Jay Kline

9.5

The Scavino family’s holdings in the Rocche dell’Annuziata MGA have always been quite special and at Paolo Scavino, it’s bottled as a Riserva. This 2016 was popped and poured and enjoyed over a several hour period. It pours a deep ruby with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with powerful notes of dark cherry, red roses, some tar, dried herbs, gentle warm spices and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with high tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. There’s wonderful concentration and the finish is grippy, long and delicious. As far as Riserva’s go, this is a winner. And, because this is a 2016, you can drink now (with some patience) if you wanna enjoy in its relative youth but this will undoubtedly last for decades.

Over the last 70+ years, Enrico Scavino was a force behind the family’s expansion in the Barolo region. And while he was never been shy about innovation (Enrico was one of the “Barolo Boys” after all), he was a bit more judicious with his use of new French oak; careful to ensure each vineyard’s story was being told. Increasingly, there has been an even greater lean towards a more traditional touch with less time spent in barrique (very little of it new) and more time spent in botti. And while the quality has never really been an argument, the results are evident in the glass and I’ve been impressed with the wine of the last several years. But I digress, the real news is that Enrico passed away in late February which means Piemonte has lost yet another legend.
— 24 days ago

Jay Kline

9.3

The “V.S. Caterina” is a single vineyard located in the southern most portion of the Lazzarito MGA, in Serralunga d’Alba. This is considered a monopole of sorts since Guido Porro is the sole producer from this vineyard. Geographically speaking, the holdings are ideal with great southwestern exposure, located close to the village of Lazzarito and right next to Vietti’s holdings.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over a period that lasted a couple of hours. The 2015 pours a bright, reflective ruby color with some hits of garnet towards the rim and a transparent core. Medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears and no signs of sediment. On the nose, ripe cherries, strawberries, loads of roses, dried green herbs, and gravely earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and savory. Superb balance. I didn’t buy many 2015’s from Barolo or Barbaresco because I didn’t really like them on release and they didn’t seem to have structure to carry the day. And while the latter may yet be true for extended aging, the 2015’s have been strutting their stuff over the last year, showing off all their solar glory. Drink now and over the next 7 years with ease. — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Selected off the list at Boiler Room. Giacomo Fenocchio’s holdings in the Bussia MGA reside within the sub zones of Bussia Sottana (of which they enjoy some of the best parcels) and that of Munie. Opened about 30 minutes before service; no decant and no formal notes. The 2014 “Bussia” from G. Fenocchio starts off a little shy, but it gains weight and significant aromatic character with time in the glass. Bright cherries, slightly on the more tart side with tar over roses. The body seems a little demure early on but it eventually fleshes out and becomes almost chewy! The structure I want and expect from Barolo is there too with lovely acid and stiff tannins. The finish is long and savory. Last sip was the best. This was quite a lovely example of 2014 and a fine accompaniment to bone-in pork chops and Morgan Ranch beef cheeks. Drink now with some patience and over the next ten or so years. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Another producer to inherit some vineyards from Verset was Thiérry Allemand who purchased Noëls holdings in Reynard. That vineyard is the cornerstone for this wine. The 1999 Allemand “Reynard” is still full of fresh brambles, some cow pasture, and beautiful purple flowers. It’s sanguine with inorganic earth and gentle spices. Bangin’ with venison, umami bomb, potato and pearl onion. This is gorgeous and should be outstanding through 2040+. — a month ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Petit & Bajan have been one of those “growers” to watch for a few years now. A literal marriage of Chardonnay (Richard Petit) and Pinot Noir (Véronique Bajan) with some mentoring from the one and only Ansleme Selosse makes for a pretty compelling story. As it turns out, the wines are pretty darned good! Popped and poured. The “Nuit Blanche” is a BdB showcase of Petit’s family holdings in Avize with some fruits coming from Cramant and Oger as well. The wine pours a light straw color with a persistent mousse. On the nose, mix of lemon curd, white peach, limes, pear, almonds and brioche with chalky minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with really good acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long with distinctive chalky minerals. This was very nice and I look foreword to tracking their wines. Bottled on July 2, 2015. Disgorged November 2021. — 4 months ago

