The Rebirth-ish of Sauvignon Blanc

As I read about the Sauvignon Blanc renaissance I contemplated—did it ever die? And did 90’s fashion ever go away or did I just never stop wearing combat boots and plaid because I didn’t notice when everyone else did? Recently, at a coffee shop around 3pm, I suddenly flinched, realizing that it was not a raver kid after school caffeinating, but a 2023 teen wearing the exact same thing I did circa “The Craft”. Chokers and Docs stayed the course but have recently surged in popularity. Is Sauvignon Blanc the 90’s fashion of wine? It is (and has been) an overtly popular variety. Along with Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc is a regular blanc on menus everywhere. Since I got into wine (granted not SO long ago compared to many), I’ve observed it to be a mainstay. Seeing one on a menu came as a symbol of the security that I’d at least get a wine that hopefully didn’t suck. Like, I’ve had some BAD by-the-glass Chards. But at most, a mediocre Sauvignon was a little bland or its pipi de chat a little très pronounced. And yet, it recently had another growth spurt! SB may have thought it was a grownup grape, but it may just be in its adolescence as it gets ready to shed the body fat of being associated with the aforementioned pungent cat pee notes of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, or being overshadowed by the appellation name of Sancerre—a Sauvignon Blanc to be sure, but in a different form with a trendy name. It was the only non-sparkling varietal to show growth, so says the Silicon Valley Bank's 2023 State of the US Wine Industry Report. And the 2023 State of the Wine Industry report says it had growth in both sales and plantings, whereas pretty much every other grape lost ground. And just today at a trade tasting, a Rombauer rep told me their Sauvignon Blanc sales were taking over their famous/infamous Chardonnay, an unexpected stat to be sure. But why? Had we all just somehow forgotten about it? Is it an offshoot of people still being club ABC (Anything But Chardonnay)? I’ve read varying accounts all over. Is it the ABC of it all? Is it that the Sauvignon Blancs available are ever improving? It is a grape that needs finessing to produce balanced grapes in the vineyards, so is accelerating quality to blame? Aside from the whys, the effects of increasing demand will surely show up. Some say to expect the luxurification of it. We should expect Sauvignon Blancs from specific vineyards with higher prices. Kind of like Sancerre was the Sauvignon Blanc royalty, and now the wealth is bleeding into the rest of the world? Either which way, I wanted to round up some bottles and see what my taste buds had to say about the current climate. Seeing as Sauvignon Blanc has been taken more seriously for a hot minute hiding under appellation names like Bordeaux, Sancerre, and Pouilly-Fumé, for my recommendations this time around, I limited myself to the New World. I tasted a LOT of wines for this and found a goodly amount of fantastic pours, so maybe the quality IS to blame for sales? Maybe the sales for quality? Either way, Sauvignon Blanc is perfect for summer so get a glass and dive in. My tastings around the (new) world: NAPA 2022 Gamble Family Vineyards Gamble Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Four clones unite! Sauvignon Musque Clone and Clone 530 from the Loire, plus the Preston Clone and Clone 316 from Bordeaux. Give your glass lots of time to evolve and grow with air. It started out super tart yet tropical, sweet citrus followed, then came a brief melon moment. With time the nose settled into citrus: sweet grapefruit, kumquat, and a touch of grass. On the palate, a saline element joins the party (it’s always a party when the salt shows up). Between that and the acid you’d expect to be puckering, but there’s a midweight silky texture and almost a sweetness of the ripe fruits that keeps it all in check. And a tweak of spice, almost white pepper, on the finish. This wine is a party animal. Its parties involve high heels and canapés, but they are still parties. 