Chip Hughes

9.3

Complete, typical Pommard that isn’t inky, overly tannic or reduced. Game juices, grated spice and a ferrous, complex fruit that marks all Billard’s wines. Drink it now; drink it in 20 years...this masterful wine will always show you something new and challenge the assumption that Pommard requires extended cellaring to be quality. — 10 hours ago

Chip Hughes

9.0

A change in direction with the 2018 version of this wine: bright, fresh, floral and almost Grignolino-like. Lots of little strawberries and cherries. Took a chill nicely, and the chill pointed the acidity and brought the whole thing together. — 9 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.3

Black fruits, very ripe (but not overripe like many ‘17s), shows the modern approach a bit more than previous vintages. Just a hint of new barrel. About as good as hot-vintage Barbera can be. — 17 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.5

If you can’t handle a touch of brett, avoid this. But for those who can...here’s a wild sour ale, trapped in a bottle of Riesling-heavy Edelzwicker. The nose is pure, pretty, floral Riesling, and the sour/spicy thing kicks in on the palate in a masterful and balanced way that gives the impression of being a studied, deliberate choice in the cellar. The brett carries through into the long, savory finish in a thirst-quenching manner (again, much like sour ale). This wine demands all your attention, so don’t pull it out for casual quaffing, chill it too hard or serve it in anything less than great glassware. Another singular and challenging wine from the most interesting growers in the FLX. — 5 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.4

If Verdigny Sancerre is your thing, buy as much of this as you can. It’s massive in the typical ‘18 way, with waves of ripe capsicum and flint on the nose and palate. The long, acid finish persisted through six days open, and the intensity never wavered. Insane. — 12 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.1

Citronella, sea spray, touch of pignoli. Big acids; structured and long. Always an attractive “dirty martini” quality with this cuvée. Big value. — 19 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.1

All fruit for this cuvée comes from Vinsobres (Guigal’s new source for CDR blends). Has the lift, acids and balance that ‘15 and ‘16 lacked a bit. Big dollop of pure, clean, juicy Syrah makes this a cut above. No simple little Grenache here. Fraises, ripe plums, grated spice. — 6 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.2

All the extra heft and concentration you want from top pink Bandol. Spicy, mineral elements play nice with white peach, nectarine fruitiness. IMO, every bit the wine Tempier Rosé is, at a fraction of the price. — 8 days ago

Chip Hughes

9.2

After another summer of spitting out mostly carbonic pink wine that tastes of nothing other than canned grapefruit juice...here’s this. Round, clear and complete. No tricks, no spoof. Exceptional. — 12 days ago

Chip Hughes

8.7

By any standard of judging rustic, monolithic Pinot Noir, this is a beauty. However, it’s also an object lesson in how global warming is obliterating any opportunity that difficult-climate vintners have at capturing a sense of place or vintage. — 20 days ago