Jay Kline

9.2

This bottle of 2010 Roberto Voerzio “Brunate” was generously provided by a friend who wanted to share this with me after service along with a few others from Tasting Group. Opened, splash decanted and consumed over three hours; served side-by-side with the 2010 Pecchenino “Le Coste”. The Voerzio “Brunate” was a relative hermit. Even after three hours in the decanter, it remained a bit of a wallflower while the Pecchenino was a whirling dervish on the dance floor. The classic structure of 2010 and the austerity of “Brunate” made for an impenetrable fortress, keeping the fruit under lock and key…and behind a moat and a drawbridge and stone walls with soldiers and trebuchets for that matter. Despite all of that, one does get the sense there is a deep core of high quality fruit recessed underneath the surface. It’s dark and mysterious…and simply hard to access at this moment in time. For what it’s worth, Voerzio’s holdings in “Brunate” come from the western portion of the MGA, on the La Morra side, right next to Oddero’s holdings. Frankly, this is going to need a long, long time in the cellar before it shows really well. If i had any in my cellar, I wouldn’t touch again until 2030. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.4

As Noël Verset started to divest in his vines, there were several producers who came away with some real treasures. The most famous was Franck Balthazar who was able to purchase Verset’s prized holdings in Chaillots. Perhaps less known is Auguste Clape also purchased some ex-Verset vines in the Sabarotte lieu-dit. The 1997 Clape pours a much deeper color, nearly opaque purple. Dense brambles with some black licorice, lavender pastilles and minerals. Somewhat reticent even at 25+ years old. The venison, umami bomb, potato and pearl onion helped coax this Clape from slumber though. Drinking well now but easily has the stuffing to see 2037 and possibly beyond. — a month ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Brought from my cellar to dinner at Mertz. Massolino’s “Serralunga d’Alba” is a blend of their rather remarkable vineyard holdings in some of the more revered sites in the Serralunga commune. It’s also a perfect example of the 2010 vintage which, to my palate, may turn out to be a vintage that will live 50+ years.

Poured into a decanter about 45min prior to dinner. The 2010 “Serralunga d’Alba” pours a bright garnet with a transparent core. On the nose, developing with bright pomegranate, cranberry, Morello cherry, roses, tar, dried herbs and dried earth. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long, grippy and shows surprising elegance despite the remarkable structure. And that’s the hallmark of the 2010 vintage: there’s enough structure to support the Library of Congress and yet, there is an undeniable charm thanks to the bright fruit and pretty aromatics. Drink now with patience and enjoy through 2050+ because seriously, this has some real substance. — 2 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Brought from my cellar and opened just before dinner at Casa Bovina where it was decanted with the expectation that it would be paired with our “Della Terre” course of duck and our “Bistecca” course of Certified Piedmontese rib cap. In the glass, the 2005 Luigi Baudana, “Baudana” pours a gorgeous, almost youthful garnet with a transparent core. On the nose, oooof…be still my beating heart! Cherries, strawberries, and blackberries with tar, truffles, roses and earth. I could just sit and sniff this for hours; my God it is absolutely divine! On the palate, the wine is bone dry and the tannins are well integrated now; acid at medium+. The finish is long and silky. What a gorgeous, elegant example of the 2005 vintage that comes across as Burgundian as any I’ve had from Serralunga d’Alba. This is drinking well now and will continue to do so well past 2030 but unless you have a bunch of this in your cellar, why wait?

It should be noted that Luigi was still responsible for the winemaking back in 2005. Just a few years later, the Vajra family took over and they continue to carry on the tradition and spirit of this small, traditional producer as Luigi and Fiorina have since retired and have no heir. The Baudana’s holdings lie on opposite ends of the Baudana MGA. Production remains minuscule; maybe 300 cases a year. — a year ago

Daniel Bloom

9.0

Savory impression, bready, smoky,
Nice as a new year’s starter.
Older, 2012, 2015,2016, holdings. — a year ago