The seventeenth vintage of Cheval des Andes, a wine that has undergone a model transformation. I recently tried the 2007, and it’s fascinating to trace the different stages of its evolution, all of which say something about the contemporary history of Argentine wine. To sum up, it started out with a French love of concentration and ripeness and ended up with an equally French love of equilibrium and local terroir. The 2017 is a new beginning in itself. A blend of Malbec with 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, it presents a bold nose of fresh fruit such as sweet and sour cherry with fleshy aromas and a touch of white pepper over a bold, woody backdrop. A fluid wine, slightly taut on the palate with medium structure, a delicate feel and active tannins well integrated into the terse texture, overall it is nuanced and full of flavor. Possesses a balance that respects the concentration of the vintage without ever letting it get out of hand. An Argentine wine made with more than a nod to French expertise. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
ALH put the finishing touches to its new profile with the 2017 vintage, in which a focus on terroir, ripeness and judicious use of oak resulted in reductive-style, austere reds with palates dominated by freshness and a linear feel. Bright purple in the glass, with austere aromas reminiscent of herbs and cherry that fade on the chalky palate. Progresses in a linear fashion in the mouth, presenting a vertical complexion that leaves behind juice and a lengthy, herbal finish. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
This Cabernet Franc, made with grapes from Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, is one of the best that Argentina has to offer. Aged for 18 months in French barrels, half of them new, it is garnet in hue. The nose delivers intense aromas with inviting, well-defined notes of roasted red pepper, black currant, sour cherry and pepper. The wood comes out in the mouth, where it brings softness, volume, muscle and outline. This is pure but elegantly packaged power with a sustained, flavorful finish. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
A Criolla Chica planted in Barreal, Calingasta, at 1,550 meters above sea level, up to 10% fermented in whole bunches. Terracotta in hue, it presents notes of strawberry, damp earth, herbs and traces of menthol as well as faint aromas of almond cookie and rum cake. Offers a complex mix of simple flavors; on the palate, the tannins are active with heightened freshness and a ruggedness that sticks to the gums, while the innate fruitiness comes out at the back of the throat. A great wine with a profile one rarely sees in reds on the local scene. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Malbec, and 20% Merlot that spent nine-and-a-half years in old casks, this wine has already developed an attractive bouquet of undergrowth, dried red fruit, herbs, potpourri, olives and truffle plus a hint of coconut. Gentle on the palate, it is well-integrated and full of flavor. The fine tannins make for a silky passage, leading to a lengthy, bouquet-driven finish. An unusual wine. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
A Malbec from old vines in Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo, that spent 12 months aging in one-third new and two-thirds used oak. Bright purple in the glass. The nose features candied plum and jam and hints of pepper and allspice, as well as tomato preserve, vanilla and herbs. Concentrated, substantial and well-balanced, with a light, slightly rustic feel enhanced by the active tannins, which also deepen the profile. Well made in a ripe style. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
A Malbec from Vista Flores aged for eight months in cement and French oak. The very fruity nose features plum, blackberry and red currants and a pleasant note of mint. Relaxed on the palate, with gentle but discernible tannins, it is supported by moderate freshness that makes it especially easy to drink. Long, fruity aftertaste. This is a cozy, delicious wine that delivers concentration and flavor without ever squeezing too hard, and tannins that work very well in an Uco Valley Malbec. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
An unusual wine for Argentina, this Malbec from Luján de Cuyo spent eight-and-a-half years in old oak before it was bottled in May 2019. Dominated by the aging, it presents a nose of peat, camphor, black olive and dry flowers; fruit is very much an afterthought. Well-developed, conveying a gentle feel, a silky texture and active tannins that lightly brush the gums to augur a long life span. A sunny Burgundy made in the old style to last for a very long time. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
Combining grapes from the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, Achaval Ferrer bottled this Cabernet Sauvignon after aging it for 12 months in used French barrels. Deep red with a purple sheen. The nose offers licorice, black currant and white pepper. Firm, grippy tannins set off the core of a fruit-forward palate and a lengthy, smoky finish. Will grow more well-rounded with time. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago
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Made with grapes from vineyards in Perdriel, Las Compuertas (replacing Lunlunta) and Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, this Malbec spent 18 months in mostly French oak, 24% of it new. Intense reddish-violet in hue. The nose offers ripe fruit with plum jam and hints of camphor, cigar box, black tea and pepper plus a delicate kirsch perfume. The tannins are dusty but gentle, while the wood lends a delicate touch. Voluminous with a terse texture, medium body and a long, pleasant finish. (Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, October 2020) — 4 years ago