Vieux Château Certan
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend
Pomerol, Libournais, Bordeaux, France
The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 14 at a low yield of 30hl/ha. The nose might be even better than the 2019 with blackberry, black truffle, pencil shavings and a touch of sous-bois. The aromatics are heavenly, perhaps even more complex than the 2016. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-textured entry and fabulous delineation. This is a Pomerol whose engine purrs like a vintage Rolls Royce. Maybe the 2019 has a touch more edginess on the finish but this is the real deal. It's a sensational, multi-dimensional Pomerol for the ages. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 14 at a low yield of 30hl/ha. The nose might be even better than the 2019 with blackberry, black truffle, pencil shavings and a touch of sous-bois. The aromatics are heavenly, perhaps even more complex than the 2016. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-textured entry and fabulous delineation. This is a Pomerol whose engine purrs like a vintage Rolls Royce. Maybe the 2019 has a touch more edginess on the finish but this is the real deal. It's a sensational, multi-dimensional Pomerol for the ages. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2019 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 23 after light showers the previous day. "We dared to add some Cabernet Sauvignon in 2019, which gives complexity," Alexandre Thienpont remarks, "but the Cabernet was 'killed' in 2020." It has a much more discrete bouquet than the 2018, unfolding with truffle-tinged black fruit. There are fewer marmalade scents than I noticed a couple of years ago, but there is absolutely stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, like a cousin of the superlative 2016 in many ways, but it may be silkier towards the finish. Elegant yet paradoxically intense, this is VCC at full flight. And it's only on its opening pages! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2019 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 23 after light showers the previous day. "We dared to add some Cabernet Sauvignon in 2019, which gives complexity," Alexandre Thienpont remarks, "but the Cabernet was 'killed' in 2020." It has a much more discrete bouquet than the 2018, unfolding with truffle-tinged black fruit. There are fewer marmalade scents than I noticed a couple of years ago, but there is absolutely stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, like a cousin of the superlative 2016 in many ways, but it may be silkier towards the finish. Elegant yet paradoxically intense, this is VCC at full flight. And it's only on its opening pages! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2018 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 30% Cabernet Franc, has a commendable bouquet given the heat of that season. Blackberry, a touch of damson, scorched earth and light violet scents emerge with aeration. That said, it doesn't fully have the delineation of the previous vintage. The palate is powerful and typically burly for VCC, yet it has a lovely powdery texture (less silky than before) with a vibrant, peppery and persistent finish. Maybe not as opulent as it once was, but it is unquestionably one of the superior Pomerols. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2018 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 30% Cabernet Franc, has a commendable bouquet given the heat of that season. Blackberry, a touch of damson, scorched earth and light violet scents emerge with aeration. That said, it doesn't fully have the delineation of the previous vintage. The palate is powerful and typically burly for VCC, yet it has a lovely powdery texture (less silky than before) with a vibrant, peppery and persistent finish. Maybe not as opulent as it once was, but it is unquestionably one of the superior Pomerols. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2017 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12. This has a perfumed and quite floral bouquet with blackberries and violets. It shows lovely definition and mineralité, that hint of wild heather coming through but none of the previous menthol scents. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced with chiseled tannins, which are a perfect bead of acidity. I adore how this gathers momentum towards the lightly spiced, persistent finish. This shows better than when I tasted it just after bottling six years ago, hence my higher score. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2017 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12. This has a perfumed and quite floral bouquet with blackberries and violets. It shows lovely definition and mineralité, that hint of wild heather coming through but none of the previous menthol scents. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced with chiseled tannins, which are a perfect bead of acidity. I adore how this gathers momentum towards the lightly spiced, persistent finish. This shows better than when I tasted it just after bottling six years ago, hence my higher score. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2016 Vieux Château Certan was picked at 40hl/ha. Layers and layers of pure black fruit billow from the glass, showing stunning delineation, tension, real mineralité and harmony. The oak is seamlessly integrated, and the aromatics just seem to "purr" with quality and class. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, perfectly judged acidity, judiciously spiced with a peacock's tail on the finish that deserves a standing applause. The greatest VCC in recent years? Without question... Until 2020. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2016 Vieux Château Certan was picked at 40hl/ha. Layers and layers of pure black fruit billow from the glass, showing stunning delineation, tension, real mineralité and harmony. The oak is seamlessly integrated, and the aromatics just seem to "purr" with quality and class. