Lapideus Umbria Bianco Trebbiano

Popped and poured; enjoyed over the course of a few hours. The 2016 Lapideus was made using whole cluster Trebbiano Spoletino from old vines grown in a slightly cooler climate than “Arboreus”. This vintage of Lapideus saw a 24-day maceration and rested on its lees without temperature control for 149 days. This special ambrosia pours a slightly turbid, deep golden color. Funky fresh with a melange of dried apricots, dried mango, some membrillo and some dried orange. Bracing acidity but everything is very much in balance! A very compelling body and lovely finish that is, all in all, quite becoming. This is in a great spot and I would say drink now though there isn’t a huge rush either. Mother Nature didn’t do Giampiero any favors in 2016 and as a result, production was seriously low; only 798 bottles were made. Selfishly, I’m very happy he put in the effort. Bottle No. 517.

The 2019 Lapideus is honeyed with dried peaches and apricots, complemented by spiced blood orange. This is lively and softly textured, soothing the senses with mineral-tinged pit fruits and sweet spices. It finishes with tension, puckering the cheeks as hints of nectarine and liquid stone slowly fade. (Eric Guido, Vinous, October 2023)

So interesting. Light amber in color. Complex from the start. Sherry aromatics. Dry. Delicious.

Gorgeous burnished copper, surprisingly fresh and even racy for a skin contact wine, nose and palate have pear, apricot, citrus, cheese rind. A crowd pleasing, accessible and delicious introduction to this style of winemaking.

Oh...wow. This is my first experience with Lapideus which is actually labeled as Giampiero Bea (Paolo’s son). This is old vine Trebbiano Spoletino (80+ years) that has seen 22 days of skin contact and 95 days on its lees. Popped and poured. The most brilliant burnished gold color; slightly hazy. In fact, there is a sediment “patina” on the inside of the bottle! On the nose, this is remarkably fresh with pears and stone fruits dominating. Not really funky at all! On the palate this is fresh and unbelievably quaffable for such an unusual wine. Again, the stone fruits dominate but almost taking on a dried fruit quality (dried apricots and dried mango). Sort of a Juicy Fruit thing too? So dry though and so, so good. Impeccable balance. Fantastic acid. For being so unusual, this is crazy accessible. A sublime pairing with cedar plank, wild caught salmon. Bottle No. 480/999. Brilliant stuff.

LOL…I suppose this would be similar to the color of urine coming down off herion…though I don’t have a personal reference point for that. It’s certainly a hazy, burnished gold color. On the nose, this is pretty wild. Decomposing citrus and apple, green herbs, dusty earth and horse blanket. On the palate, marmalade and earth…but pretty subdued actually. The finish is long, thanks to the acid and there is certainly some tannin but it’s more cerebral that hedonistic. Not nearly as generous as the 2015 version which was stunning. Spontaneously fermented, this bottle saw skin contact for 35 days and rested on its lees for 210 days. Bottle No. 1638/1800.

Beautiful copper/amber color. Salty stone fruit, bruised apples, toffee, honey. Great acid. Almost drinks like a low abv whiskey. Great with roast chicken, would be amazing with blue cheese.

The Bea brothers turn Trebbiano into its own category of something else - an orange thing thats at times like sherry, at other times, whiskey. So insanely pretty to stare at, so aromatically intense, pour this into a big bowl at room temp and it's impossible not to want to coddle to the end of days.

Glows like light caramel or a shot of Fireball. Smells like caramel apple cider, dried apricot, roasted chestnuts and palo santo smoke. A salty sour brown bag of toffee, bruised apples, and sweet peach.

2017. We passed on dessert to have another wine with a cheese plate. Maybe not as complex as other Bea skin contact wines I’ve had, but that may have been a good thing at this point in our meal. We all enjoyed it!

5/21 - big funky complex orange wine. Needs air. 84