Jay Kline

9.3

Mention “Monvigliero” around any Barolo nut and there is a better than good chance you might witness the following behavior: waxing poetic in hushed tones, sighing, swooning…possibly fainting. Monvigliero truly is the zeitgeist. For over 40 years, Comm. G.B. Burlotto (and Fratelli Alessandria before them), have quietly been making great single-vineyard Monvigliero and it was only in the last 10-15 years that the world started to catch on to the magic that was happening in Verduno. In the last handful of years alone, there have been a flurry of producers with holdings in Monvigliero that have released their own single-vineyard expression. However, what many may not realize is that Enrico Scavino and his daughters have been producing a “Monvigliero” since 2007, making them one of the first half dozen to do so. I’m only suggesting that the Scavino’s knew there was something special there well before the hype train came to the station.

Popped and poured; enjoyed with dinner and over the course of a couple hours. The 2020 “Monvigliero” pours a deep garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. The nose is gorgeous; seemingly darker fruited with blackberry, pomegranate, black cherry lozenges, roses and spice box. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannin (though friendly) and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and lithe. An elegant wine and downright delicious. I think Paolo Scavino did a fabulous job of capturing the synergy of what Mother Nature gave in the 2020 vintage and the source of their fruit in the heart of the Monvigliero MGA. These are very early days for this wine but it’s already a joy to drink now but I expect this will continue a lovely evolution through 2038, easy. — 3 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Another producer to inherit some vineyards from Verset was Thiérry Allemand who purchased Noëls holdings in Reynard. That vineyard is the cornerstone for this wine. The 1999 Allemand “Reynard” is still full of fresh brambles, some cow pasture, and beautiful purple flowers. It’s sanguine with inorganic earth and gentle spices. Bangin’ with venison, umami bomb, potato and pearl onion. This is gorgeous and should be outstanding through 2040+. — 8 months ago

Jay Kline

9.3

The “V.S. Caterina” is a single vineyard located in the southern most portion of the Lazzarito MGA, in Serralunga d’Alba. This is considered a monopole of sorts since Guido Porro is the sole producer from this vineyard. Geographically speaking, the holdings are ideal with great southwestern exposure, located close to the village of Lazzarito and right next to Vietti’s holdings.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over a period that lasted a couple of hours. The 2015 pours a bright, reflective ruby color with some hits of garnet towards the rim and a transparent core. Medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears and no signs of sediment. On the nose, ripe cherries, strawberries, loads of roses, dried green herbs, and gravely earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and savory. Superb balance. I didn’t buy many 2015’s from Barolo or Barbaresco because I didn’t really like them on release and they didn’t seem to have structure to carry the day. And while the latter may yet be true for extended aging, the 2015’s have been strutting their stuff over the last year, showing off all their solar glory. Drink now and over the next 7 years with ease. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.2

As someone who has been described as an Italophile, I’m particularly enamored with the wines of Piemonte. You’ve probably all heard the saying, “the more you learn, the less you seem to know”. Yeah, I don’t know that it really makes sense. Yet, it seems to apply more and more these days. This wonderful bottle from Giovanni Rosso was an entire lesson of its own for me.

Okay, so I’ve been enjoying the Barolo’s from Giovanni Rosso for almost a decade now and it was not until this bottle that I realized this is not their “classico” but instead, a blend of their holdings exclusively throughout Serralunga d’Alba. A sort of “super classico” (I just made that up) I guess one could say. Since the mid-1990’s, they have been best known for their Serralunga parcels in Cerretta (Bricco). Later, in 2004, they were the first to release a single-vineyard bottling of the Serra MGA (not to be confused with the La Serra MGA in La Morra 🙄). More recently, they have picked up parcels in other Serralunga MGA’s including Costabella, Sorano, Lirano, Damiano, as well as the up and coming Meriame and their most famous of all, Vignarionda (the only other MGA from which they do a single-vineyard besides the aforementioned Serra and Cerretta). I know…it’s a lot to absorb. Let’s just get to the notes.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of an hour. The 2019 “Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba” pours a pale garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with powerful, heady notes of red (mostly) and black fruit: fresh raspberries, pomegranate, blood orange, roses, talcum powder, freshly tarred roof and dry earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long. This is a powerful expression of the 2019 vintage that needs some time to settle down. The fruit profile is quite big but the classic Serralunga structure is there in the background. You can drink now if you’re a hedonist (guilty) but I suspect a bigger reward to come from 2029-2040+. — 3 months ago

