La Pousse d'Or
"Clos des 60 Ouvrées" Les Caillerets Monopole Volnay 1er Cru Pinot Noir
Volnay, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France
One of the best evenings of wine I’ve had this year, and it was just focused on this duo. Opened as inspirations for this year’s red pick at Miao Lu (a name to remember for those reading. I’ll say it here first - some of the best Pinot’s and Chard’s in the world will be coming out of this project high up in Yunnan!), they both gave great context to the task.
Gerard Potel is a true master of his craft. So much so that he rarely made bad wines in spite of vintage conditions (maybe except 83’ which many claim can be hit or miss). 1988 is by no means bad, not touted as the best but good by most accounts. My experience with the vintage, limited of course, has been a little mixed, but my feeling when drinking this wine was that it transcended the vintage. Heck, I thought it flirted with the very best I’ve tasted - an epitome of aged Burgundy beauty and a perfect example of why “all roads lead of Burgundy”.
Like all of Potel’s wines from this era, the 88’ 60 Ouvrees carries a weightless intensity, with a silky texture that glides while maintaining a sense of immense depth. Crystalline and perfumed, it offers layers of damask rose, incense, strawberries, orange zest, white peach, nutmeg, white pepper, and hints of turned earth. With air, it grows sweeter, brighter, and even more primary - its youth is renewed like an eagle’s. Absolutely insane! To me, the wine straddles this perfect balance between youthful energy and serene maturity. Incredible, and easily the best red I’ve tasted this year.
One of the best evenings of wine I’ve had this year, and it was just focused on this duo. Opened as inspirations for this year’s red pick at Miao Lu (a name to remember for those reading. I’ll say it here first - some of the best Pinot’s and Chard’s in the world will be coming out of this project high up in Yunnan!), they both gave great context to the task.
Gerard Potel is a true master of his craft. So much so that he rarely made bad wines in spite of vintage conditions (maybe except 83’ which many claim can be hit or miss). 1988 is by no means bad, not touted as the best but good by most accounts. My experience with the vintage, limited of course, has been a little mixed, but my feeling when drinking this wine was that it transcended the vintage. Heck, I thought it flirted with the very best I’ve tasted - an epitome of aged Burgundy beauty and a perfect example of why “all roads lead of Burgundy”.
Like all of Potel’s wines from this era, the 88’ 60 Ouvrees carries a weightless intensity, with a silky texture that glides while maintaining a sense of immense depth. Crystalline and perfumed, it offers layers of damask rose, incense, strawberries, orange zest, white peach, nutmeg, white pepper, and hints of turned earth. With air, it grows sweeter, brighter, and even more primary - its youth is renewed like an eagle’s. Absolutely insane! To me, the wine straddles this perfect balance between youthful energy and serene maturity. Incredible, and easily the best red I’ve tasted this year.
Nose has dried dark red fruits (plum, cherry, blackberry), dried citrus peel, very wet leather, wet peppercorn and dry earth.
Palate has fresh/balanced acidity, sweet cherry compote, under-ripe raspberry, pomegranate seed, dry potting soil and tart blackberry.
Drink 2022-2030, wow!
Initially slow Ox 4H (Audouze method), then decant into 2000ml Erlenmeyer flask for 1H after noting the acidity.
Paired with Taiwanese Five Spice Pork (Lu Rou Fan | 卤肉饭) over Jasmin rice with lightly fried eggs from our private egg factory in the backyard. Locally raised NY pork (Kinderhook Farm, Valatie, NY).
9.3+
Nose has dried dark red fruits (plum, cherry, blackberry), dried citrus peel, very wet leather, wet peppercorn and dry earth.
Palate has fresh/balanced acidity, sweet cherry compote, under-ripe raspberry, pomegranate seed, dry potting soil and tart blackberry.
Drink 2022-2030, wow!
Initially slow Ox 4H (Audouze method), then decant into 2000ml Erlenmeyer flask for 1H after noting the acidity.
Paired with Taiwanese Five Spice Pork (Lu Rou Fan | 卤肉饭) over Jasmin rice with lightly fried eggs from our private egg factory in the backyard. Locally raised NY pork (Kinderhook Farm, Valatie, NY).
9.3+
A killer Gerard Potel side by side. This 93 was darker and a bit more brooding than the 95, but eventually comes around and nips at the heels of the Bousse d’Or. Lovely, but quite young still.
A killer Gerard Potel side by side. This 93 was darker and a bit more brooding than the 95, but eventually comes around and nips at the heels of the Bousse d’Or. Lovely, but quite young still.
Jan 21st, 2022An absolute gem from the EMP list. It’s in such a great place showing exceptional complexity, elegance and delineation. It opens up in the glass and continues to get better and better flaunting its lovely pure cherry fruit, sous bois, potpourri, tea leaves and a line of fine acidity adding freshness, before its seamless transition to a finish with tremendous persistence. Old Pousse d’Or is the truth.
An absolute gem from the EMP list. It’s in such a great place showing exceptional complexity, elegance and delineation. It opens up in the glass and continues to get better and better flaunting its lovely pure cherry fruit, sous bois, potpourri, tea leaves and a line of fine acidity adding freshness, before its seamless transition to a finish with tremendous persistence. Old Pousse d’Or is the truth.
Sep 5th, 2021
Took a while to open up but developed over a couple of hours
Took a while to open up but developed over a couple of hours
Jun 21st, 2017
No notes at the time. All the wines at dinner brought by the GC participants were good.
No notes at the time. All the wines at dinner brought by the GC participants were good.
Jan 14th, 2017Had the 1988 last night, and it was silky with tea, spice and high acid.
Had the 1988 last night, and it was silky with tea, spice and high acid.
Oct 27th, 2016This is finally old enough to have unwound and now it shows its true volume and depth. Drinkable now for scads of beautifully ripe fruit, but nowhere near maturity.
This is finally old enough to have unwound and now it shows its true volume and depth. Drinkable now for scads of beautifully ripe fruit, but nowhere near maturity.
Apr 24th, 2016