2019 | Pinot Noir
Enderle & Moll; Liaison
Rhine Valley; Baden, Germany
(92-93; drink 2024-29, 2H decant)
Paired to duck confit & green lentils, a favorite meal for cats and humans in our humble abode.
After a mere ~13 month wait after receiving into the cellar, we're finally pulling a cork today. This really wants another year to unfurl for my palate. All the hallmarks of this wine are here; ripe black cherry, tree moss, dehydrated strawberry, damp cedar, past season rose, orange zest, slight VA but unobtrusive, medium finish, dried cranberry.
A very special/unique vintage for Liaison based on this commentary from the winemakers:
"Unfortunately, we had quite heavy frost in some of our best red sandstone vineyards last year and additional problems with hail and high fungus pressure, which is the reason why we ultimately decided to only bottle our "Basis", the "Liaison" and our "Muschelkalk" (shell limestone) this year. The barrels from the other top vineyards ended up in our "Liaison", which is ultimately reflected in the quality of this years "Liaison"..."
With the best of luck, this situation will not be repeated; so 2019 drink happily knowing it's a blend of the best grapes. — 2 years ago
This 14 has a bit of a story. I opened their 2005 last weekend, which was fantastic, I also opened their 2014 as an example w/ a friend to show how important aging is in Italy reds out of Tuscany & Piemonte. Also, how long it takes for the amount of new wood use Italians put to both to soften. The Italians hold them back in bottle sometimes two to three years or longer. The 05 last weekend was a 93-94. This after an hour & half decant, 90-91. In time, add one to two points.
For those who didn’t study their ass off to pass the Court of Master Sommeliers exam, the difference between Chianti & Chianti Classico is, Classico needs to come from a specific region in Chianti and needs to have an additional 10% of Sangiovese over regular Chianti.
2014 a good but not all-star vintage like 2010.
The 2014 still young. Showing dry; blackberries, black raspberries, dark cherries, some black plum, dry cranberries & strawberry hues. Oak barrel shavings, dry; leather, cedar, & dry tobacco, limestone & sandstone power, dry twig, dry river stone, dry top soil, slight candied & withering; red, dark, purple flowers framed in violets, nice acidity and a taut structured & tensioned but balanced, elegantly polished landing on dry earth that lasts nearly 90 seconds.
It is a good pair w/ the lasagna that has a really nice dark seasoning in it. An aged Nebbiolo might have worked better. From, The Adorable French Bakery at the Santa Cruz Farmers Market. No permanent location. — 4 months ago
Darker than the Muschelkalk with more weight. The M. is grown on Mussel based limestone. This is grown on red sandstone. Like the one used for the Cathedral in Freiburg. Much more approachable then the M. Dark cherries, turmeric, black tea, elderberry, hint black currant. I don’t know but - i just feel sorry for the many people who never had a chance to try these wines. The Muschelkalk is often limited to 1-2 barrels and the Buntsandstein to 3-4. The Liason their mid level wines are more broadly available and also very good. Will be at the winery in May for a barrel tasting. A ridiculous value for the money if you can find it. — 8 months ago
Another very elegant, balanced, complex, and distinctive Syrah from The Rocks district. Sultry color. The nose is extraordinary and so “The Rocks”: tobacco leaf, asparagus, fire pit, sandstone, with the ripe berry ooze fruit in the background. On the palate, it’s so soft and enveloping, with dark ripe berries shot-through with crushed smoky rocks. Though it’s not heavy or jammy, texturally it coats the palate and won’t leave. So good. What I love about this small and unique district is that it shows, almost more than any region I can name, the effect of geology on wine. Rhône varietals, especially Syrah, grown here are unlike anything else I’ve ever tasted. I just hope that global warming doesn’t wreck things here. — 2 years ago
Beautiful. Young Tempranillo is rough & rugged Wild West tumble weed. This is soft, ruby, lush falling onto minerality and dry brush.
The fruits are dryish to ripe, creamy and rich; blackberries, black raspberries, black plum into black plum pudding, dark cheries, blueberries hues on the long set, dry tobacco, sandalwood to cedar, dry herb-sage & thyme driven, limestone/sandstone minerals, black pepper, anise to black licorice, dark chocolate, caramel, mocha, moist, grey, volcanic clay, withering, dark red, flowers, round acidity, balance, softened tensioned, nicely structured and polish for days that lasts two-minutes.
Paired this with/ a dry rub tri-tip and a burgundy marinaded Cardiff Crack tri-tip. Both very different and enjoyable, but this was a slightly more enjoyable with the Cardiff Crack burgundy marinate.
Photos of; two of their different seasonal vinyards, cave entrance & large cellar vats. — 4 months ago
Excellent integration & evolution. Still ascending.
