Carnery Row Cellar

Weingut Keller

Abts E de Riesling 2017

One of the best evenings of wine I’ve had this year, and it was just focused on this duo. Opened as inspiration for this year’s red pick at Miao Lu (a name to remember for those reading. I’ll say it here first - some of the best Pinot’s and Chard’s in the world will be coming out of this project high up in Yunnan!), and they both gave great context to the task.

When I harvested with Klaus-Peter in 2017, the vineyards bore the scars of hail, every last one of them. The damage was manifest in what we came to call "hail berries" (misshapen berries). To my untrained palate, they tasted perfectly fine. Naturally, I asked KP why we were discarding them, and his response, while not entirely unexpected, was still astonishing (paraphrasing of course): "I don't need to know precisely what they do," he said, "but if there's even a chance they might diminish the wine by 1%, they're gone. And these? They look capable of much worse."

That unyielding spirit of his was, I must admit, my torment at Abtserde, the vineyard hit hardest by the hail. We spent an entire day sorting and picking a single row - granted, the rows were long, but the pace was glacial. The true enemy, though, wasn’t the relentless sorting, but the wasps. Those little demons made an already grueling task even more daunting, dodging their stings as we plucked berries one by one, like selecting pearls from a troubled sea. What we ended up with were, quite literally, tiny gems - "caviar" berries of purity. By day’s end, the sight was something to behold. Despite the torment, the hard work was unquestionably worth it. The 17’ Abtserde is my wine of the vintage.

I’ve had the 17’ Abtserde on numerous occasions but this takes the cake as the best (note to self: best to decant a young Abtserde hard). It is a marvel of purity and depth, with its nose evoking Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, and flint. These aromas reappear on the palate with a nearly overwhelming intensity, blending piquant brightness and mineral-rich concentration. With more air, a floral, bittersweet herbal note very typical of the vineyard appears (smells like the place even). As the evening unfolded, the wine seemed to grow younger, each glass more lively than the last. The final sip was almost painfully austere, like drinking pure limestone, its explosive palate held together by sharp acidity and a palpable, phenolic grip. The finish seemed endless. One of my best Keller experiences this year.
— a month ago

Lyle, Andrew and 12 others liked this
Ira Schwartz

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@Aaron Tan A very enjoyable read.
Tom Casagrande

Tom Casagrande Influencer Badge

Great story and note!

Saracina

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Sandeep liked this

Checkerboard Vineyards

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Daniel CammarataMichael Cammarata
with Daniel and Michael
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Cayuse Vineyards

Edith Grenache Rosé 2018

Shay A
9.2

My last of a 3-pack. The fruit is from the Armada Vineyard in a special two row section that is used solely for rosé.

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Jason, Aaron and 31 others liked this

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Trilogy Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2011

Shay A
9.1

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Right off the bat, this is classical 2011 Napa. It has a distinct green streak down the middle of the palate. Flora Springs was able to get the fruit semi-ripe which balanced out the lean and mean acidity. I have no qualms with 2011 Napa (and have found some to be absolutely incredible). I can appreciate a wine that speaks to the vintage, like this one. At roughly 12yrs, this is integrated. Oak is in the background, with cherry pipe tobacco, cherry cordial and underripe blackberries. Smooth and light bodied on the palate. Not getting any better, I suggest enjoying now.
— 2 years ago

Ted, Sharon and 36 others liked this

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Proprietor's Cuvé Two Row Cuvee Pinot Noir 2015

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