This leads with smoky, stony and pungent notes to which scents of apple, white peach and grapefruit take a back seat. The palate – satiny, yet with underlying firmness, and surprisingly buoyant – offers smoky black tea, peppery olive oil, piquant kumquat, tingling stony impingements plus a crunchy, incisive cut of mustard seed and white currant. The upshot is an energetic, highly invigorating finish offering a dynamic interchange of diverse fruit and mineral elements, but by no means oblivious to Riesling’s first duty to refresh. Look for time in bottle to bring greater textural allure, typically a hallmark of Immich-Batterieberg bottlings. (David Schildknecht, Vinous, January 2020)
This leads with smoky, stony and pungent notes to which scents of apple, white peach and grapefruit take a back seat. The palate – satiny, yet with underlying firmness, and surprisingly buoyant – offers smoky black tea, peppery olive oil, piquant kumquat, tingling stony impingements plus a crunchy, incisive cut of mustard seed and white currant. The upshot is an energetic, highly invigorating finish offering a dynamic interchange of diverse fruit and mineral elements, but by no means oblivious to Riesling’s first duty to refresh. Look for time in bottle to bring greater textural allure, typically a hallmark of Immich-Batterieberg bottlings. (David Schildknecht, Vinous, January 2020)
Jan 24th, 2020
Mosel, Germany
