Domaine Bertrand Stehelin
Gigondas Red Rhone Blend
Nose has extremely dark berry fruit, loads of low-toned cracked rock. In the mouth it’s pretty highly extracted, with dark fruit and dark mineral flavors. But they’re a bit overmatched by an astringent scorchy streak. Bitter on the finish. Yet another disappointing southern Rhône. It’s odd to me that modern critics don’t seem to mind how foursquare, blocky, and monolithic southern Rhônes have become since, say, 2003. Maybe my repeated recent disappointment is because the benchmarks I have for these wines was set in the 80s, when they seemed (at least in my memory) to have more life, acidity, and transparency. They were big, yes, but they possessed more elegance to accompany their relative large size.
Nose has extremely dark berry fruit, loads of low-toned cracked rock. In the mouth it’s pretty highly extracted, with dark fruit and dark mineral flavors. But they’re a bit overmatched by an astringent scorchy streak. Bitter on the finish. Yet another disappointing southern Rhône. It’s odd to me that modern critics don’t seem to mind how foursquare, blocky, and monolithic southern Rhônes have become since, say, 2003. Maybe my repeated recent disappointment is because the benchmarks I have for these wines was set in the 80s, when they seemed (at least in my memory) to have more life, acidity, and transparency. They were big, yes, but they possessed more elegance to accompany their relative large size.
Aug 8th, 2021