Jay Kline

9.4

As Noël Verset started to divest in his vines, there were several producers who came away with some real treasures. The most famous was Franck Balthazar who was able to purchase Verset’s prized holdings in Chaillots. Perhaps less known is Auguste Clape also purchased some ex-Verset vines in the Sabarotte lieu-dit. The 1997 Clape pours a much deeper color, nearly opaque purple. Dense brambles with some black licorice, lavender pastilles and minerals. Somewhat reticent even at 25+ years old. The venison, umami bomb, potato and pearl onion helped coax this Clape from slumber though. Drinking well now but easily has the stuffing to see 2037 and possibly beyond. — 8 months ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Brought from my cellar and opened just before dinner at Casa Bovina where it was decanted with the expectation that it would be paired with our “Della Terre” course of duck and our “Bistecca” course of Certified Piedmontese rib cap. In the glass, the 2005 Luigi Baudana, “Baudana” pours a gorgeous, almost youthful garnet with a transparent core. On the nose, oooof…be still my beating heart! Cherries, strawberries, and blackberries with tar, truffles, roses and earth. I could just sit and sniff this for hours; my God it is absolutely divine! On the palate, the wine is bone dry and the tannins are well integrated now; acid at medium+. The finish is long and silky. What a gorgeous, elegant example of the 2005 vintage that comes across as Burgundian as any I’ve had from Serralunga d’Alba. This is drinking well now and will continue to do so well past 2030 but unless you have a bunch of this in your cellar, why wait?

It should be noted that Luigi was still responsible for the winemaking back in 2005. Just a few years later, the Vajra family took over and they continue to carry on the tradition and spirit of this small, traditional producer as Luigi and Fiorina have since retired and have no heir. The Baudana’s holdings lie on opposite ends of the Baudana MGA. Production remains minuscule; maybe 300 cases a year. — 2 years ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Splash decanted immediately prior to service; enjoyed over the course of several hours. “Acclivi” is a blend of selected fruit from several MGA’s in the commune of Verduno, including fruit from some of their prized holdings in Monvigliero as well as Boscotto, Neirane and Rocche dell’Olmo (which is an MGA that is no longer bottled on its own by any producer).

The 2017 pours a pretty, light garnet color with a transparent core; medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with loads of roses, pomegranate, cranberry, talcum powder, exotic spices, pastilles, orange rind and dry gravely earth. On the palate, the wine is bone dry with high tannin and acid that only seems to build over an hour of air.

Over the last 20 years, there have been few vintages with less love than 2017. There were significant issues related to frost in the Spring and the vines had to deal with a very hot growing season. Yet, despite these challenges, Fabio was able to nurture an ethereal beauty which only gains power and grace as the hours roll by. Effortlessly elegant. Drink now with lots of patience (air) and through 2042. I would not decant or you’ll miss parts of the ride. — 4 months ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Foillard’s “Cuvée Corcelette” comes from the eponymous climate in Morgan where Jean’s holdings include vines over 80 years of age. This is a stunning wine that is so Foillard in style: fresh and deep.

Popped and poured; enjoyed over two days. Consistent over both days but seemed to round out a little more on Day 2. The wine pours a deep, hazy ruby with a near opaque core and an almost fuchsia rim; medium viscosity with light staining of the tears and some signs of sediment. On the nose, the wine is developing with sensational notes of macerated raspberries, red flowers, carrot juice, celery root, chanterelles, granitic earth and minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+ and so easy to love. Super balanced. Drink now and over the next 10+ years. — 7 months ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Petit & Bajan have been one of those “growers” to watch for a few years now. A literal marriage of Chardonnay (Richard Petit) and Pinot Noir (Véronique Bajan) with some mentoring from the one and only Ansleme Selosse makes for a pretty compelling story. As it turns out, the wines are pretty darned good! Popped and poured. The “Nuit Blanche” is a BdB showcase of Petit’s family holdings in Avize with some fruits coming from Cramant and Oger as well. The wine pours a light straw color with a persistent mousse. On the nose, mix of lemon curd, white peach, limes, pear, almonds and brioche with chalky minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with really good acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long with distinctive chalky minerals. This was very nice and I look foreword to tracking their wines. Bottled on July 2, 2015. Disgorged November 2021. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.2

This bottle of 2010 Roberto Voerzio “Brunate” was generously provided by a friend who wanted to share this with me after service along with a few others from Tasting Group. Opened, splash decanted and consumed over three hours; served side-by-side with the 2010 Pecchenino “Le Coste”. The Voerzio “Brunate” was a relative hermit. Even after three hours in the decanter, it remained a bit of a wallflower while the Pecchenino was a whirling dervish on the dance floor. The classic structure of 2010 and the austerity of “Brunate” made for an impenetrable fortress, keeping the fruit under lock and key…and behind a moat and a drawbridge and stone walls with soldiers and trebuchets for that matter. Despite all of that, one does get the sense there is a deep core of high quality fruit recessed underneath the surface. It’s dark and mysterious…and simply hard to access at this moment in time. For what it’s worth, Voerzio’s holdings in “Brunate” come from the western portion of the MGA, on the La Morra side, right next to Oddero’s holdings. Frankly, this is going to need a long, long time in the cellar before it shows really well. If i had any in my cellar, I wouldn’t touch again until 2030. — 2 years ago