Kirchspiel Riesling

Those who know me well know just how much I adore the wines, the family, and the place. There’s a certain magic at Keller, one that many fellow Riesling-lovers can attest to. But this bottle, this 17’ Kirchspiel, holds a little more weight than most for me. Not just because it’s an extraordinary vintage, though it most certainly is. But because I was there working harvest that year

Sorting the Kirchspiel fruit was relentless work. Many passes. No shortcuts. We removed anything botrytised and hail-afflicted, every last questionable berry. Pressing was just as meticulous: whole bunch, long and slow cycles, gentle pressures (never exceeding 1.8 bar) to keep the botrytis influence to an absolute minimum. It was all about purity. And purity is exactly what defines the 17’ Kirchspiel.

I’ve had this wine a number of times, but this bottle, slow-oxed since lunch, was something else. A near-perfect showing. Lemon, grapefruit, flint, and white floral, all wrapped up in a saline, chalk-laden precision that feels like liquid geology. Every element in place, nothing extraneous. A dense, electric core of energy, though slightly quieter than its rowdier siblings. The structure is packed, tightly coiled, and unmistakably Kirchspiel.

Effortless energy, but born from backbreaking work. Very worth it.

Very tight, gout de petrol, chalk and salt. Way too young. Very acid.

Wine of this Melbourne trip. The 07’ Kirchspiel GG was incredible. One of the best renditions of this vineyard I’ve had. So deep, with a whole spectrum of fruits ranging from pineapples to lemons impossibly cramped into it, and a minerality that just explodes in the palate. Richly textured, yet just dances across the tongue with a sparkly acidity. A wine of superlatives basically, but most importantly, a wine that evaporated off the dinner table.

I believe that ‘glides’ is the right word.

Definitely a little more open than the first bottle this year. A gift lugged back from Germany about four months back, and opened some four hours before dinner to breathe. A touch of petrol on the nose when it was first poured out on the table, but that quickly blew away with subsequent pours and by the last pour, the wine was simply bonkers! Like the ocean - so broad, deep, and immensely saline. While second to minerality, the fruit concentration was no laughing matter too. For me, WOTN on it’s own but it was perhaps a little too overpowering for the fried pipefish which elevated the 19’ Dauvissat La Forest to another plane on this evening.

Decanted, but it never really opened up across our 4-hour dinner. Not as viciously austere as the 16’ Abtserde we had a few days back, but in similar fashion, it does put minerality first. Firm reduction on the nose, which eventually gave way to some herbal and chalky notes, as well as hints of citrus fruit. On the palate, it was more approachable - weighty with huge extract, riper stone fruits, juicy acidity, and intense chalkiness. Really enjoyed this, but it’s certainly in need of some serious cellaring time.

Was trying to age this… but was impatient

Perfectly mature Riesling showing how great this grape can be if you give it enough time and get it from a great producer. Asian spices, white flowers and fruit, hint of gout de petrol, off dry with a mineral on-set and a bit of sweetness on the mid-pallet. Stunning.

Tasted blind— called exact bottle! Keller Kirchspiel 2017 🤩

From the superb Weingut Keller, terrific balance and racy energy. Ripe stone fruits, lemongrass, crushed rocks and minerals. Already drinking very nicely and improves with a decant. Was a great way to reenergize the palate after a long day of drinking.