Clos de la Bergerie Savennières Roche aux Moines Chenin Blanc

Not as expressive as I’d like - quiet but cute.

Deep Sauternes-like gold. Honey, straw, and ripe pomes on the nose. Echoed on the full-bodied palate which adds a sharp mineral streak from entry to the lengthy finish. Acidity is high, of course, and is needed to balance the effects of the 15.5% alcohol. Another winner from Nicolas Joly. A "thinking man's white" that should be comfortable at almost any table. From now through 2031.

Okay, so there are haters out there that don’t appreciate Joly’s approach to winemaking and question his vineyard practices. Something about his commitment to biodynamics and not doing his vineyards justice. Well, people are entitled their opinions and if those opinions keep his wines away from some people, that’s okay because it just means more for me. The 2014 Clos de la Bergerie is a wine of tremendous soul. For the uninitiated, it’s going to bend the mind. Visually, it pours an almost alarming, burnished gold color that is slightly turbid. On the nose and the palate, it’s a wonder. Bruised apples, marmalade, honeysuckle, lanolin…whoa. The acid makes the whole thing work so well. This is drinking really well right now but I expect these will drink well over the next 5-10 years…possibly more. These wines really need a crazy amount of air. Like…insane. I really wish I could drink them more often. Unfortunately, I’m not that privileged.

Tasted single-blind as I knew there was a Joly at the table. In the glass, the wine is a bright straw color with no signs of sediment or gas. Medium+ viscosity. On the nose, medium+ intensity with some VA, slightly oxidative and very complex. Rather unusual notes of tahini, peaches, marmalade, wild flowers, and fresh green herbs. Acid is sneaky high and the finish is super long. Alcohol is high but well hidden. A massive wine. I called Savennières from a recent vintage and called producer as this had all the hallmarks of a naturally made wine and a certain style reminiscent of Joly. I adore these wines.

Tired and one dimensional

Notes to come

Classic wine - Almost an orange with what I can presume is a ton of skin contact - Dried orange peel, apple sauce, ginger and saffron. Bone dry. 

Interesting. On the nose, something like a funky soft rind cheese like Vacherin. On the palate, tropical and stone fruit. There is also a wild note. I don’t taste Joly’s wines enough to latch on how they should be, but this was fun.

Holy Joly! A gorgeous, glossy golden hue that’s slightly cloudy in the natural, Joly way. A beautiful perfume of orange citrus and honeysuckle. Wild but not funky. Not even sure of that makes sense but I think you would get it once you smell it. On the palate it’s marmalade and heavily bruised apple...reminds me a lot of the 2013 I had earlier this year...but more powerful. The snappy acidity gives it a long, long finish. I adore these wines.

Brought from our cellar and shared with the group present for dinner; decanted six hours prior and served with the cheese course. Temp was just a tad below cellar-temp. Nobody can ever call Joly’s wines boring and this is no exception with almost red wine characteristics. Hazy golden orange-ish color. Marmalade, stone fruits, and leather. Absolutely wild and yet, utterly captivating. Finishes long. Killer