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, perfectly judged acidity, judiciously spiced with a peacock's tail on the finish that deserves a standing applause. The greatest VCC in recent years? Without question... Until 2020. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2014 Vieux Château Certan comes from two bottles, the first out of condition. The second has a potent Cabernet Franc-driven nose, which is no surprise, as it comprises 30% of the blend: bell pepper and black pepper infusing the black fruit. There is almost a Loire-like scent. The palate is medium-bodied with granular tannins, fine acidity and grip with truffle and raspberry. It's earthy with just a touch of dark chocolate on the finish. This Pomerol is surfeit with character and is just about to enter its drinking window. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2014 Vieux Château Certan comes from two bottles, the first out of condition. The second has a potent Cabernet Franc-driven nose, which is no surprise, as it comprises 30% of the blend: bell pepper and black pepper infusing the black fruit. There is almost a Loire-like scent. The palate is medium-bodied with granular tannins, fine acidity and grip with truffle and raspberry. It's earthy with just a touch of dark chocolate on the finish. This Pomerol is surfeit with character and is just about to enter its drinking window. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2011 Vieux Château Certan, which the Thienponts compare to 1983 and 1988, has a much lighter, simpler bouquet compared to the previous vintage. Maybe a bit conservative with tobacco-tinged black fruit, though it opens nicely with shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, firm tannins that frame the black fruit laced with cracked black pepper and graphite. Vibrant and vivacious, this is drinking well but has the substance to age in bottle. A dark horse! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2011 Vieux Château Certan, which the Thienponts compare to 1983 and 1988, has a much lighter, simpler bouquet compared to the previous vintage. Maybe a bit conservative with tobacco-tinged black fruit, though it opens nicely with shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, firm tannins that frame the black fruit laced with cracked black pepper and graphite. Vibrant and vivacious, this is drinking well but has the substance to age in bottle. A dark horse! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2008 Vieux Château Certan was cropped at 34hl/ha and contains more Cabernets compared to other vintages. Their contribution is tangible on the nose: pencil shavings and tertiary scents are pretty potent and lend it a Left Bank allure. The palate is fresh and vibrant with grainy tannins, graphite-driven, fresh and tensile with a persistent finish. Certainly, one of the best Pomerols in this challenging growing season, VCC at its most Médoc. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2204)
The 2008 Vieux Château Certan was cropped at 34hl/ha and contains more Cabernets compared to other vintages. Their contribution is tangible on the nose: pencil shavings and tertiary scents are pretty potent and lend it a Left Bank allure. The palate is fresh and vibrant with grainy tannins, graphite-driven, fresh and tensile with a persistent finish. Certainly, one of the best Pomerols in this challenging growing season, VCC at its most Médoc. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2204)
The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. "There was a lot of drought in 2005," Alexandre Thienpont recalls, "and it was a season a bit like 1982." This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would expect, laden with predominantly red fruit laced with anise and wilted rose petals. Impressive delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins, fresh and sapid in style, more open than the bottle tasted four years earlier. It veers towards a more savory finish. Subtle, ferrous, almost meaty notes lend complexity and typicité. Persistent on the aftertaste, this is a VCC that is just getting going. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. "There was a lot of drought in 2005," Alexandre Thienpont recalls, "and it was a season a bit like 1982." This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would expect, laden with predominantly red fruit laced with anise and wilted rose petals. Impressive delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins, fresh and sapid in style, more open than the bottle tasted four years earlier. It veers towards a more savory finish. Subtle, ferrous, almost meaty notes lend complexity and typicité. Persistent on the aftertaste, this is a VCC that is just getting going. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2004 Vieux Château Certan was picked starting September 20. This is a little fuller on the nose compared to the 2002, with more fruit concentration, red plum and raspberry, wilted rose petals and a touch of thyme. This is very endearing and open, yet there is vigor. The palate is well-balanced with finely chiseled tannins. While not the most complex vintages of this decade, it is very well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced with a dash of cracked black pepper on the finish. I have admired this Pomerol since first tasting it from barrel, and I still do. Drink now or over the next 12 to 15 years. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)
The 2004 Vieux Château Certan was picked starting September 20. This is a little fuller on the nose compared to the 2002, with more fruit concentration, red plum and raspberry, wilted rose petals and a touch of thyme. This is very endearing and open, yet there is vigor. The palate is well-balanced with finely chiseled tannins. While not the most complex vintages of this decade, it is very well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced with a dash of cracked black pepper on the finish. I have admired this Pomerol since first tasting it from barrel, and I still do. Drink now or over the next 12 to 15 years. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2024)