less money. The others are better but, this carries the best wine value in their line up.
The nose reveals; roasted & candied fruits of; blackberries, dark cherries, poached strawberries, black raspberries, black plum, black cherries, creamy raspberries & blue fruits. Used, French expresso roast grounds, anise to black licorice, purple fruit cola, coarse, ground, black pepper, dark spices, fresh tobacco leaf, cigar smoke, dry stems, dry crushed rocks, limestone & volcanic minerals, bay leaf, some sage, black tea, black olives, bandaid notes, saddle-wood to cedar, graphite notes with dark, fresh & withering, red, blue & purple candied florals, violets framed in a field of candied lavender.
The body is; lush, ruby, big and like velvet. The tannins are round but, still pack, chewy, tarry, meaty tannins that are 45-50% resolved. The structure, tension, length and balance are in a good place but, will hit a peak in five to seven years. The 2010 Patrina still has room for improvement and will last another 10-15 years. It is simply wine candy. Roasted & candied fruits of; blackberries, dark cherries, poached strawberries, black raspberries, black plum, black cherries, creamy raspberries & blue fruits. Used, French expresso roast grounds, anise to black licorice, purple fruit cola, coarse, ground, black pepper, dark spices with just the right amount of palate heat, grilled meats, chestnuts, fresh tobacco leaf, cigar smoke, dry stems, dry crushed rocks, moist clay, limestone & gritty volcanic minerals, dry stone, bay leaf, some sage, black tea, black olives, Steeped black tea, bandaid notes, saddle-wood to cedar, graphite notes with dark, fresh & withering, red, blue & purple candied florals, violets framed in a field of candied lavender. The acidity is phat & round. It holds the slightly elevated alcohol level nicely. The finish is excellent & consistent wire to wire. It’s long, ruby, candied fruits with just the right balance of earth that persists endlessly.
Just misses 9.4.
Photos of; the best room in our house for 6+ months of the year, our backyard. Aka, the D&S Lounge on Memorial Day Weekend 2020. — 4 years ago
School House Vineyard
Mezcolanza Zinfandel Blend 2016
So good, this is time-travel Zinfandel, just like the better producers made it in the 70s. (I don’t know how the trend got to the point where 15%+ jam monsters are the norm, but it did.) This has a nice youthful saturated color. Nose is very pure, spicy blackberry, with nose-tingly acids showing, spice, and loads of crushed stone minerality. At once lively and rich in the mouth, it’s got great, focused brambly Zin fruit and crisp—yes, crisp—acids. Bone dry. A bit of tannic structure and a nice rocky, gravelly note. So damn good. Go Bruins! — 2 years ago
Gallimard Père et Fils
Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Noirs Champagne Pinot Noir
A smaller, independent house located in the Côte des Bar, the majority of Gallimard’s vineyard holdings are planted to Pinot Noir with a little but of Chardonnay. This particular designation, their Blanc de Noir presents as a light copper, salmon color; it’s actually quite striking. I had to wonder if there was some skin contact and come to find out, they slightly macerate the grapes in the press…so there you have it. The nose is quite pretty with strawberry and white peach. The palate is quite round and well endowed with white peach; typical of wines from this most southern part of Champagne. That being said, there is a freshness here that I found rather compelling thanks to a lovely spine of acid. The finish provides saline minerals which I found rather endearing. No disgorgment data was obvious on the bottle, which, anymore these days is sort of a bummer. I think all producers should state at least some basic info on the labels of their NV wines. But I digress. This was an easy Champagne to like and definitely something I would drink again — 3 years ago
Hendricks Wines
Gold Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
A good follow up to the 2008 Forts de Latour.
Great bottle that shows beauty of the 2012 Napa Valley vintage managed by the right hands.
Charles Hendricks is maybe one of the most under the radar producers in the Napa Valley and certainly shouldn’t.
This wine is $125 in futures. I can think of other Napa Cabernets that cost much more that are not nearly as good.
Charles does not make this bottling every year...only when he has the right quality of fruit.
