Shay A

9.5

Jarvis is a winery I will always have fond memories of due to visiting it many times so early in my wine journey. While I enjoyed the reds (especially the cab franc and merlot), their Finch Hollow Chardonnay (both the filtered and unfiltered) were standouts. My last bottle!

A youthful bright yellow in the glass. Rich and integrated aromatics of salted popcorn, lemon cream and honey roasted cashews. Tidal wave of flavor on the palate that borders on hedonistic but pulls back just before. Oak is in-play with some baking spices and honey helping round the profile. Acidity has faded a bit but these have always had good phenolic grip, an almond skin-like finish. This reminds me of a blend of Aubert’s SugarShack (Napa warmth) with Kongsgaard (texture and grip). Not getting any better, this is a window that I have to imagine the winery was working towards. Delicious. — 25 days ago

Shay A

9.3

One of the bottles I brought for a guys night of rosé sparklers and Brunello.

I’ve been on the Ultramarine list for close to 10yrs. I’ve opened bottles young, old and everywhere in-between (both based on vintage and in relation to disgorgement), and after such a disappointing experience with the 2020s (after reading all the CT notes, I opened a ‘20 of each cuveé and found a profile that is not reminiscent of the early Ultramarine days at all), I wanted to open something that reminded me of the good ‘ol days with Ultramarine.

Amongst Egly’s rosé, Krug’s rosé, Westborn’s rosé and tons of grower champagnes, this wasn’t a standout but it was enjoyable and paired beautifully with the food. This bottle was closer in experience to the 2014 (good richness, fruit, but also big structure) vs the 2016 (lighter/brighter, more mineral). Salmon color in the glass with a dash of pink. Not overly reductive or oxidative with waves of red berry fruit and strawberry marscapone. Lovely richness on the palate with some strawberry shortbread cookies amongst more red berry fruit but a nice mineral streak down the middle. Layered. Mousse isn’t quite creamy but it’s soft. Nod to grower champagne with Cali warmth.

This is in a nice integrated spot where the fruit is taking a step back and dancing with the mineral notes. No rush to open, but worth popping soon. — a month ago

Shay A

9.2

I picked up a couple ‘88s recently as I’m always looking for birth year wines and opted to open this one first. Rough label, but provenance was great.

Consumed from bottle over the course of two hours. After 10-20mins of blowing off so 30+yr funk, this became a total surprise! Faded ruby with bricking but that’s the only sign that this had age. Aromatics sported sweet cherry tobacco, older floral/potpurri, and a mix of red and black berry fruits. Juicy and vibrant on the palate! Shocked. Core of red and black fruits carry the profile with fig, herbs and a little bit of leather. Good spine of acidity here. Not much tannin at the finish, but it’s classically old Napa merlot. Drink up and enjoy! — a month ago

Shay A

9.2

Opened during the WB virtual taste with Thomas Champs of the Vilmart family.

Disgorged April 2022; 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot noir; 7g/dosage; no malo; 10months in oak

While I’ve had Vilmart before, I’ve not focused on the wine and its history before the way I did with this virtual taste. Normally 7g/l dosage starts to cause me to pause, but this is another example of how dosage plays so many different instruments aside from sweetness. Beautiful texture and precision. Slight reduction upon opening. Brioche, lemon cream, honeycrisp apple (not tart; ripe), sea salt, faint honey. The mineral/chalk profile is upfront and the mousse is really nice and soft/creamy. A wonderful balance in acid, fruit, texture.

Followed over two days, and I may have enjoyed day two a small bit more! Always an incredible value. — a month ago

Shay A

This was fun. 40yr old Napa Pinot. 12.5%ABV!

Cork was in decent shape. Pours faded ruby with bricking around the rim. First smell was a ringer for old burg! There was some mushroom and red berry funk with an herbal profile while being both odd and enjoyable. After 20mins, the funk faded and showed more old potpurri, chewing tobacco, raspberry fig bar, and a red fruit tang character at the finish (tart, perception of sappiness but not sweet). Little balsamic too. Acidity was mostly gone but the wine had a decent frame to it.

This was more for the cerebral side than it was the enjoyable side. I enjoyed this right after pop when the funk made it intriguing. After an hour, the wine fell off and became dull. Fun experiment. — a month ago

Shay A

9.2

My first time with Doyard’s Vendemiaire after previously having enjoyed their other cuvées.

