Weingut Keller
von der Fels Rheinhessen Riesling
2010 | Riesling (Kabinett)
Weingut Keller; von der Fels
Rhine Valley; Rheinhessen, Germany
APN 4 275 043 33 11
(91-93; Drink 2020-35)
2010 | Riesling (Kabinett)
Weingut Keller; von der Fels
Rhine Valley; Rheinhessen, Germany
APN 4 275 043 33 11
(91-93; Drink 2020-35)
There are some times when the only thing that will suffice is one of the world’s greatest Rieslings. Klaus-Peter Keller @kellerdalsheim is, in my mind, the undisputed master of the Rheinhessen region of Germany. The Keller family has been making wine for 10 generations, and the oldest parcel of Riesling they have has been handed down within the family since 1789. Keller, who apprenticed in Burgundy before studying enology at Geisenheim told me that he looks for “playful elegance” in wine. He wants it to dance on the palate. And I’ve never had a bottle of his wine that hasn’t made ME want to dance. This one marries lemon pith and lemon oil with Asian pear and mandarine orange peel. But all of these flavors are perceived through a quartz-like minerality that evokes the feeling of licking an icicle or exploring a glacial cave. Stunning clarity and incredible acidity makes for a profound glass of mostly-dry Riesling.
There are some times when the only thing that will suffice is one of the world’s greatest Rieslings. Klaus-Peter Keller @kellerdalsheim is, in my mind, the undisputed master of the Rheinhessen region of Germany. The Keller family has been making wine for 10 generations, and the oldest parcel of Riesling they have has been handed down within the family since 1789. Keller, who apprenticed in Burgundy before studying enology at Geisenheim told me that he looks for “playful elegance” in wine. He wants it to dance on the palate. And I’ve never had a bottle of his wine that hasn’t made ME want to dance. This one marries lemon pith and lemon oil with Asian pear and mandarine orange peel. But all of these flavors are perceived through a quartz-like minerality that evokes the feeling of licking an icicle or exploring a glacial cave. Stunning clarity and incredible acidity makes for a profound glass of mostly-dry Riesling.
Sep 5th, 2021For me this bottle was probably compromised by transport. I've had this with KP last year and I assure you that this bottle was just not right. Yes, you still get all the lovely stone fruit and cassis notes in the bouquet, but also a touch of petrol which suggests to me that there was a little more oxygen ingress than intended. While it's linear from the start to mid-palate, it starts to mellow away rapidly in the back end which mutes the anticipated penetrating finish. Still nice, but not at all the juicy, mineral von der Fels I love.
For me this bottle was probably compromised by transport. I've had this with KP last year and I assure you that this bottle was just not right. Yes, you still get all the lovely stone fruit and cassis notes in the bouquet, but also a touch of petrol which suggests to me that there was a little more oxygen ingress than intended. While it's linear from the start to mid-palate, it starts to mellow away rapidly in the back end which mutes the anticipated penetrating finish. Still nice, but not at all the juicy, mineral von der Fels I love.
Jul 13th, 20202 years since my last bottle and this baby is still singing.
2 years since my last bottle and this baby is still singing.
May 4th, 2020Lemon zest, limestone, and apple. A lot of fun to drink and will be better in time.
Lemon zest, limestone, and apple. A lot of fun to drink and will be better in time.
Apr 20th, 2020Mainly primary on the nose. Generous. Grapefruit, lemon, lees/yeasty, touch of minerals. Good acidity, finish long with just a hint of round sweetness although RS<3g/L. All from GG sites, mainly Kirchspiel. For the price, an outrageous steel...12.5% alc
Mainly primary on the nose. Generous. Grapefruit, lemon, lees/yeasty, touch of minerals. Good acidity, finish long with just a hint of round sweetness although RS<3g/L. All from GG sites, mainly Kirchspiel. For the price, an outrageous steel...12.5% alc
Apr 2nd, 2020