His wines always drink well young and will improve with the right bottle evolution depending on varietal and vintage.
This 12 is a gorgeous, sexy wine immediately upon entry. Beautiful round, supple tannins. Perfectly ripe; blackberries, black raspberries, dark cherries, plum and blueberries. Black licorice, sweet tarriness, Asian & Indian spices, just the right amount of barrel selection/toast that bring out soft baking spices of; cinnamon, nutmeg, clove & vanillin, soft earthiness of; dry crushed rocks, loamy soils, limestone & volcanics. Suede leather, some fresh tobacco & shades of graphite with fresh; dark, red, blue & purple florals. The acidity is round and near perfect. The finish is; elegant, well knitted & balanced in fruit in earth, polished and excellent wire to wire settling onto mid dark spice on the long set.
Photos of; the Hope & Grace tasting room in downtown Yountville (Charles makes H&G as well), Charles doing the heavy lifting of winemaking and my favorite Pollock like painting that used to be behind their tasting bar and now hangs in Charles house. — 4 years ago
Château Duhart Milon
Pauillac Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot Blend 2006
The 06 vintage was more highly praised by the Bordelais than it delivered. That’s not to say, some producers didn’t deliver.
This 06 is not at its peak...still needs a few years. Will it be a wine that blows you away? Not likely but, it will deliver nice fruit, earth & balance. Especially, with a Ribeye.
The nose shows; ripe; blackberries, dark cherries, black raspberries, baked strawberries, dry cranberries & some black plum. Saddle-wood, limestone minerals, dry stones, cinnamon, soft spice, light vanilla, black rich earth, touch of black licorice and red & dark fresh florals.
The body is round and a little lean but puts on weight with food and decanting. The structure, length & tension are falling into place. The fruits are ripe and expressive. Blackberries, dark cherries, black raspberries, baked strawberries, haunting blue fruits, dry cranberries & some black plum. Saddle-wood, touch herbaceous, mint, limestone minerals, dry clay, dry stones, cinnamon, soft spice, cola, light vanilla, black rich earth, touch of black licorice and red & dark fresh florals. The acidity is round and beautiful. The finish is on the leaner side but, well balanced and lasts a full minute. 9.1 without the Ribeye, 9.2 with it.
Photos of, Duhart Milon, Cabernet ready to to be pressed, wine making facilities and their barrel room.
Producer history and notes...the Rothschild family is divided into two sects for lack of a better word. There are the ones that own Mouton Rothschild and Cleric Milon etc. and the other owns Lafite and Duhart. The two sides of the families don’t necessarily get along. However, they are two of the oldest/wealthiest families in recorded history.
Duhart Milon was originally known only as Chateau Milon. At one time the estate was the second wine of Chateau Lafite.
The story about how this came to be is interesting. The owner of Lafite at that time was the Marquis Nicolas-Alexandre de Segur. King Louis XV called him “The Wine Prince” because of his extensive vineyard holdings in Bordeaux. The Milon vineyards were well regarded but, not as good as Lafite, which is how the wine came to be thought of as the second wine for Lafite.
In 1815, the property was considered by some people as a fourth growth Bordeaux wine in the making. In those days, the wine was sold under the name of Chateau Mandavy-Milon. Between 1830 and 1840, the Casteja family inherited the estate.
The label of Duhart Milon, according to family tradition came about from an old legend written about one of their ancestors, Sir Duhart. Sir Duhart, was rumored to have been a pirate for Louis XV. He retired in Pauillac. The “Pirate’s House” on the Pauillac port existed up to the 1950’s. That original building inspired the label for the Duhart-Milon wines.
The Casteja family remained in possession of Duhart Milon until the first part of the 20th century. At the time, Chateau Duhart Milon was one of larger Pauillac estates with around 50 hectares of vines.
In 1937, the result of successive inheritances led to the sale of Duhart Milon. The Left Bank property went through five different owners in just 25 years. As well, the vineyards were split up and with the frost of 1956, the quality of Duhart Milon continued declining until the Rothschild family purchased the property in 1962.
