Barolo Nebbiolo

Bright Ruby with aromas of dark fruits, spices, oak and floral notes. On the palate flavors of cherry and plum with notes of herb pepper, tobacco, cedar and cacao. Long finish, nice balance with fine soft tannins, ending with oak and earthy notes. Needs a few more years in the bottle!

Infanticide I know and yet this is showing the hell up even now. I’d do it again.

When a bottle of wine is this old, one can never have too high of expectations. There are far too many variables to consider when it comes to whether it will even be drinkable, let alone enjoyable. Particularly when it’s a wine from an unheralded vintage like 1953. As someone who has been fortunate enough to have tried many old bottles over the last ten or so years, I have had my share of duds; even bottles from a good vintage with strong provenance. However, every now and again, a bottle will surprise and this 1953 Barolo from Pio Cesare went way beyond my expectations. It had many stories to tell.

There was a tremendous amount of sediment but I had allowed that to settle to the bottom by leaving it upright for a couple of days. We pulled the cork few hours before service and decanted. The cork was very typical of wines from the region at the time; short and stubby. With the help of a Durand, we were able to extract in one piece and, to my astonishment, the cork was only 1/3 saturated. And then, whoa…what a lovely perfume. It was alive! The ’53 pours a light copper color and has a largely transparent core. On the nose, the fruit is still playing a major role however it was almost completly desiccated now: cherry, apricot, prune, tar, dried roses, dried leather, and mushrooms. On the palate the tannins are almost imperceptible and completely resolved. The acid is lovely; the preserver of life. The notes from the nose were confirmed and there was a long, satisfying finish. There was substance and a real energy about it. Old…and yet so full of life! I want to be absolutely clear, this wasn’t just a novel experience. This was a practical one as well as it paired perfectly with tajarin tossed with shiitake mushrooms as well as a bit of bone-in Wagyu New York Strip from Morgan Ranch. Everyone at the table was smitten by this septuagenarian of a Barolo; even those who had no prior experience with old wines. Drink now.

For what it’s worth, I’ve had this bottle in my cellar for a little over a year, when I was fortunate to have come across one with decent provenance. This is a wine I will very likely never see again but it was so wonderful to have had the experience and I’ll cherish this memory forever.

Solid

93 points

This Barolo wine has a medium-dark violet color, with a sort of brick red tint to it. Aromas of plums, blueberries, cassis and flowers come forth on the nose. The palate is black fruit and earth, with a peppery note and a firm set of tannins. A savory aspect rides along with the fruit, and there is a fine acidity which will make for some delicious pairings with food.

Fresh strawberries that literally disintegrate into leather dust. Like a mirage. Thanks Nebbiolo for teasing me…. This wine is so dry. Basil leaf, crushed herbs. Pair with a Pekingese. They seem little, sweet, and goofy, but historically they used to hide in the sleeves of the Chinese emperors and courtiers to attack people they felt threatened by…. That’s this wine.

Lovely glass of wine. Completely resolved. Leather. Strawberries.

I think probably it worth another 5 years in the cellar. Smooth, intense spirit fruits, pretty much alcoholic.

Delightful with nice development.

‘10 is just a classic Barolo! 100% Nebbiolo, rich Ruby red color with aromas of black fruit, herb, floral, cedar and spice notes. On the palate flavors of blackberry, cherry and ripe raspberry, with notes of leather, spice, cracked pepper and fennel, with licorice notes. Fine firm chewy tannins, packs a pop, long finish ending with fruit, oak, mineral and spice. It was great now but this Barolo still has a decade+ to age. Just delightful.