As one/me might have imagined, dry, sour dark, red, cherries, baked to dried rhubarb, dry blackberries, cedar to sandalwood, dry tobacco, lightly crushed rocks, limestone, dry leaves, sun tea, sandstone, dry florals that are dark, red with violets, excellent acidity and a medium tension, nicely balanced & beautifully knitted , smartly polished finish that lasts nearly two/minutes. — 5 months ago
Bought this recently at the Benchmark Bin Sale for $45. I’m unsure of its storage. But based on the bottle, cork, what’s in the glass…over delivering for $45. Decanted 2 hours. Having said that, the wine is sound. However, the wine appears cloudy…in the glass it visually almost seems a bit broken down. Seems earlier than I’d expect for an 07. Still delicious. Elegance, floral, balanced fruit & earth. Might have been better in proper storage. Think this bottle in good storage would hold another 3-5 yrs and then fade rather quickly.
The ripe, juicy, floral fruits are; blackberries, black raspberries, both plums but more plum, dark cherries, strawberries, boysenberries, raspberries, mixed mid berry cola/licorice, anise, almost sweet, dark, rich soil with dry leaves, dry herbaceousiness-sage, bay leaf, hints of thyme, semi-dry tobacco, sandalwood leaning into cedar, mid intensity dark spice-box, wafting nutmeg, cinnamon, vanillin, sandstone, steeped tea, touch of raisins, fig & dates, grilled meats, just a touch with of black pepper, dry brush, dry top soil, limestone marl, withering; dark, purple flowers framed in violets with a touch of lavender, excellent acidity with excellent integration & evolution, tall structure, well balanced fruit & earth with a long finish that last minutes falling onto dry, volcanic minerals.
96% Cabernet, 3% Merlot, 1% Cab Franc. — a year ago
A gift from a neighbor, this is a friendly and open red. Medium intensity nose shows red fruit (even a little strawberry), cigar box, and sandstone. Broad and flowing in the mouth. Tobacco leaf, plummy fruit, iodine. Ends on a lengthy savory note (the 20% Syrah signature?). — 2 years ago
David T
Independent Sommelier/Wine Educator
So, I am reposting this with realtime notes because I couldn’t a few weeks ago. I had it again tonight only with a Wagyu NY steak. While it went well with the steak, I think it shows even better on its own it’s that soft & elegant. I slightly over peppered my steak tonight and that could have contributed to that thought. I bought six more bottles last week for a ridiculous $39.99. For under $40, you’d be hard pressed to find a a better quality, drinkable Bordeaux at that pricepoint. I know if anyone researched the reviews on the bottling there would no scores 90 or above. Most or all I believe would be slightly below 90.
The thing that time & experience has taught me is trust in Clyde Beffa the owner of K&L Wine Merchants. He brings in older Bordeaux’s directly from Chateaux’s or Negotiants well after the fact as he has here and done very successfully for over 40 years. I have bought these kinds of older Bordeaux bottling’s to avoid drinking my wines that need cellaring too soon. Again, he has brought in a lesser Bordeaux regions and or Bordeaux producers that through long bottle evolution yielded magic after young critical reviews.
The nose reveals; older, musty funk on well aged, beautiful, ripe fruits of; soft blackberries, black raspberries, dark sweet cherry kirsch, stewy black plums, baked strawberries, dry rhubarb & cranberries. Baking soda, red fruit cola, steeped tea leaves, aged, dryish tobacco, well used leather, soft cedar to sandalwood, sandstone powder, mix of dry & fresh herbs, moist volcanic clay, limestone marl, dry river stone, well evolved and smoothed out lead pencil shavings, caramel hues, melted, warm, dark chocolate cake w/ frosting, classic older Bordeaux funk, withering to withering to dryish flowers that are dark & red.
The color isn’t even very brickish. Some barnyard, funk on well aged, beautiful, ripe fruits that are; soft blackberries, black raspberries, dark sweet cherry kirsch, stewy black plums, baked strawberries, dry rhubarb & cranberries. Baking soda, red fruit cola, steeped tea leaves, aged, dryish tobacco, well used leather, soft cedar to sandalwood, sandstone powder, mix of dry & fresh herbs, moist volcanic clay, limestone marl, dry river stone, well evolved classic, older, softened lead pencil shavings, caramel hues, melted, warm, dark chocolate cake w/ frosting, classic older Bordeaux funk, fresh to withering dryish flowers that are dark & red. Spring rainfall acidity with a well evolved, elegant, balanced, still nicely structured/tensioned, soft elegant finish that lasts two-minutes and falls on dry, well resolved tannins and perfect earthiness. Soft & complex as all get out! A steal at this price!
Photos of; the Chateau, stainless steel tanks, barrel room and Estate vineyards. — 3 months ago