This Week's Must-Try Wines
Château Beychevelle
Saint-Julien Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Beychevelle was perplexing from barrel. Re-tasting it three or four times, I discerned a faint but nagging vegetal note on the finish, though it was not evident on a bottle subsequently tasted at the property, which governed my banded score. Returning to Bordeaux to taste the wines that had been bottled in June 2022, I certainly appreciate the bouquet that is clean and pure with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and background sous-bois aromas. The oak is beautifully integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and well-judged acidity. Quite intense black fruit laced with graphite, perhaps a tad more peppery than usual. On the first bottle encountered at a merchant, I picked up on the green note that sent alarm bells ringing. A second bottle at the château unequivocally showed no signs at all, very sleek and poised with a residual tingle of black pepper. Based on this sample, I am cautiously optimistic about this Beychevelle, though I will always keep a lookout for that trait. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Beauregard
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Beauregard has a well-defined bouquet with raspberry and cranberry fruit, cedar and light pencil box aromas. This fulfills its promise from barrel, while the palate is well balanced with pliant tannins, fresh and saline with a slightly ferrous finish. This is an excellent Beauregard that will give up to 20 years of drinking pleasure. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Calon-Ségur
Saint-Estèphe Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Calon-Ségur is allowed to open for over 90 minutes, unfurling in the glass with blackberry and bilberry scents, cedar and floral scents (almost identical to how it showed in barrel.) It just oozes pedigree. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins and quite plush red fruit. It is very well balanced without the backbone and depth of say, Montrose or Cos d'Estournel. It has gained a bit of heft on the finish during its élevage. However, it fans out in assured fashion. This should drink beautifully for 25 to 30 years. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Berliquet
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
When I tasted the barrel sample, the 2020 Berliquet was not firing on all cylinders. Now in bottle, the nose is still a bit wanting, with light brambly red fruit and earthy scents, just missing some cohesion and the intensity of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a gentle grip and a round texture. A smear of dark chocolate appears towards the focused finish that requires more substance. Not bad, though greater wines will emanate from this address down the line. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Beauséjour
Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse Saint-Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse is aged in around 60% new oak and made by Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt; Joséphine Duffau tweaked the blend when she took over in April of the following year. This was bottled at the end of May 2022. It has a perfumed nose, predominantly red fruit, sous-bois and a subtle Japanese nori scent. Quite "contained" at the moment, I can see this shutting down. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, dark cherries, bilberry and hints of black pepper and black olive (the latter is accentuated in the chateau bottle). Nicely balanced and persistent, this Saint-Émilion should age with class. Tasted twice with consistent notes. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)
St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend
The 2020 Branaire Ducru takes some time to unfurl in the glass and so I afford it 10 minutes to open with rigorous swirling. It repays patience with a tightly-knit, quite intense and disarmingly pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, loamy and light minty aromas. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins. As I remarked out of barrel, there is more weight on the back palate than older vintages, greater density and backbone. This has created a more satisfying Branaire Ducru with plenty of freshness on the finish. Bon vin. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Bellegrave
Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Bellegrave is well-defined and poised on the nose, blackberry and briary, hints of truffle unfolding with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a graphite-infused entry. Quite solid and structured, almost like a "mini-Lafleur", with a well-defined and persistent finish that has splendid mineralité. Very fine. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Bellefont-Belcier
Grand Cru Classe St. Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Bellefont-Belcier has quite a backward nose, rather introspective with black fruit, cedar and cigar box aromas. It's more dark than light. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, fleshy yet with well-judged acidity and pure, lightly spiced black fruit towards the harmonious finish. This conveys a sense of flow that I appreciate. One to watch. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
Château Beaumont
Cru Bourgeois Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
A good solid Haut-Médoc" is how I described the 2020 Beaumont when I tasted it from barrel. I've no need to alter that summation. A mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, this feels cohesive and detailed, not powerful yet it engages the senses. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. There is just a slight bitterness that lends tension, quite sharp with black cherry, orange rind and cedar notes towards the finish. It's not going to win the wine of the vintage but it's a…well, I told you at the beginning. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago
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The 2020 Canon, bottled in May 2022, has an exquisite bouquet that stops you in your tracks. Breathtaking delineation and focus, taut and linear, yet with ample fruit, this unabashedly exudes its propitious terroir. The palate is delectably creamy on the entry with fine salinity, vibrant and tensile, with a very persistent finish. This Canon ranks amongst the finest overseen by the team in recent years. Chapeau. Tasted twice with consistent notes. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — a year ago