Martin Müllen
Alte Reben Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese** Trocken
Mosel, Germany
Gorgeous, wildly aromatic Paradies, with huge slate-pebble minerality, lemon and lime, white peach, apricot, wild mint and citrus skin, along with this wonderfully feral, almost underarm-like savory funk that makes the nose so distinctive. The palate is luscious, crystalline and incredibly pure, with beautiful citrus fruit, excellent concentration and exactly enough acidity to keep everything fresh without dominating the wine. With air it becomes rounder, juicier and more harmonious, very much the charm of 2023, which for me is about as normie and immediately pleasurable as a Müllen vintage gets. Long, balanced and beautiful, with terrific purity and no hard edges. 9.6 for now, and I’ll see what day two brings.
Gorgeous, wildly aromatic Paradies, with huge slate-pebble minerality, lemon and lime, white peach, apricot, wild mint and citrus skin, along with this wonderfully feral, almost underarm-like savory funk that makes the nose so distinctive. The palate is luscious, crystalline and incredibly pure, with beautiful citrus fruit, excellent concentration and exactly enough acidity to keep everything fresh without dominating the wine. With air it becomes rounder, juicier and more harmonious, very much the charm of 2023, which for me is about as normie and immediately pleasurable as a Müllen vintage gets. Long, balanced and beautiful, with terrific purity and no hard edges. 9.6 for now, and I’ll see what day two brings.