Old World vs. New: GSMs

I want to begin by musing on Old vs. New World terminology. Is it even reliable anymore? To wit, I was recently blind tasted on a Côtes du Rhone, and I thought it was a Zinfandel. So either this planet is burning down soon, or I should have my Diploma ripped from me. Apologies, I went dark fast there. All I’m saying is that wine styles are constantly in flux given both palates and mother nature (and carbon footprints, ahem). So, why did GSM become a thing? I wish I knew more about the Three Stooges so I could formulate some fun analogy like Moe is all tannins, but Curly is roasted meats or some such thing, but…wait, I’ve got it, GSMs are like Luke (Syrah), Leia (Grenache), and Han Solo (Mourvèdre). Syrah is the hero, the star with inherent abilities, although it sometimes takes time (and training with Yoda) to unlock his full capabilities. Grenache (aka Garnacha) is graceful and adds red fruit, white pepper, and feminine flowers but DAYUMM Grenache has big alcohol sass and strength. And then we have Mourvèdre (aka Monastrell, aka Mataro) which is rugged, brooding, and there to save the day, but only if it feels like saving it. If you hate Star Wars, I’m sorry for these analogies, and I also feel sorry for you and your joyless life. But you can still enjoy a GSM! It’s been a while since I created a mano a mano battle betwixt wines. And maybe doing that is silly, but it is fun all the same. And maybe you’ll find some future favorites. GSM blends are best known for being from the Southern Rhône Valley, where other grapes can work their way into blends, but Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are the MVPs. You can also find GSMs from even further south in the Languedoc and Roussillon. GSMs also crop up in Australia, where they may call Syrah Shiraz and may call Mourvèdre Mataro. Another respected output comes from California. Let’s start there! CALIFORNIA 2022 Black Sheep Finds Hocus Pocus GSM The second label to Amy Christine’s Holus Bolus, but still top-notch. From Santa Barbara! It gives ripe black fruit (cherries, plums, berries) for days with a touch of licorice and lilacs on the nose. The palate is spritely, with decent acid and sandy tannins adding grip to a surprisingly light-bodied blend. Easy-going but complex enough to add intrigue. 2019 Larner Elemental GSM Super bright! More acid than your average New World bear. From Ballard Canyon, a subregion of Santa Ynez, a subregion of Santa Barbara. 57% Grenache/40% Syrah/3% Mourvèdre. Caramelized red plum nose. The palate is spritely, purple geode energy with spices from pepper to clove saying hiiii. So much strawberry jam layered on top of drying but polite tannins. It all somehow leads to a cola finish, which is utterly delightful. 2019 Big Basin Gabilan Mountains GSM Ooh, skipping to cooler climate Cali for this gem from Monterey! Proportionally, this shows up in the opposite order. It is 39% Mourvèdre, 33% Grenache and 28% Syrah. I’m just gonna say now it is exceptional. Its choreography of meaty Mourvèdre, elegant Grenache and peppery Syrah is elite. Ethereal but grounded on the palate, lifting but textured. Licorice skips through the red flowers and black plums. It is more meaty on the nose, more fruit-forward on the palate, and truly balanced and supple. I love it. AUSTRALIA Obviously, they are known for their take on Syrah as Shiraz, but they are pulling off GSM blends, too! 2018 Robert Oakley McLaren Vale Signature GSM This 44% Grenache/42% Syrah/14% Mourvèdre is (forgive for the basicness of the word, but it’s true) delicious. It’s one of those blends where you really pick up each of the grapes’ best offerings. Plummy dried purple fruit and fresh red plums mingle with black olive, meeting floral hints, all ballasted with earth and minerality. The nose is rather enchanting. The tannin/alcohol/acid balance is appreciated. It is warming, spicy, and lifting, but with saline notes on top of tobacco. And punches WAY over its weight for the price point. 2020 Barossa Valley Estate GSM It is full of ripe red plums and polished earthy notes of game and soil. The palate is considerably spicier, with drips of black pepper and drops of olive brine. It is totally tasty and easy to sip (slowly) solo, but it would be even more prime with food. CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE Technically, there can be up to 13 grape varieties (or more if you count the color mutations of a few varieties), but Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre are frequently significant components. I tried to try the ones that leaned into the GSM of it all. 2021 M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre—a total stunner she is, drinkable now with a body to go the distance. The nose brings red fruits (plums, cherries, strawberries) and roses and rose petals. The palate is silky-smooth, fresh fruit giving way to tootsie roll and stewed fruit flavors, augmented by earth and sanguine balsamic grooves, a bit of herbal garrigue carrying the day. The finish carries on, persistent and solidly ethereal if we can make that a thing. 2022 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme Don’t get me wrong, I love all VT, but I wanted to include their second label, Télégramme, as it is earlier drinking and easier on the wallet than some options. Not that this bottle, 80% Grenache/10% Syrah/6% Mourvèdre/4% Cinsault (it’s a GSMC, so sue me) doesn’t reward ample decanting. The nose at first brings shy strawberry fruit leather, a little licorice and bay leaf comes out with swirling. The palate echoes the nose with slight violet and white pepper notes amping up, and the fruit core hits mid-palate, which is a fancy pants way of saying it’s fruit-forward at heart with all sorts of spicy trimmings, ending again with the licorice note. Very smooth, velvety tannins nip the roof of your mouth while the alcohol is up there, but not rude (14.5%). DO NOT NEGLECT THE SOUTH The south of France offers insane quality for the price. A few years ago, I had the pleasure of discovering Languedoc wines, and stateside, I have enjoyed discovering the Roussillon offerings. 2019 Domaine Lafage Tessellae Old Vines GSM 50% Grenache/40% Syrah/10% Mourvèdre, from the Côtes du Roussillon, to be specific. It is neither the most complex nor elegant, but it has spirit and sticks to the bones if you will (and you should). The fruit is fun—various dried and fruit leather blackberries, black plums, dried strawberries and slight red dried cherry coated in dark chocolate—the last one may sound specific, but it is REAL. The acidity is not huge, nor is the tannin, and yet somehow, this wine balances out as vibrant (but also warming), finishing with blueberry cordial. Oh, those tannins—they are medium and a little coarse. Hits WAY above the price point. WHO DO I LOVE? WHO DO I NEED? This is my new shower wine segment, where I pick which wine I would not only sip in the spray but also date with genuine intentions. This time around, I have to give it up to Vieux Telegraphe Télégramme; I’ve loved them a long time, and I’m gonna keep it up.