Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend

Forty-plus years on, people still talk about the greatness of the 1982 vintage in Bordeaux. There are multiple factors that contribute to this and it’s fair to say that Robert Parker’s reaction played a major role in the early popularity; certainly in the States. While some may say that 1982 was merely a “good” vintage by today’s standards, I think history has proven it to be empirically special; there was just so much quality from top to bottom. And yet, even with the high praise of the vintage, the tone shifts to hushed whispers when the 1982 Mouton gets mentioned. Up until that point, the Chateau had sort of underachieved after receiving its unprecedented promotion in 1973. But in 1982, a year full of great wine, they created a legend and firmly cemented their First Growth status. Today, I’m pleased to report the plaudits for the ’82 are all warranted.

Opened and double-decanted earlier in the day. The ’82 Mouton pours a deep garnet color with a near opaque core with some sediment; almost youthful when compared to many of the other older wines poured on the night. On the nose, the wine is developing still; loaded with cassis, black berries, leaf tobacco, leather, and fine baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with fabulous structure. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and full of power. A stunning wine and well in its prime…a window I expect will remain open for a longtime to come. Drink now with bacchanalian abandon and through 2082.

Part of a Chateau Mouton Rothschild vertical from 1988-1990. This was my second time enjoying the 1990 vintage and, much like my previous experience, this was rather quiet early and then came on with the business, late. As before, a mix of red and black cassis, ripe and desiccated cherries, tobacco leaf, cedar box, old leather, damp earth, some mushrooms and baking spices. After two similar experiences, I believe this vintage needs a lot of patience and a lot of air to wake up. Without either, it will be misunderstood. Drink now through 2040+

Part of a Chateau Mouton Rothschild vertical from 1988-1990. Early on, this was a probably my favorite of the three Moutons and showed well throughout the course of the evening. Expressive red and dark forest fruits with tobacco, leather, earth and baking spices. The structure was still showing its tensile strength. This has a long life ahead. Drink now through 2040.

Part of a Chateau Mouton Rothschild vertical from 1988-1990. The 1988 shows great color and is quite charming with notes of cassis, tobacco, leather some bell pepper and a cinnamon bark sort of thing on the nose. Structure remains firm and this was a little greener than the ‘89 and ‘90. There is no risk of this falling off anytime soon; probably good through 2038.

Vintage 1989 | unbelievable youghtful, cedar, tobacco, spiced cherries, extremely balanced, a joy | with duck breast and beetroot | at Hofstede De Blaak Tilburg

Very deep and intense. Blueberry and brooding fruit. Still young and punchy. Delicious. Tannins resolved

Showing very well after 2 hours in the decanter but this is still very young and unresolved. Very enjoyable still but a long life ahead.

Unbelievable

Good but not great vintage for Mouton. Graphite, chocolate, dried pasilla.

Still remarkably youthful, it’s rich, dense and dark fruited, layered with classicism of cigar box, cedar and spices. The palate is concentrated and powerful with a silky texture and incredible length. 95 is nowhere near its peak. Many more years to go. And while I’ll never be a real Bordeaux lover, it’s clear what makes these first growths special.