Jérôme Prévost
La Closerie Extra Brut Pinot Meunier
Vallée de la Marne, Champagne, France
My first Prevost La Closerie “&”. After enjoying many bottles of the regular La Closerie the last few years, I’ve had this as a bottle to try for a while. A portion of the wine comes from Prevost's Béguines vineyard (as does the entirety of the “regular” Closerie), and the rest comes from other sites in the village of Gueux.
LC21 (‘21 vintage); 100% Pinot meunièr, 2.5g/l dosage; disgorged Sept ‘23
Enjoyed side by side with the LC20 La Closerie. Although different vintages and slightly different fruit, you can see the similarities easily. Both have the typical Prevost deep champagne color and jump from the glass with ginger, spiced pear and caramel apple. The mid-palate continues similarities with the nutty and espresso profile but this takes a turn away from a noticeable oxidized profile to a more typical fruit-forward meunièr profile (brighter citrus, not as heavy). The finish isn’t as lengthy, however, after a few hours of being open, this drank nearly identical to the regular La Closerie (the oxidized notes came out and the finish bulked up in richness). No natty-vibes here.
Enjoyable side by side by arguably the master of Pinot meunièr.
My first Prevost La Closerie “&”. After enjoying many bottles of the regular La Closerie the last few years, I’ve had this as a bottle to try for a while. A portion of the wine comes from Prevost's Béguines vineyard (as does the entirety of the “regular” Closerie), and the rest comes from other sites in the village of Gueux.
LC21 (‘21 vintage); 100% Pinot meunièr, 2.5g/l dosage; disgorged Sept ‘23
Enjoyed side by side with the LC20 La Closerie. Although different vintages and slightly different fruit, you can see the similarities easily. Both have the typical Prevost deep champagne color and jump from the glass with ginger, spiced pear and caramel apple. The mid-palate continues similarities with the nutty and espresso profile but this takes a turn away from a noticeable oxidized profile to a more typical fruit-forward meunièr profile (brighter citrus, not as heavy). The finish isn’t as lengthy, however, after a few hours of being open, this drank nearly identical to the regular La Closerie (the oxidized notes came out and the finish bulked up in richness). No natty-vibes here.
Enjoyable side by side by arguably the master of Pinot meunièr.
I have a tenuous rapport with this cuvée. By my estimation, fewer than 30% of the bottles rise to an acceptable standard - often marred by mousiness, excessive oxidation, or, regrettably, both. So happy to report that I finally understand people’s love for this wine: here’s a bottle of extraordinary grace, devoid of any trace of those usual flaws.
It unfolded with a beguiling array of scents - red apple, kumquat, fresh bread, white florals, chalk, ginger, and even a trace of dried herbs. On the palate, vinous and alive with beautiful energy, finishing long and saline. And yet, despite this moment of brilliance, I can’t justify the gamble - not when the Les Béguines stands as a safer, surer choice.
I have a tenuous rapport with this cuvée. By my estimation, fewer than 30% of the bottles rise to an acceptable standard - often marred by mousiness, excessive oxidation, or, regrettably, both. So happy to report that I finally understand people’s love for this wine: here’s a bottle of extraordinary grace, devoid of any trace of those usual flaws.
It unfolded with a beguiling array of scents - red apple, kumquat, fresh bread, white florals, chalk, ginger, and even a trace of dried herbs. On the palate, vinous and alive with beautiful energy, finishing long and saline. And yet, despite this moment of brilliance, I can’t justify the gamble - not when the Les Béguines stands as a safer, surer choice.
Checking in on the LC20. Less mouse than the last 19 and more saline too I felt, but still looked a little strange to me. Opened one month post transport, so could still be in shock. Nevertheless, this continues my lacklustre run with the Ampersand cuvée.
Checking in on the LC20. Less mouse than the last 19 and more saline too I felt, but still looked a little strange to me. Opened one month post transport, so could still be in shock. Nevertheless, this continues my lacklustre run with the Ampersand cuvée.
Sep 17th, 2023Consistent with my last notes, though the fruits felt a little more baked here. Perhaps it was the occasion, but I was not particularly fond of it this time round. Essentially the flaws outweighed the intrigue.
Consistent with my last notes, though the fruits felt a little more baked here. Perhaps it was the occasion, but I was not particularly fond of it this time round. Essentially the flaws outweighed the intrigue.
Jun 12th, 2023Super umami nose, reminiscent of the tomato seasoning you might find on chips. Savoury, saline, and electric on the palate, with fruits taking the back seat. Once more, the Pandan-like mousiness prevailed in the finish, despite how different this bottle appeared from the previous one. A crowd favourite on this evening. Still pleasurable despite its flaws for me, but give me the vintage’s Les Beguines over this any day!
Super umami nose, reminiscent of the tomato seasoning you might find on chips. Savoury, saline, and electric on the palate, with fruits taking the back seat. Once more, the Pandan-like mousiness prevailed in the finish, despite how different this bottle appeared from the previous one. A crowd favourite on this evening. Still pleasurable despite its flaws for me, but give me the vintage’s Les Beguines over this any day!
Aug 27th, 2022I was excited to try Jerome Prevost’s cuvée “&” for the first time (notably, the LC19’s the second iteration of this cuvée), but this bottle fell short of expectations. It just didn’t have the intensity one would expect of Jerome’s wines. Maybe it needed more air, but the touch of mousiness was a compelling enough reason to drink fast. Across dinner, it never really offended, with the mousiness only appearing as a Pandan-like note as one swallows, and the more animale nature arising from one’s breath after. However, it did seem to cut short the verticality of the wine, which I liked - lean, high acid, with a distinct chalkiness. Other flavours of interest include pears, nectarine, cream, touch of clove, and quite a bit of nuttiness. Flavours were there for me and it was good with dinner, but it was just missing the typical Les Beguines magic. On to the next bottle - hopefully better.
I was excited to try Jerome Prevost’s cuvée “&” for the first time (notably, the LC19’s the second iteration of this cuvée), but this bottle fell short of expectations. It just didn’t have the intensity one would expect of Jerome’s wines. Maybe it needed more air, but the touch of mousiness was a compelling enough reason to drink fast. Across dinner, it never really offended, with the mousiness only appearing as a Pandan-like note as one swallows, and the more animale nature arising from one’s breath after. However, it did seem to cut short the verticality of the wine, which I liked - lean, high acid, with a distinct chalkiness. Other flavours of interest include pears, nectarine, cream, touch of clove, and quite a bit of nuttiness. Flavours were there for me and it was good with dinner, but it was just missing the typical Les Beguines magic. On to the next bottle - hopefully better.
Jul 7th, 2022
