Billes Noires Cornas Syrah

Deep, savage, brooding wild black and purple fruit, smoke, pepper, meat, rocks and distilled violets. There’s some carbonic element that’s settled in nicely. Its low SO2 upbringing is evident, VA is elevated but right up to my limit. Quite lifted and pungently aromatic! Found the tannins settled too, acidity is really driving, the northern gore soils are showing their impact. Enjoyed seeing some bottle development here.

The last in a strangely selected flight order, this was so young and primary it was hard to rate. Brambly, assertive nose. Whiffs of rhubarb. Angular but compelling, tanned leather, beef blood, smoked meat. Dark red fruit. This needs another 2-3 years in bottle or a much longer decant than it got.

First time for this producer, smoke show!!🌫🌫🌫

Syrah seemingly in the zeitgeist right now so I picked up this 2011 Coulet. Wow - it's so different than the Cote Rotie I just had. I know syrah can run the gamut but this is radically different. Biodynamic, low so2, neutral oak & concrete. Not really Vin de Garde; Not really Vin de Soif...

So what then? Certainly intense. Plum & liqueur-like raspberry notes that are both in-your-face "sexy" & "scary" at the same time. Even more prevalent than the fruit are the aromas of menthol, acetate, & iron. Nearly akin to robitussin - & I mean that in the best way possible. It's weirdly delicious & syrah freaks will get it.

Unfortunately, the regular consumer might find it to be too much. The slight volatility is both good & bad. It dials up the fruit's sweetness, giving the wine body & texture. But also amps up the medicinal quality. This is not a wine to guzzle & ignore. Admirably, not subtle.

Coincidentally this wine reminds me Pax - who is getting a lot of attention right now & rightfully so. I have't tried the new 100 point Hillside bottle yet (though I have one ready), but I've always been a huge fan of his wines for a long time. My favorite site he works with is Griffins Lair & I believe I've tasted every vintage of it going back to 2002. Those original vintages are bigger & riper (which I still love & fuck you hipsters for not), but even back then Pax never used superfluous new oak, sulfites, yeasts etc.. Yes, they were broad shouldered wines but they were pure & unmasked - like this Cornas. Some of the early 2000s Griffins Lair had a slight volitility that came across as kirsch sweetness. It's an interesting balance that punctuates the varietal character perfectly - & it demands your attention while doing it.

This Cornas is not some delicate wine that somms gush over; nor is it a slick, parkerized wine without sense of place. It's something else. A wine for the true syrah aficianado. The audience is small but those who can appreciate it, will appreciate it. If you like weirdness, intensity, complexity & the flavors to scream at you from the glass, this is your wine.

#cornas #syrah #coulet #biodynamic #pax #coterotie #rhone #northernrhone #rhonevalley

Austin had this 8 years ago

A well made wine, balanced and pure, but tastes too young, mostly primary fruit right now with some smoked meat and pepper lying underneath that ripe 2009 frame. I like my Cornas a little more crunchy and funky, though a few more years should multiply the complexity factor here.

This was smoking good. Funky as all hell.

Last bottle of the night. Oops, this was a wrong pick. Too big and bombastic after the elegance of the bottles we had before. Clearly syrah though & without a doubt 'vin nature'. Very intense wine.

Rustic funk, paired with overt ripeness. Spoke the Vintage but want more balance. Interesting...

2009