At that time of the sale, Chateau Duhart Milon included 110 hectares of land, of which only 17 hectares were planted with vines. The entire vineyard was in desperate need of replanting. Major renovations were urgently needed in the vineyards, which demanded work on the drainage and replanting.
The size of their vineyards were also increased with the purchase of other parcels adding to the size of their Medoc holdings. New cellars needed to be built as well.
Chateau Duhart Milon remains one of the few 1855 Classified Growth estates without an actual Chateau. At Duhart, all you will find are the cellars, vatting rooms and barrel storages.
During the period of 1970 to 2000, the vineyards nearly doubled in size! Additionally, they constructed new cellars, renovated and modernized their wine making facilities as well in 2003. By 2008, the wine of Duhart Milon increased in quality, stature and price.
Much of the price increase had to do with the association with Chateau Lafite Rothschild, which had by that time, become the most in-demand, collectible wine in China. By the time the 2015 vintage was offered, prices had dropped to a more affordable price level due to changes in Chinese laws regarding client gifts/bribes.
The 152 hectare vineyard of Chateau Duhart Milon includes; 76 hectares of vines planted to 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. This makes Chateau Duhart Milon one of the few 1855 Classified Growths with only two grape varieties planted in their vineyards.
The average age of the vines are 30 years old. The vineyard is planted to a vine density of 7,500 vines per hectare.
Duhart Milon vineyards are located in northern Pauillac, on the western side of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, on the Milon hillside, which is not far from the Carruades plateau...now Lafite’s second wine. This places the vineyard quite close to Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Clerc Milon. However, because of micro climates, this is a slightly cooler terroir, due to its northern exposure.
The naturally cooler soils provides more freshness to the wine, and allows for later picking. The terroir of Chateau Duhart Milon is a combination of gravel, sand and limestone soils. The Duhart Milon vineyards are unique in Pauillac, as the vines are for the most part, located in 1 single, large parcel.
The vinification of Chateau Duhart Milon takes place in temperature controlled stainless vats. Malolactic fermentation takes place in vat. Chateau Duhart Milon is then aged in an average of 50% new French oak barrels for 14 to 16 months, depending on the vintage.
There is a second wine, Moulin de Duhart, that was created in 1986. There is also a third wine produced by the estate, Baron de Milon. — 6 years ago
Vanessa
A special BIRTHDAY treat for this Champagne lover and my #1 guy!!
Krug is a Champagne House specializing in producing “prestige cuvees,” which are the product of strict and meticulous practices in the vineyard and winery, designed to promote utmost quality even at the possible detriment of a lower yield and lengthier (more costly) production process.
In Champagne, a “prestige cuvée,” or “tête de cuvée,” signifies the producer’s top, most exclusive wine, which could be vintage-dated (fruit from a single year) or non-vintage (blend of fruit from multiple years).
This particular cuvée is called “Ode to Nature,” like liquid poetry paying tribute to the 2002 vintage, which was notably generous with its warm, relatively dry conditions (in an otherwise marginal climate), supporting a healthy grape ripening process.
It’s a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay, and 21% Meunier – all harvested in 2002 - and was aged in the cellar for 13 years before release.
Julie Cavil has served in the important role of Cellar Master (Chef de Cave) at Krug since 2020, after an early career in public relations and business, followed by years of education in oenology, positions with other producers in Champagne, and 14 years in the cellar of Krug leading up to her current role. Her story is inspiring to say the least!
Now on to our (abbreviated) tasting note… This wine has a gorgeous golden hue with a fine, persistent mousse. Aromas and flavors show depth and complexity with notes of lemon curd, baked yellow apple, desiccated white rose petals, cream, toast, brioche, marzipan, pie crust, and almond. It has a creamy texture on the palate and long, elegant finish. It’s drinking so well right now.
Cheers to sharing wines you love with the people you love!
— 10 months ago