2022 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc From St. Helena. How I love Ehlers! I had the pleasure of having dinner with their winemaker Laura Díaz Muñoz, and she’s a gem. She’s a gem, and her wines are a peach, although white flowers and orange marmalade were the primary notes of the nose, passion fruit more prominent note on the palate. It’s luxurious, this one is, bursting with ripe fruit and the grass? It’s the plump and green stuff of a healthy spring. Very silky, but there’s a healthy dose of acidity playing patty cake with all the fruit. Par excellence. 2022 Cliff Lede Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc A little reserved at first, it takes a minute for all it has to say to be spoken. Tropical but super fresh like refreshing lemon-lime vibes come mixed with spiced apple nose. On the palate, it's juicy mc-spuicy. But lean and elegant and slightly salty. It’s literally mouth-watering. A more fleshy example. Subtly earthy under the tropicals, but like barely ripe tropicals—fresh! All underscored by that neutral barrel texture. A delight. 2022 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc So this is actually 76% Napa, 24% Sonoma, and 100% quaffable. Fun fact: Rombauer makes Sauvignon Blanc under screwcap! Super fresh nose—all ripe citrus orgy at the wet riverbed—leading into a lil’ more gooseberry action on the palate. And there’s a tiny hint of green apple Jolly Rancher I’m not mad at. It’s very lightweight but has some texture to it. I’d like to imagine it comes from 10% going into neutral barrel. I don’t know what the 3% in concrete did, but I like it. The remaining 87% was in tank if you couldn’t guess. Rombauer SB, who’d have thunk? SONOMA 2021 Chalk Hill Estate Sauvignon Blanc Ample grapefruit and tangerine on the nose. On the palate, the tangerine gives way to subtle gooseberry and crisp linens—both in taste and texture—but fine, soft linen, the kind you’d want a nightgown of. Zippy acidity is rather broad across the palate with a sweetly fruited (without being sweet) finish. J’adore. CENTRAL COAST 2021 The Paring Sauvignon Blanc So much sunshine-y ripe citrus on the nose and the palate: grapefruit and lime candy plus a peek-a-boo of Meyer lemon and vanilla bean I’m pretty sure came from the 1/3 new French oak…all on a dewy autumn lawn…not as pungent as fresh spring grass but almost hitting that sweet hay note. Zingy acid, but a well-padded body and a hint of tannic grip. It almost makes me think of what Sancerre is up to these days. Marvelously refreshing, marvelously soothing. CHILE 2021 Hacienda Arauncano Humo Blanco Edición Limitada Organic Sauvignon Blanc Zippy with a pleasantly waxy-textured underbelly. Once the screwcap reduction blows off (it happens quickly), there’s fresh citrus and spring peas plus fresh asparagus on the nose. The body brings more of that plus a fun floral side and an almost orange candy finish. Medium weight with a little grip and a silky texture. And almost a hint of cola on the close? If this were a piece of clothing, it would be a burnished orange velvet vintage gown. I had one once. It was the lightest gossamer velvet you could imagine but had and presence. From the ever-prolific Bordelaise Lurton family, go fig. SOUTH AFRICA 2020 Rustenberg Stellanbosch Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch is known for its Bordeaux-variety reds, so it checks out that Sauvignon Blanc is in bloom here. It’s super fruity, and at first blush, I contemplated if there was even a hint of residual sugar here? There is weightiness and heft to the palate balanced by super fresh grass and sippity do dah citrus/acidic pineapple flare. A contemplative white I’d drink straight or pair with something unctuous that needs that body+acid punch. NEW ZEALAND 2022 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc Overt Tropicana, it comes balanced with fun-fun citrus. It says NZ SB (in the code of canned peas and gooseberry) but it has manners, like don’t announce HI I AM FROM NEW ZEALAND right at first. Light-bodied with goodly acid; there’s a latent pleasant sweet pea note to it too. 2022 Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc What a smart wine. Seriously it reeks of sophistication and tropical fruit. No pipi, barely even a gooseberry in sight. Marvelous acid, rich texture and just a soupçon (I had to use that word. It’s not me, it’s the smart wine) of pleasant sweet lawn on a spring day. Also, certain rocky minerally notes that hint at ash. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Want to read more from Ellen? 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