Scharzhofberger Kabinett Riesling

2007 Sharzhofberger Kabinett continues to drink brilliantly. Sharzhofberger chez Muller is untouchable.

Golden in color hints of tangerine, orange rind, soft and gorgeous

Beautiful light and bright. Lime, wet stone, peaches. Long and complex

AP #03 13

A somm-recommended bottle after being consulted on which vintage might be the most open of the Egon kabi’s, and right he was. The 16’ was singing! Very Egon with the notes cassis, salt/slate, and a touch of cream. Definitely sweeter and richer (less of a classic kabi) than the Haart Ohligsberg Alter Reben kabi, but still very energetic and quaffable. Plus, I can’t look pass how singular these wines are (see notes on the other mentioned wine on a little related rant).

Enjoyable, but definitely not the finest example of Egon’s Kabi for me. It’s the petrol character that irritated me - although not potent, it should never be present for a Riesling this young especially from Egon. I put it down to storage and transport once more. That aside, the 19’ Kabi was a crowd-pleaser. The fruit profile leaned more towards pears and peaches instead of citruses, and it had a little more sweetness and presence than usual, so the 17’ iteration was definitely a more food Kabi than aperitif Kabi. Fruity, racy, and especially saline on day two, it’s a banger of a wine with Cantonese food.

The “regular” 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett (bearing A.P. #3) leads with quince and peach accented by mint, cress, ginger and lemon, setting up an overall impression of coolness, but also of brightness, with stimulating cut and pungency analogous to that of the corresponding Braune Kupp. In the background is a greenhouse-like amalgam of flowers and foliage. The phenolic concentration here belies a vintage with relatively generous yields even as the efficacious acidity and levity defy preconceptions concerning a year marked by summer heat and drought. The multifaceted finish, transparent to wet stone underpinnings, is tongue-tinglingly vibrant. Here is a Riesling Kabinett to really grab and hold your attention even as it delivers consummate refreshment and a bit of thought-provoking intrigue to accompany its entertainment value. (David Schildknecht, Vinous, May 2022)

As usual beautifully balanced and all the boxes checked . A hint of sweetness and zesty acid guides you to the vintage. I will let my remaining bottles rest 3-4 years.


AP# 23 10

Auction. Intense botrytis in lean (by Egon standards) kabinett frame. Length and complexity for days. However, disjointed acidic finish that I’m hoping isn’t a telltale sign for how 2001s will end up. Serious class and unparalleled pedigree.