100% Chardonnay; 2017 base vintage; 48 months on lees; 4g/l dosage

I normally trend toward BdN champagnes as some BdB can be overly lean/sharp when young, but the time on lees here (and use of some barrel) gives this a beautiful frame while accentuating the bright Chardonnay fruit. Honeysuckle, sea salt and lemon on the nose with faint roasted cashews. Beautifully energetic on the palate with some powdered lemon bar, white peach, salted popcorn kernel with a little bit of vanilla and toast coming through kudos to the gentle barrel use. Delicious BdB at a nice price.

Not a surprise, but I recommend enjoying this cool but not ice cold…it was less aggressive and more expressive after warming up a bit from the ice bucket. — a month ago

Shay A

9.4

One of the wines I supplied for an annual lunch hosting (co-host this time). The best score for this is “not ready”, but 94 represents where I felt this was in its evolution…long way to go.

On a table with a burgundy, Bordeaux and Napa cab, THIS won most expressive aromatics. Could smell this before I even sat down! Deep translucent ruby/purple in the glass. The whole cluster/stems dominate initially before giving way to dark potpourri, violets, red and black berries, and herbs. It’s got spiced-fruit and grip on the palate (kudos to the stems), with some blood orange and a little licorice showing up at the finish. Great acidity to help this cruise a while. I don’t have a lot of experience with Platt (I know AG gave this 100pts) so I’m not sure if this is Platt style vs RM style, but it’s the most expressive RM Pinot I’ve had in a while (if not ever).

Decanted two hours. I’d recommend at least that if opening now or holding 5-7yrs for the real fireworks. My only 2018, but have a few newer ones that I’ll forget about for a while. — a month ago

Shay A

9.4

My contribution for a guys night of rosé sparklers and Brunello. Alongside a few bottles of Biondi Santi, Il Poggione, Mastro Janni, and others.

Zero experience with this producer, and while I struggle to find my preferred “style” in Italy (Italian merlot?, old Barolo?, Brunello of all ages?), this brunello was lights out good and right up my alley. I slow-oxed this for almost an hour. Layers! Deep red. So floral and sweet-spice forward aromatically with faint oak. Dense and powerful core of roasted black cherry, tar, sweet tobacco, light balsamic and herbal pop with a juicy and massive finish…big structure (but the acidity keeps this hard to resist another sip). Obviously in a slightly bigger style thanks to the vintage, this is incredibly well put together and complex. I think I have one more, thankfully.

Day two showed an even more integrated wine that was firing on all cylinders. Decant 2-3hrs or hold a few more years for this window. 94-95+

Served with lobster ravioli, prime beef tenderloin carpaccio, lamb rack…about as good as it gets with rosé sparkling wines and Brunello! — a month ago

Shay A

9.3

A few bottles I opened with my buddy Joe Lucca when work brings him to town!

After having the 2021 rosé version last month, I’ve been itching to try the red. Sardinian Cannonau, which is their version of Grenache.

Followed over two days.

Deep ruby with a hint of purple. Initial aromatics show a little smoke, peppered black raspberries, black cherries and sweet florals. The warmth of the wine is noticeable on the palate…cherry jerky, kirsch, rhubarb, spice. Hibiscus tea. The fruit is bright and almost crunchy (not overly ripe). Good acidity. Structure is quite impressive…plenty of tannin on day two. There’s a faint herbal, almost medicinal, note that I find often in Italian reds like barbera and some merlot. The ABV pokes out a bit (15.5), but I suppose that matches their climate.

If poured blind, Grenache (or Grenache blend) would be the call…juicy, bright, peppery, elevated warmth. It comes across as a singular expression, not a big blend. However, there’s no way I’m taking this to Italy…or rather, Sardinia! Decant for an hour, or hold a few more years. — a month ago

Shay A

9.5

One of the wines I supplied for an annual lunch hosting (co-host this time). I was really hesitant to open this given the fanfare of this specific wine, but also how DrCrane can be an in-between wine for me (so explosive young, shut down at 5-10yrs, re-open 10+). Decanted two-three hours.

Classic deep purple-black DrCrane in the glass. Aromatics are immediate with ripe blue and black fruits, baking spices, mocha and graphite. Just a little bit of high-toned EA to make it pop, along with this roasted character I always get from DrCrane wines. Opulent and polished in every way on the palate, this is a tidal wave of flavor with no hard edges. It’s a towering wine in the sense of so much concentration and depth on the mid-palate, but it’s so incredibly polished at the finish…almost shockingly so. The ripe fruits and the dark chocolate linger longer than any Napa cab I can remember. Iron first in a velvet glove.

No need to worry, these are open for business. Plenty of structure to carry a while, but this window seems like it was made for how this wine is drinking now. — a month ago