Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021

Winemakers in Chablis are inured to whatever Mother Nature throws at them each year. Located at the notional latitudinal limit for “viticulture worth writing about”, winemakers and vines alike know the risks that lie ahead. That limit must have surely crept northwards in recent years, nudged along by global warming. Some Chablis aficionados shake their sticks and argue that the region has forsaken its steeliness and mineral drive, what I sometimes think of as Chablis’ aloof persona. Whereas most Côte de Beaune’s whites seek to appease the imbiber, Chablis snootily says: “Take it, or leave it.” This uncompromising nature appeals to some, and it is undoubtedly off-putting to others. Me? I am not averse to it. Just at the moment when Chablis was coming to terms with the hot summers and resulting style of wines, in sashays a season like 2021, a curveball that confronted winemakers with every conceivable challenge, while simultaneously presenting an opportunity to recreate the Chablis of old and a style presumed extinguished in our new climate. It’s all swings and roundabouts. As usual, upon arriving in Chablis, I was immediately smitten by its tranquil atmosphere and prettiness. The Serein river glides through the town, bluebottles skimming between lilies and motionless fish letting the current flow by. The town center is low-key and rustic with a smattering of cafés, boulangeries and charcuteries selling the famous AAA andouillettes (still no vegan option incidentally) and producers’ tasting rooms hoping to tempt tourists, not that they exactly descend on Chablis by the coachload. As I mentioned in past reports, the town is slowly being spruced up. It remains a wonderful gustatory destination courtesy of the Au Fil du Zinc, Trois Bourgeons and Bistro Maufoux restaurants, all top-notch and boasting wine lists that shame many in Beaune. Apart from the cuisine, it also serves as a neat way to see the real prices of François Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat’s wines. More on that later. Construction continues on the Cité des Cimats & Vin that will stand opposite the BIVB building. It will be interesting to see whether this will serve as a magnet for more to visit Chablis. Remarkably few Burgundy-lovers make the 90-minute drive from Beaune, and on second thoughts, maybe the selfish side of me would like it to stay that way. This year’s Chablis report examines the 2020 and 2021 seasons - vintages with little in common. Spending several days in the region at the end of June, I conducted a wide-ranging blind tasting at the offices of the BIVB, samples corralled according to status and climat. The wines that were tasted blind, approximately half in this report, are indicated as such at the end of respective notes. As usual, this was augmented by numerous tastings with producers that included a couple of maiden visits to the likes of Château de Béru and Domaine Pinson. --Neal Martin, Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021, September 2022 To read Neal’s full report and learn more about the 2020 and 2021 growing seasons, check out the full article on Vinous now .

Domaine Louis Moreau

Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru Chardonnay 2020

Delectable Wine
9.1

The 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with hints of peach skin, undergrowth and resin scents, becoming more floral with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, quite tensile with a touch of dried honey emerging towards the finish, reflecting that warm summer. Very fine. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 2 years ago

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils

Vaillon Chablis 1er Cru Chardonnay 2020

Delectable Wine
9.0

The 2020 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru, which was bottled just before the harvest, has an attractive bouquet with light flinty, earthy aromas. The palate is well balanced with orange pith and touches of mango, fine acidity and harmonious with a twist of bitter lemon that enlivens the finish. Fine length here. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 2 years ago

Domaine Pinson Frères

Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru Chardonnay 2020

Delectable Wine
9.2

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru, which was bottled in February, has a perfumed, slightly floral bouquet that maybe just needs a little more complexity. Perhaps I prefer the Mont-de-Milieu tasted alongside. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, quite saline with a long tail on the finish. I feel this just needs a little more bottle age. Fine. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 2 years ago

Domaine des Malandes

Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru Chardonnay 2020

Delectable Wine
9.4

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a light, quite steely bouquet that gathers steam with aeration, one of the more marine-influenced wines from Les Clos this year. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, quite taut and focused with a touch of spice lending another dimension on the finish. Composed and classy. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 2 years ago

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