Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd Grüner Veltliner

The unlikely winner of our lunch wine shootout by sheer virtue of being properly stored. I say “unlikely” because in my experience Gruner tends to be the lesser grape when presented with Rieslings. Plus, a youthful Smaragd typically isn’t up my alley - they’re usually too rich and oily for effortless drinking. Although admittedly so here, the Knoll still trumped the Rieslings for being fresher. I’d take exotic fruits, candied ginger, less acidity and oily texture any day over heavy petrol notes. But don’t get me wrong. The Knoll was still an excellent wine. It wasn’t just a case of “losers can’t be choosers”. It was layered and had plenty to offer over lunch. Air brought about some interesting lemongrass and kafir lime notes, as well as a stony minerality. In the end, I was grateful for its presence, shedding some light to an otherwise woeful wine showing.