La Closerie Extra Brut Pinot Meunier

I have a tenuous rapport with this cuvée. By my estimation, fewer than 30% of the bottles rise to an acceptable standard - often marred by mousiness, excessive oxidation, or, regrettably, both. So happy to report that I finally understand people’s love for this wine: here’s a bottle of extraordinary grace, devoid of any trace of those usual flaws.

It unfolded with a beguiling array of scents - red apple, kumquat, fresh bread, white florals, chalk, ginger, and even a trace of dried herbs. On the palate, vinous and alive with beautiful energy, finishing long and saline. And yet, despite this moment of brilliance, I can’t justify the gamble - not when the Les Béguines stands as a safer, surer choice.

Checking in on the LC20. Less mouse than the last 19 and more saline too I felt, but still looked a little strange to me. Opened one month post transport, so could still be in shock. Nevertheless, this continues my lacklustre run with the Ampersand cuvée.