Jay Kline

9.6

I’ve said before that the wines of Chateau Rayas are almost singular in the AOC; certainly one of the purest expressions of Grenache in the world. However, there is another producer that for me, might be an even more archetypal expression of the character of Chateauneuf-du-Pape: Henri Bonneau. Henri’s wines were also predominately Grenache however, they are denser and darker, particularly the Cuvée Marie Beurrier. This is probably more to do with the small addition of other local varieties along with terroir for Mrie Beurrier (Courthézon). Henri had strong feelings about varieties, vine age and cellar practices. He didn’t really like Syrah in CdP (though he had a little of it). He didn’t like ancient vines (most were 30-50 years old and would be torn out and replanted if they were getting up there in the age range) and he believed in extended aging in wood, a collection of very old barrels and foudres. Regardless of whether one agrees or disagrees with his approach, the results were undeniably special.

Opened prior to dinner; enjoyed over the course of several hours. The 2000 “Cuvée Marie Beurrier” pours a deep garnet color with a near opaque core; medium+ viscosity with light staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing (still!). Layered notes of dark brambles, black cherry, garrigue, dried red flowers, beef stew with all the veggies and mixed inorganic earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is forever long. This is tremendously well balanced and a wine that I just wanted to keep coming back to…and I did. Drink now through 2040. — 2 months ago

Austin Hohnke

9.3

I’m a sucker for Raffault’s wines and this rarity is no exception. Made from a single old vine parcel in the Picasses vineyard, this wine is aged in 500 litre (1-5 year old) barrels instead of the large foudres used for Picasses.

Dynamite wine with more (but still restrained) oak use. Would love to get my hands on more of this and lay it down as it’s still super true to the house style. Wild and ageworthy! — 3 years ago

Martinez

9.2

Excellent Priorat. Blend of Garnacha (60%) and Cariñena (40%) from the Les Planetes vineyard, a northeast-facing plot on slate/llicorella soils in Porrera. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for 17 months in oak foudres and clay amphorae. Dark fruit, minerals (graphite) and smoke on the nose. Some floral notes. Full-bodied, round, structured. Good freshness — 3 years ago

Dominique Elena

9.5

2 yr op frabs eiken varrels, daarna op foudres. 6-9 jr in totaal. In de geur, veel fruit! Prachtig parfum. Wild berries, red. Zwarte peper, nu al leer. Rijp, mooie tannine, packed with flavour but still light. Heel verteerbaar. Saltiness. Savoury, maar vooral heel levendig fruit. Volgens wijnmaker kan deze heel lang rijpen. — a year ago

Peter van den Besselaar

9.1

Vintage 2010 | This reserva is made of 90% Sangiovese, 10% mix Canaiola and Colorino. Ripened on foudres from Slavonian and French oak. The wine has a velvety taste, vanilla and spices. I drank this Chianti several times, at this age I am really enthusiastic! Paired with spaghetti and meatballs in Napolitanen tomatosauce. — 2 years ago

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9.4

The 1994 Malbec Estrella, from Luján de Cuyo, was aged for 16 years in old foudres and bottled in 2010. Garnet in color with a brick-dust sheen. The bouquet offers aromas of licorice, camphor, black olives, dried flowers and dates. Complex and silky in the mouth, it has developed well. The tannins are rounded and polished, resulting in a gentle texture. Delivers mild flavors but plenty of nuance. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, January 2023) — 3 years ago

Jeroen Koenen

9.4

Bright golden yellow. Candied lemon, applesauce, apricot jam, honey, soft spices, white almonds, funky minerals, petrol, old foudres.
Very vivid and well balanced, great freshness, cristalline, creamy, ‘sweet but not sweet’ indeed. Classic, charming, pretty. — 2 years ago

Mark S.

8.9

Garnet edge. Oak, spices, medical herbs. Earthy. Fragrant wood. Complexity. High viscosity. Taste: Strawberry, cherry, plum. Tannic. I couldn’t find it is Gamay. Domaine Richard Rottiers Foudres Moulin a Vent Gamay 17 @3960, AD, 240601 — 2 years ago

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9.4

Saturated ruby-red. The highly expressive bouquet conveys vibrant, mineral- and spice-accented red and blue fruits, candied flowers and succulent herbs aromas. Gently chewy and incisive boysenberry, bitter cherry and fresh bay flavors deepen and become sweeter with air. The floral note recurs on a very long, mineral finish that's framed by subtly gripping, fine-grained tannins. Made with 39% whole clusters and raised in a 65/35 mix of neutral oak foudres and concrete tanks. (Josh Raynolds, Vinous, January 2023) — 3 years ago

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9.4

The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was aged in 75% new oak with a touch more matured in foudres. It includes 55% whole bunches. This has a slight confit-like aroma on the nose, plush cranberry and wild strawberry intermingling with cassis and violet; aromatically, this is the more precocious recent vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine tannins, clean and pure with excellent acidity keeping everything on an even keel towards the finish. The 2018 has a caressing texture and is very persistent. I might quibble and say that I just find the nose a little trop, but the palate is superb. Tasted at the Les Carmes Haut-Brion vertical at the château. (Neal Martin, Vinous, October 2022)
— 4 years ago