2015 Pattes Loup (Thomas Pico) Butteaux Chablis 1er Cru Chardonnay

Independent Sommelier/Wine Educator

9.3

So, when fine wine drinkers think Chablis, it’s Raveneau & Dauvissat they desire the most. I would say that you could add Pattes Loup to that list and it is less expensive than the fore mentioned. Really appreciate the 11.4% ABV.

The nose is beautiful revealing; golden & green apple, ripe pineapple, lemon with peel, lime zest, tropical melon with green dominant, peach, apricots, grapefruit, orange citrus blend, some brown butter, excellent cream notes, caramel, honeysuckle, waxy notes, vanillin bean, butterscotch candy, slivered almonds, amazing chalkiness, volcanics, sea fossils, touch of saline, understated white spice, light herbaceousiness with yellow flowers/lilies. A dash of spring flowers framed in orange blooms and jasmine.

The body is full, round, waxy & gorgeous. Excellent viscosity for those that enjoy that. It is simply a beautiful elegant wine. Golden & Granny Smith green apples, ripe pineapple, lemon with peel, lime zest, tropical melon with green dominant, more peach on the palate than nose, apricots, grapefruit, orange citrus blend, some brown butter, excellent cream notes, melted, salted caramel, warm toast, honeysuckle, waxy notes, vanillin bean, butterscotch candy, slivered almonds, amazing chalkiness, crushed & powdery volcanics, sea fossils, touch of saline, soft woodiness, understated white spice with delicate palate heat, fresh Provence herbs with yellow flowers/lilies. A dash of spring flowers framed in orange blooms and jasmine. The round acidity is voluptuous & near perfect. The long finish is simply, rich, lush, well balanced and persists delicately for minutes. A wine well worth seeking out if you have not tried Pattes Loup. This bottling will pick up another point or two with 3-5 more years in bottle.

Photo of, Domaine Pattes Loup, Owner-Winemaker Thomas Pico and their beautiful Chardonnay grapes on their way to be pressed.

Producer notes & introduction. Third generation vigneron, Thomas Pico, took over his grandfather’s work in 2004. Pico’s grandfather planted and worked his terroir in the hillsides near Courgis and Preys, the two highest altitude villages within Chablis, with vineyards up to 300 meters. It was in the 1970’s when Pico’s father took over the Domaine.

In 2004, Pico returned back to his home town of Courgis after completing his studies of viticulture and oenology in Beaune. Pico began farming 8 hectares of vines immediately converting the vineyards to organic. In 2006, Pico released his first wines under the Pattes Loup label founded on the principles of organic farming, low yield harvesting, and minimal intervention. In 2009, the domaine was certified Agriculture Biologique by ECOCERT. Pico gained a reputation locally and internationally as one of Chablis most exciting growers/winemakers releasing wines with only one issue, there wasn’t enough.

In August of 2011, Antonio Galloni professed, “Pattes Loup is arguably the single most exciting young Domaine’s in Chablis today… Stylistically, Pico’s wines remind me of the laser-like focus of Cedric Bouchard‘s Champagnes combined with the richness and inner sweetness found in the wines of the late Didier Dagueneau. Simply put, these are some of the most ground-breaking, intensely captivating wines being made in Chablis today.”

All work at the domaine is done by hand. Only indigenous yeasts are used in the cellar and élevage occurs on the lees at cold temperatures for 14 to over 30 months. Malolactic fermentation begins and finishes naturally. Pico works with a combination of concrete egg shaped fermenters along with stainless steel tanks and used French oak of different sizes depending on the cuvée. The wines are never fined or filtered before bottling. Pico is evolving and is always fine tuning his work in the cellar. Over the years, he has decreased the amount of his sulphur use, extended élevage, and is now using expensive Portuguese wood corks for bottling believing, “the cork is my finishing touch.”