My first time trying one of the wines from Cantina del Pino, an estate with greater ties to Barbaresco’s roots than most. The Vacca family were long a part of the Produttori but in 1997 branched out (yes, a pun: it was they who in the 1920s planted the now iconic pine tree on the highest point of the Ovello lieu-dit), and now produce two single vineyard Barbaresco bottlings (this, and an Albesani), as well as a generic Barbaresco and Langhe, Barbera and Dolcetto wines.
Tragically, winemaker Renato Vacca died in March last year after a yearlong battle with cancer. The 2016 vintage, just bottled, is supposed to be superb.
For now, though, the Ovello from the less lauded 2012 vintage. This is a knockout wine, still young, and with great promise. The nose is very exotic, quite heady & oaky even after a two hour decant, but opened up as the evening progressed, to give gorgeous aromas of macerated cherry, blackberry preserve, cinnamon, cedar and old leather. It screams Nebbiolo, and it’s the first Nebb I’ve had in a year or so.
The palate is very concentrated, with ripe and intense flavours of cranberry, dried cherry, cured meat and tobacco leaf. There is great tension and energy through the mouth, which only this village - or its neighbour - can achieve. The finish is long and impressive. A seductive, ageworthy wine.
94+ — 3 years ago
2015. Red to blue fruits, leather, subtle acid and not-so-subtle oak come together after 3-4 hours of decanting. Young and more oak than I’d like but concentration of high-quality fruit and evident complexity should make this a knockout in 2-4 years. Ferragamo’s merlot/cab/syrah super-Tuscan project. $40 at Vine Republic. — 4 years ago
The 2021 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru was bottled the previous May. It is still obdurate and backward on the nose with touches of yellow fruit and a hint of white peach. The palate is taut and fresh, very saline, but perhaps it doesn't quite deliver the knockout finish I expected from barrel, hence my slightly lower score. Still a serious Chablis, though. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2023)
— a year ago
2003 vintage is an absolute knockout — 3 years ago
Absolutely stunning. Quite the contrast to the Colombiere, as this is much more serious and structured and the Aux Cras terroir shines through. New oak is more prevalent, of course, but it’s so integrated already and doesn’t get in the way. The nose is incredibly intense and aromas of dark fruit, sweet spice and a wet rock minerality waft from the glass. While this wine is let’s say, more masculine and less sexy than the Colombiere, there is still a seductive Vosne-like perfume that’s so undeniably CLB and lures you in. The palate is powerful and is full of energy, while at the same time remaining focused and seamlessly delineated. To no surprise length is superior to the Colombiere. Totally irresistible now, but boy this will be a knockout down the road. — 3 years ago
Brief notes, but no less justice for this absolutely knockout old-school Stellenbosch Syrah, a wine which transported me to the southern Rhône with its Provençal aromas and full-bodied profile.
Smoked bacon, rendered fat and black pepper give this varietal away, though, and only the faintest bricking of colour give a suggestion of this wine’s age. — 2 years ago
Nice dark fruit. Thank you Tom & Pam Pierson — 5 years ago
Pooneet K
Absolutely a knockout. Last had almost 2 years ago and the time has been good. Decanted 1.5 hours, still fairly primary - would be a delicious one to age more, but so it goes. Aromatically incredible. So deep on the palate with that perfect refreshing note on the finish. Excellent pairing with fennel rubbed roast chicken, mushrooms cooked in the chicken fat, and oven fries with a tarragon aioli. — a year ago