
Arcibiskupská vinice Modřany
Jiří Janatka
Zweigeltrebe 2002 — 12 years ago
Winery Lobkovicz
Region Mělník
CZ — 12 years ago
Arcibiskupská vinice Modřany
Praha
Jiří Janatka
Zweigeltrebe 2001 — 12 years ago
This is a knockout wine, a stunner, a pitch-perfect expression of love for wine in general, and Loire Cab Franc in particular. It's wild in all the right places, and impressively refined where it counts.
Medium ruby color. Arresting and straight-up delicious nose that has a certain choreography to it. Specifically it reminds me of Jiří Kylián - finding freedom within a melange of classicism and visceral impetus. Exuberance in wine is rare enough, but exuberance with such focus and intention?
The classicist bent was my first impression - a correct nose of stewed bell peppers and coffee grounds (pyrazines), earthy dog fur with slight clove (brett), and a savory blackberry-cherry fruit compote.
Tasted blind, you would guess Loire, but you might wonder at the shifting nature, at how occasionally the bretty flavors rear up in a flourish, only to be overshadowed a second later by a warm, pure fruit. There is something haunting about the fruit here - it seems to contain memories of many different wines. The wildness is complex - dried leaves, dog fur, toasted mushroom, spiced clove, moist earth. The pyrazinic aromas have uncommon depth and character - stewed bell pepper, coffee, and nascent tobacco.
On the palate, the wine dances with an elegant 12.6% alcohol frame, vibrant acidity, and satiny tannins - the medium on which the finish is printed. There is a moment, mid-palate, where the individual components come together seamlessly - a strong argument for structural-aromatic integration in the Clark Smithian sense. On the finish, the flavors subtly unravel, then persist like a vocal ensemble with synchronized vibrato.
Get this. — 9 years ago
Lyle Fass

Founder Fass Selections
I love this wine. So good and so unique. Nose is so mineral. Hint of butter as well. Some smoke and flintiness as well. Palate is racy, rich and so pure. Great focus and length. So clean. This wine could get a stain out of a carpet. Superb freshness, concentration and purity. Long and sapid. — 4 years ago