2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases

As always, our fall Barolo article focuses on wines that were bottled this past summer and other late releases. Two thousand and seventeen is a tricky vintage with a degree of variability that requires selection. Many wines are gorgeous, but others are disappointing. The 2017 Growing Season and Wines: A Brief Recap As I wrote in my article 2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… earlier this year, the growing season saw its fair share of challenges. Frost was an issue in the spring, especially in lower elevations, where some of the expansion of Barolo production has taken place. “There’s a reason why old-timers never planted the lower hillsides,” a well-known producer told me not too long ago. Summer was marked by incessantly warm and very dry weather, hardly ideal for Nebbiolo. Critically, though, the end of the growing season brought with it the diurnal shifts that are so vital for Nebbiolo, and that turned out to be the saving grace for the vintage. As for the wines, they are inconsistent from producer to producer, from vineyard to vineyard and even within specific wineries’ portfolios. It is a vintage to be especially selective. Top sites, especially those with older vineyards did best. Stylistically, the 2017s don’t really feel like wines from a warm year. I imagine much of that has to do with the final phase of ripening, which took place under generally favorable conditions. For more on the growing season and wines, readers will want to take a look at my earlier article, which covers both in great detail. --Antonio Galloni, 2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases, October 2021 Below is a selection of notes from the report. To read Antonio’s full report and the producer commentaries, check out the full article on Vinous now . Read Part 1, 2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… on Vinous as well.

Trediberri

Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
9.3

The 2017 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata is powerful, dense and tightly wound. This is an especially dark, somber wine from a site where Barolos tend to be much more floral and red-toned in their fruit expression. At the same time, the Rocche is less impacted by oak than some of the earlier vintages, which leads me to think all the 2017 needs is time in bottle to unwind. There is a lot here. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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Diego Conterno

Barolo Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
9.2

The 2017 Barolo is a very pretty, gracious Barolo that will drink well upon release. Aromatic and lifted, but with plenty of structure beneath, the 2017 is a great introduction to the estate's wines. Dried herbs, sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, mint and pine lend quite a bit of aromatic nuance to this expressive, mid-weight Barolo from Conterno. Terrific. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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Trediberri

Barolo Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
9.1

The 2017 Barolo is a pretty dense wine from proprietor Nicola Oberto. I am used to seeing a bit more finesse and transparency here, but the 2017 is quite a powerhouse. Large-grained tannins add to that impression. Time in the glass brings out hints of spice and tobacco, and yet the 2017 remains a bit rough around the edges. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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Luigi Vico

Prapò Barolo Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
9.3

The 2017 Barolo Prapò shows the breadth and volume that are typical of this site, and, yet, retains a very appealing sense of transparency. Super-ripe, dark cherry, spice, leather, earthiness, tobacco and incense bring out darker shades of Nebbiolo. Overall, this is a relatively accessible Barolo from a site where the wines can be much more dense and muscular. The 2017 is terrific. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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Renato Ratti

Marcenasco Barolo Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
9.2

The 2017 Barolo Marcenasco is a very pretty, elegant wine. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, mint, cinnamon and orange peel give this effusive, inviting Barolo tons of aromatic presence. This gracious, refined Barolo will drink well right out of the gate. Tasting it reminds me of the days I often drank this bottling when it was what my bank account allowed. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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Diego Conterno

del Comune di Monforte d'Alba (Barolo) Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
9.4

The 2017 Barolo del Commune di Monforte d’Alba is a gorgeous, beguiling wine. Readers will find a Barolo that expresses all of the balsamic, spiced character typical of Ginestra Barolos but without the heft that can make some wines forbidding. Transparent, gracious and super-expressive, Conterno's 2017 is all class. Don't miss it. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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Azienda Agricola Brovia

Barolo Nebbiolo 2017

Delectable Wine
8.9

The 2017 Barolo is a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. In 2017, Brovia's straight Barolo is quite floral and lifted in feel. Crushed flowers, mint, spice, blood orange and sweet berry fruit are laced throughout. As a reminder, the Brovia Barolo is a blend of all four sites the family bottles as vineyard designates, with an emphasis on the Brea cru. This mid-weight Barolo is all charm. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2021)
— a month ago

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