Ornato Barolo Nebbiolo

Round, elegant, and tannic.

Popped and poured. Presented double-blind; no formal notes. There’s a nice mix of red and dark fruits. Some light staining to the glass. The attack was slightly sweet and there’s quite a bit of structure. I was definitely in Italy…but was it Nebbiolo or Sangiovese? I felt the acid sort of took precedence over the tannin. Between that and the slight bit of vanilla and baking spice, this had me leaning Sangiovese-based blend from Toscano; from a modern producer. So I called that: IGT Super Tuscan from 2013. Welp…it was the 2010 “Ornato”. One of those reminders to me: if you don’t drink this style of Barolo, it’s hard to call it blind. Anyway, I thought this was a nice wine but didn’t give me the feels that I want and frankly, with such great land like the Ornato MGA in a classic vintage like 2010, I just want more from this. Perhaps I’m being too critical. Perhaps this needs more time? Drink now with patience or drink through 2035…it could probably go longer.

Cascina Ornato is located in the southern portion of Serralunga d’Alba, right along the ridge. The elevation is higher here and the Ornato MGA falls to the west and south from there. Ornato is nearly a monopole for Pio Cesare would it not be for a couple of parcels that are controlled by Palladino. This bottle of the 1982 was generously provided from the cellar of a good friend; it was opened and enjoyed over two days. On Day 1, half the bottle was poured into a decanter and served immediately. The color was a slightly hazy garnet with an orange rim. On the nose and the palate, the wine came across rather tired. It wasn’t dead…and it definitely wasn’t vinegar, it just was...a bit dull. Since there were other wines open that were showing very well, we let it sit. At the end of the night, we poured what was left back into the bottle and I elected to take it home; hoping that it might wake up overnight. On Day 2, the wine had transformed. The color had deepened and everything had brightened up! The nose is loaded with tar, desiccated red fruits, sweet pipe tobacco accompanied by porchini, forest floor and dried, cracked leather ball glove…like after pitching 6 innings of baseball in the middle of July (IYKYK). On the palate, the wine is dry with surprisingly vigorous structure! The tannins are more pronounced than they were the day before and there’s also great acid to give everything a buoyant lift and some youthful energy. The fruit and non-fruit notes from the nose are confirmed with an added element of red rope licorice. Somehow, this is younger today than it was yesterday. At forty years old, this bottle clearly needed time to stretch its legs. Drink now with several hours of air but remarkably well-cellared examples could last for many more years. An illuminating experience in so many ways!

Something worth noting: Pio Cesare did not begin bottling single-cru Barolo “Oranato” until 1985. Curiously, this bottle was labeled “Vino da Tavola del Piemonte”. I reached out to Pio Cesare in hopes of getting some additional information and they were very kind to share some helpful detail. It turns out this bottling was an idea from their former importer, Terlato, with grapes for this wine sourced by Cascina Ornato. It was a traditional blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera! A long time ago they had a small amount of Barbera planted there. Now, Ornato is more or less 100% Nebbiolo. The “Vino da Tavola del Piemonte” was a sort of predecessor to the “Langhe Rosso” designation since there were not many appellations back in those days. The more you know!

Normal Barolo descriptors but in this case a little detuned. Notes of earth, red savoury fruits and a touch of orange peel. Persistent tannins need to be resolved. In hindsight this is my first of three bottles and may have been drunk a little too young but drinking Windows from the Pros are widely divergent here. Ornato is only produced in outstanding years. James Suckling liked it with a 98 point score. I must be missing something.

Aromas of rose petals and menthol and a touch of tar. A very savoury medium weight palate with tannins fine and persistent - 90% resolved yet retaining classic mature Barolo structure. This wine could go on for a few years with little change I believe. Thoroughly enjoyable with Roast Pork for Sunday lunch. From family owned vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba.

I’m a sucker for Ornato but this was so awkward for an hour, warming from cellar temp and getting some air at 17 years young. After 90 min decant (+airation) powerful nose of blood red🌹and asphalt, not a single hard edge on the big but light and round gem, bloody beautiful, feminine leather and sour 🍒. Finish went on forever with just a twinge of drying tannins suggesting it’s time to drink these. Best news: I have 3 more.

The 2015 Barolo Ornato is dense and muscular, as it so often is. Rich, potent Serralunga tannins wrap around a core of smoke, grilled herbs, licorice, chalk, dried flowers, tobacco and plum notes. In the glass, the 2015 exudes virile intensity and power, but there is less in the way of finesse. Ultimately, the Ornato comes across as a bit monolithic and one-dimensional. I have to think something more is possible here. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2019)

Nose has moist raisins, ripe blueberries, butter grilled portobello mushroom, ripe black cherry, shaved chocolate and moist leather notes.

Palate has dried cherry, cedar (light), dried raspberry, dry loamy soil, rose petals, caramel candy, yet still showing tannins after a 6+ hour decant.

This bottle has years to go, a good future check-in could be 2028, but alas this is our last bottle of the 1998. Absolutely delicious tonight, and in a prime spot should anyone be drinking this in the next few years. Slightly more mellowed tannins would be appreciated by this wine taster, for maximum satisfaction of this varietal/region at 21 years of aging.

Pio Cesare has been producing wine for more than 100 years. Aromas of dark fruit, spice & leather notes. On the palate ripe black fruit flesh with blackberry preserves and spice notes. Nice tannic jolt with fruit and oak finish ending with good structure and oaky character. Very nice. Tasting Sample.

2011 just beginning to open up. Very pretty nose with rose petal, cracked blood pepper, n tanned leather